Club 80-90 Forums

I've ordered my con rod set, luckily heritage have got them on offer at the mo for £107 with the free delivery

I am interested in the 2.1 Idea, does the crank have a longer throw on these? I suppose barrels and pistons have to be changed together with camshaft?

I'd have to weigh up the costs against doing it with the EJ25

How does the economy compare 2.1 to the 1.9?

1983 Pop Top Westy 1.9DG

2.1 is longer stroke, 76mm vs. 69mm so it makes usefully more torque. Mileage is barely affected, because you don't have to thrash the bits off it...
There are two compression ratios, 9:1 MV or 10:1 DJ (allegedy 10.5;1 but I say otherwise in the real world, having cc'd the pistons!)
There are more than a few 2.1 running on the 1.9 DG carburettor and distributor, but if you want to get the best from it then you'll need the full efi setup.
You will need an efi fuel tank for the Subaru anyway, it has a bigger outlet to feed the injection fuel pump, which you will also need)

Cheers Sb

Invaluable info and Lots of food for thought, I'm going to rebuild as standard for now just to get me mobile. Then I will make my plan of attack in quest of greater power

1983 Pop Top Westy 1.9DG

Just as an after FYI.... The oil pump you fitted would've been a 68-71 type 1 oil pump...

I use this version on type 4 builds as it doesn't extend into the case as far as the later oil pumps...

So I suspect you've been a victim of a mislabelled product.

Now that's set my teeth grinding more than my bearings were ....

They have still got the pump listed on the site, however marked as 'out of stock' .....make your own minds up on that!

Only consolation is that it has flagged up the broken pick up tube/strainer mount

Cheers

Greg

1983 Pop Top Westy 1.9DG

Update.....

Having taken up my plight again with Heritage regarding the oil pump scenario

They have been extremely attentive and by no means evasive.

Going back a week ago....I had all my new bearings, together with my new con rods and set about rebuilding...To my dismay I had the wrong later model (1985 on) main bearings. Getting back onto Brickwerks, Michael kindly tried all over to source some for me. Heritage were out of stock until early/mid May.....And I got onto Gunzls who initially said they had them but it turned out they didn't! Hens teeth and all that!

Heritage got back to me to say they were on the case, there had been a mix up with boxing up of pumps by the supplier, something which is now in hand.
I explained the main bearing situation. And beside myself, I explained my pre booked trip to France was drawing near on 8th May.

As they hadn't the standard bearings in stock, as a gesture of good will (in addition to the previously supplied gasket set) they have just delivered through my door, a reground crankshaft complete with oversize 0.25 Mains , big ends and also refunded me the price of the con rods I'd purchased the previous week!

So OK, I shouldn't have been in this situation in the first place, but legally, did I have a provable case of internal damage caused by this? As it wasn't a new engine I think it would've been a bit of a grey area and would've cost an awful lot of time, stress and money for maybe not much, if any gain

I cannot speak highly enough of how they have been on this. Two years down the line I don't think they really needed to do anything...A lesson for all in customer care

Many thanks to Paul from heritage. Top job

1983 Pop Top Westy 1.9DG

Well done Heritage!

Sent from my Atari 7800

The saga continues......

Having rebuilt the DG with the new parts supplied from Heritage;

Crankshaft labelled as 0.25 reground
New set of oversize 0.25 Main bearings
New con rods with oversize 0.25 shells

Meticulously cleaned, all oil ways cleaned and blown through with compressed air, pick up filter cleaned spotless etc

I fitted it back in connected it up and cranked away without the plugs in till the oil light went out, plugs back in and it fired straight away.

There was a little bit of a rickety tapping so I thought the tappets may need a minute or two to fill.....minute or two later and still rickety and the oil light flickering!

I took out the oil pressure switch and connected my oil pressure gauge...and not a sausage, zero!

Blown away, I drained the fluids and again removed the engine. Had a piece of rag or gasket got accidently left in and blocked my pick up tube? or was it some sealant blocking an oilway?

I stripped her down again and couldn't find a single blockage or anything out of place. Dumbfounded I rebuilt the engine...more new gaskets, oil pump nuts and flywheel bolts. The engine was umphed back to the camper and when i was bolting the clutch assembly into position I was mortified to find the flywheel/crankshaft was moving up and down, what felt like two or three mm.

The DTI gauge came out and was bolted to the engine casing to get an accurate reading (please see pics) The gauge moved through 60 increments of 0.01 making it 0.6mm of up and down movement (end float is spot on within tolerance, and its not end float movement)

Have I again been supplied with a mis-labelled product, as in crankshaft ground to a greater degree than 0.25 ?

I think the rule of thumb is 0.001 thou per inch of crankshaft journal size? If that's correct that would make an approximate clearance of 0.002 thou of clearance and converting my reading at the flywheel 0.6mm to thou equates to 0.0236 thou

Can one of you knowledgeable fellows confirm my findings before I go down to the suppliers and pour petrol on myself :-0

Well....

1 of 2 things going on here...

1 the bearings are too big for your crank

Or

2 Your case has been previously line bored and the bearings are loose in the case

But really both are something you'd check when doing the assembly...

Either way something is amiss

Cheers Paul

I know the bearings fitted very very snug in the crank cases I think it's the other as in the bearings too big for the crank. It came clearly labelled up as did the bearings.

I just assembled everything with a good coating of oil and all seemed OK

The bearings were a very tight fit in the case

I'm going to have to strip her down again and get the micrometer out

Many thanks
Greg

Hi again

I've had the verniers on my original main bearings and measured the outer diameter

It is reading as 70.5 for one main and 65.5 on the smaller one of the others

I know verniers aren't as accurate as a proper micrometer but thats what its reading

I'm going to have a full strip down and measure the new mains with the same verniers and see what I get

I see the bearings in question should be 70mm and 65mm, maybe this is where the 0.6mm of play is coming from at the flywheel reading?

The engine itself is a factory vw recon unit with the circular arrow symbol around the number (or so I've been told)

If this is the case (no pun intended) are bearings to suit a line bored crankcase like hens teeth to get hold of ?

If so I think I may be snookered