Club 80-90 Forums

metalmick8y wrote: I'd suggest everyone loosens and redoes their wheel nuts............
mm

I do it twice a year.

I managed to break every socket I had on mine so I bought an impact set, broke that as well. I had to resort to drilling the studs out to free them.

I'm surprised folk still use bolts on the fronts.

most I see do....................
Well...onwards
the old one died so

tsped the back up to get rid of back lighting ,

the lens is everybit as good as the old speedglass though the hat is bendier ,but that suits me so far very happy and a good price
now we crack on with a few welds

and

now its held i can give it a light disking .

then a coat of weldthru

ready for the runner assembly here.
drivers side now, the new top lip is in one piece shaped to fit,the transverse bits of steel are just to hold it down,i hang grips on the ends as well for weight and handiness

this gives a better idea

welded

...

thats now set the top lip to work from

new bottom lip added

ribs now shortened

new bit laid under and marked up

...

...

from under

...

so thats that bit for now,
i will run a disk over the under side as well to tidy it up prior to sealing etc
see these next picks,could you advise by number which holes we need and which not..
mm

metalmick8y wrote: see these next picks,could you advise by number which holes we need and which not..
mm

Will do Mike

Ian

better add them then

..

..

..

only you know your 'oles'
mm

1&2 3&4 stay (floor board bolts) there is another row of 2 pairs further to the rear
5 can go if it's easier for you
6 stays (table)
7 is the waterhose from the tank so stays
8 and one to the offside of it stay as they are to bolt the bed down.
The one to the right of the Eber is the sink waste hole which I can re-drill later if that suits you.
The rivnuts in the floor can go and be filled in please (I'll move the tank slightly forwards of where it was)

Cheers, Ian.

Remarkable stuff Mike. I don't often post on your threads, but I do watch them with great interest
You're correct about some of those pics of the huge layers of Iron Oxide built up They would make good posters or summat.
They look like some kind of rock formation !

Ta
now last area

assume 10 stays and 11 is filled in
as a short aside, i needed a 40amp rcbo yesterday, long story short, found the item in Ireland ,ordered yesterday at noon and it arrived here at 10am and very good price, its just another reason why the Irish impress me so much with their can do will do attitude,
cut some steel to make the lower part of the side(fridge) panel. rolled it out this aft but the folder i wanted to use was set for another job so will go down in the morning and finish making it , well a few of them actually as i have a neeeed
they all look a bit rough at this stage

..

soon tidy the welds though
that sort of remakes the floor and im happy enough with it

..

front end, the ribs have repaired good enough, if they were seen then more care would have been taken

..

so

to

next

soon as this is done then the external stuff can go over, main thing is to have the inners good
mm

metalmick8y wrote: assume 10 stays and 11 is filled in ?

Nah they can both go please ... and the small hole at the side of the large drop hole please. We'll move the leisure tank slightly forwards and remake the holes

Cheers, Ian.

well this is how they go together

..

you can just make out the slight curve

..

doing this helps with look and also prevents the distortion yiou may get with a simple flat panel,thy re made with 18g steel
mm

well,snip-on to the rescue

and i still needed a long bar..............
cleaned up around the mount, not done yet ,added a new lip to receive the rear wing,i said before that i fit these this way as you cant get under to mig it correctly.

ive done away with the rear grommet hole...the heavier vertical support ready

next the closure plate for this to now form a box


leaves a neat 3/4 hole for access to dynaxing etc followed by a grommet

these two items made and ready to weld in

like so

coming together as it should

now in its permanent position, so marking up

if you havent got any dividers, get a pair , boot sales for nice old ones or fleabay etc, they do make life simple, here i use them to scribe the limits of the under panel prior to marking and drilling, also note ive done two lines to offset the spots, much stronger this way

these need drilling to 8mm then chamfering. its time consuming , 70+ holes for this item

so a little more tidying up at the rear, then a few hours on the front jp, bits are made and we weld this side up

mm

Looking good Mike.

Ian

Well
16g.........

cut a bit more back to good depth

the larger hole

its a strange shape, not quite the same radius along all its length but

treated

ive had the door on a few times to check height and alignment then reset the fastners and piloted the holes as so

and

clamped up,

front, ...this is the point of no return as once welded its on for life

...

rear jp/arm closure plate

just tucked under the slider assembly

lower sill run

...

welds kept flush with the panal , this saves loads of grinding

so we now have an adjusted door that is a bit better fit

you said you hated following the sticky out bit mr m

it will soon be all flush , the structural aspect of this is done and im happy enough with it, so just the outer skinning stuff to do. there uis an issue with the slider though,

now when the doors open its ok and as you slide it shut then the door has to ride up to the latch (ive set it to be correct in the shut position), as it got so much slack in it, sorry not got a spare rhd L door one,
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metalmick8y wrote: now when the doors open its ok and as you slide it shut then the door has to ride up to the latch (ive set it to be correct in the shut position), as it got so much slack in it, sorry not got a spare rhd L door one,
mm

I have one knocking around here Mike Is it the headache in the pin/bush ? If so I'll get a new pair of bushes machined @werk.

Ian