Club 80-90 Forums

Mine had abviously had work done it on by the previous owners as when I removed the cover plate is was gummed up with what looked like flue sealant. Not good. I also thought sealnt, possible gutter sealant, was a nice touch on the rocker covers too.

This is why it started as freshen up and ended up a full rebuild. I was worried what else I would find hiding.

About those bolts...the clutch cover bolts on most of the newer stuff is M7...with a 9mm head...very high grade bolts...worth a look?

max and caddy wrote:About those bolts...the clutch cover bolts on most of the newer stuff is M7...with a 9mm head...very high grade bolts...worth a look?

Yep worth a look, can you be more specific? example model perhaps?
got to be 12mm long or pretty close.

OK this is a test post. I am not seeing a lot of the pics posted, just the broken grey boxes on tapatalk. I have hundreds of rebuild pics I could post, but need to know they work. Might have to go back to using a wind up PC and the webview!
Can a couple of folk let me know if these display OK on tapatalk and web?

They look good on my steam powered PC, sorry I don't know what tapatalk is

yes they work for me.
What people need to see are the odd bits that the manuals don't show properly.

Working great on tapatalk too

Looking good on tapatalk:)

Re cam bolts, most of the aftermarket type 1 Aircooled cams have bolt on gears, the gear wheel is spot faced to allow clearance for the hex heads

weimarbus wrote:Re cam bolts, most of the aftermarket type 1 Aircooled cams have bolt on gears, the gear wheel is spot faced to allow clearance for the hex heads

Thanks, do they have clearance holes for the bolts/screws how is the cam is located dead centre in the gear?
a riveted cam in held central by the rivets into both parts being a tight fit, screws are only a tight fit in one part if clearance holes are in the other

check on vw heritage scat or engle cams, sorry can't do link, vw heritage, then beetles 38-80, then click on performance valve train, i think,

the three bolt cam wheel has a bore on the back to centre the cam and the bolt hole are slightly elongated to allow some degree of valve timing.

beetle cams will fit in the wbx case but you must use the correct oil pump to suit and they are ground for solid lifters only.

Silver bullet cams are designed for wbx , hydraulic lifters and heavy t25, would be a better bet if available I think

Thanks I will have a look ^^^


oil pump in today, gaskets just greased this time.

***worth noting this is not the official way to install an oil pump, you should use regulation thick gaskets and regulation nuts with a special seal on them at 2 quid each, copy this at your own risk ****
*****E D I T 18 months later this pump is still delivering great oil pressure****


P1030118 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1040676 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1040682 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1040685 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1040689 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

4-bolt cam "plugs into" the gear to centralize. The rivets only drive and locate tdc.

PS I thought that the yellow stuff was non-setting and for sealing coolant-side components? Stagg
Wellseal might be a better choice but its mucky old gear to use.
I now put three o-rings on the pumps, fiddly to install but it helps combat the variable (undersize) oil pump bodies.

Sent by Morse code from the bunker

silverbullet wrote:4-bolt cam "plugs into" the gear to centralize. The rivets only drive and locate tdc.

Sent by Morse code from the bunker

'locate TDC' yes good point must make a note when removing

So next question how do you get the old rivets out, drill head off one side and punch out?

The NOS DG cams VWH have are all zero size part number ( backed up by a phone call and Jawin89's experience)

Thinking about it no reason you can't cut a longer M7x1 screw down, only need four not going to take all day ...Aidan?

I would presume that the relocating of the cam gear would need to be exact to allow for the correct alignment with the crank gear timing mark

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