Club 80-90 Forums

cheers aiden,

richard at rjes says as im using the turbo bellhousing with pull to release clutch (recommended i use that to handle the torque of the H6), it allready has a bracket included on it as slave cylinder is located differently.

i may go for the subaru splined input shaft rjes makes so i can use a full subaru clutch , will see how the budgets going.
http://www.rjes.com/html/subaru_input_shafts.html

going to pick up the gearbox tomorrow -

Evening Shaun.

It sounds like you are getting a 5 sp gearbox - I assume you have a 4sp now and want the fifth gear for the conversion?
Is there any way to utilise a Subaru gearbox in the project though?

I know your donor car is an auto, but if it was a manual vehicle, would that be feasible?

I have no idea either way myself, but was wondering what work would be required, and if it was possible, is it even cost effective over and above the cost of RJES parts you have sourced.

yeah subarugears in Australia do a kit to reverse a subaru gearbox for use in a rear engined vw

but costs are steep and there's a fair bit of extra work to get the gear linkage to work - may not be that hard but i figured i had enough on my plate and wanted a more bolt on experience. Perhaps in future i will go this route but wanted something working first...

see

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... s#p8104757
and
http://www.subarugears.com/

i already have a 5 speed box in my van but want to keep it there until i have a bolt in replacement for engine and gearbox built up and running in my shed. That way i can still use the van when i do the bulk of the work. I plan to sell my original 5 speed box and dh engine when i finish the job to recoup the costs of buying another box.

PS if the donor vehicle was manual i would have been more tempted by the subarugears route as the cost of bellhousing flywheel clutch etc mounts up

Ah I see - that makes sense.
I will let your thread continue now ( sorry to hijack it lol )

no worries - all welcome, im learning myself as i go

Some more pics - slow going at the moment as im taking my time labelling everything and learning the layout of all the components as i go.

First took off the throttle body as its supposed to let you get at the little cover to get at the torque converter bolts - it may do but it wasnt obvious where it was once i got it off.



decided it was best to take the manifold and alternator etc off too to allow better access and give me a better understanding of the layout.
was dissapointed to see the alternator seemed to be bolted to the powersteering and air con pumps and idler / tensioner connected to them, as i wanted to get rid of them as i have no need for either


however once i got them off

i could see that you could seperate the brackets that held the tensioner and idler from the pumps

so when i build it back up i can just have the brackets and the alternator , assuming i can get a shorter belt

can see the height of the manifold now they are off


the 3 pipes at the bottom of the manifold (circled red) are the fuel flow and return between injector rails and the evap purge canister line. The fuel flow and return from the tank come in at the top right of the manifold (from facing car - circled green) and work theyre way round to the other side and back to the same side. On a t25 the return is on the opposite side so i could loose one line and also loose the evap line as i have no charcoal canister. Not sure if its worth changing it though.

Removing the manifold was a bit more tricky , quite alot to disconnect first ,
2 pcv hoses? 1 to airbox before throttle body and one to plenem chamber after throttle body , not sure why 2?? (see pic orange)
fuel flow and return and fuel evap line (red)
2 idle air hoses , 1 for each head (green)
fuel rail connections on each head (although would have been easier to just unbolt the fuel rails and take them off with the manifold) (blue)
fuel rail protectors
various earth connections
loom connector for manifold
EGR pipe
probably some others i've forgotten


You can remove the engine without doing this and just lift it all out (after disconnecting torque converter and bellhousing cables hoses etc.) but it helped me learn where everything was and as i plan to clean it all up on the bench before reassembly it was worth it for me. Also now manifold is off i have excellent clearance for the torque converter bolts and less height to deal with if i drop engine below car . Probably not worth removing the throttle body if your removing the manifold though, just take them both off together.


next i need to decide above or below , hopefully get to it at the weekend ...

Take it out from the top as its only two engine mount bolts and it will lift strait off the subframe ,, I take all my Subaru engines out from the top as that way I can swap a whole engine around in about a hour ,, plus the subframe bolts are normally very tight and corroded so imo it far easier to do it the top way and just remove the two 14mm engine bolts

Wow, you do it in an hour, I'm well impressed !!! I think I need more practice .

How do you attach the engine to the crane?

there's a lifting eye on the bracket between alternator and ps pump at the front and there should be one at the rear of the engine maybe on a bracket for electrical connections

Alternator (& air con comp. ) bracket has the front lifting eye cast in.
Finger sized hole.

Shaundon wrote:Wow, you do it in an hour, I'm well impressed !!! I think I need more practice .

How do you attach the engine to the crane?

When you have swapped as many Subaru engines as I have you tend to get quick lol , I normally run my straps under the inlet manifold as iv never had any problems this way but as its been removed I normally bolt a bit of chain to go under at the front on the alternator bolts and use the gearbox inspection hole on the rear , my only concern with you using this is I'm not sure how much heavier your engine is compared to a fully closed deck ej20 (around the bore solid metal not open like yours) as they are the heaviest out of all the other Subaru engines and iv done it with them without a problem but not done it with one of yours yet

ordered an engine crane - 48 hour courier so hopefully be here soon

sadly the weather looks horrific again tomorrow which will stop play probably, would have done this in summer but want the van useable by then.

well all the bolts on the bellhousing / torque converter are out and on the engine mounts
electrical connections disconnected and labelled

torque converter bolts were real easy to remove and i think i could have done them without removing the manifold
bellhousing wasnt too bad either , got them all from above, only one that was a little difficult is the lower one on the drivers side which was awkward to get to because of steering column / brake servo

took off the o2 sensors and bagged them to make sure they dont get contaminated



only thing that proved hard is the exhaust bolts - wouldnt budge and i feel if i use any more force bolts will snap
tried to apply some heat but wind kept blowing out my torch - will try again when weather is better - waiting on the engine crane now anyway

reattached the alternator bracket to use the hook - the rear hook on the electrical connections bracket looks less robust but i assume it was designed for the purpose of lifting the engine? (see red circled areas)

What you doing with remnants of car?? only I need a few bits for my daily driver H6 in the same colour..

what bits do you need? - was gonna try selling anything i thought would go on ebay and just scrap the rest
shame really as it was a nice car