Club 80-90 Forums

Thats my take on it but I'm no expert
my guess is case makes no difference, if you have a crank and cam gear that are a set keep them together

I have been using a different set of conrods to check clearances in the case as I have put new bolts in the ones I'm using for the rebuild. I had assumed that all conrods were the same width accross the big end journals but have discovered that this spare set has one that is a bit too big!!! No feeler gauge is going in there!!! Luckily the other set all seem to fit well within spec. Do they normally have to be machined to match the crank if you buy them new? Anyway It looks like my clearancing is ok now so I just need to wait for the DJ rings to be in stock at heritage and I'll be ready to start building.

Well I've got the bearings but am still waiting for heritage to have a set of 2.1 piston rings in stock!!! Does anyone have any recommendations as to what to lube up the engine bearings with during assembly? There seem to be many products out there but are any worth using rather than 20/50?

Well I was having a little fiddle in the shed today and decided to put the crank back together, here are a few pics. I also could then try the cam to make sure the backlash was ok. My old cam had a +3 gear on it and this reprofiled one has a +2 so I wasn't sure how it would be. As it happens it seems perfect. No cam lift out and no real lash that I can feel!!! I also cleaned up all the threads on the case bolts one last time with the dremmel and a wire brush. I have a whole set of stainless nuts to use on the bolts with stainless washers for the rebuild and also some brass nuts for the replacement stainless studs so we don't get any galling. Next step is the case will be painted Blue to stop it oxidising with high temperature engine enamel.

http://s1275.photobucket.com/user/123-j ... v.jpg.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Get some 2.1 rings from VWBusshop aka Peter Gunzl. He has Mahle sets in stock.

http://www.vwbusshop.de/epages/GuenzlCl ... 025198151A" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks silverbullet. I was having difficulty finding an engine set , Brikwerks only have single piston sets.

Quick question, what circlip pliers do you use for the crank?

I used a cheapo set with the 90 degrees ends ground flat roughly to hold open the nasty circlip. I hold it open and let it go on the first bit of diameter increase on the crank just past the bearing face and then tap it into the groove with a punch. 1.99 from a budget store and modified on the grinder.

123-jn wrote:I used a cheapo set with the 90 degrees ends ground flat roughly to hold open the nasty circlip. I hold it open and let it go on the first bit of diameter increase on the crank just past the bearing face and then tap it into the groove with a punch. 1.99 from a budget store and modified on the grinder.

mmm thats what I was afraid you would say
There must be a proper tool for the job ?

Hello,

Non bearing scratching awful circlip pliers..

Early on here.. 1'30"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxykQb957xU" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

These are great.. well worth investing.. say Hi to Greg Friedman from me..

Cordialement,

sarran1955 wrote:Hello,

Non bearing scratching awful circlip pliers..

Early on here.. 1'30"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxykQb957xU" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

These are great.. well worth investing.. say Hi to Greg Friedman from me..

Cordialement,

ok so I got reverse opening circlip pliers from the states very reasonable but not the make?
video is not good enough to read it?

Having only had to do this twice I went the home made cheapo route and it worked well I suppose if like the knowledgable guy in the video I built a few engines I would buy a set!!!! I tried my home made pliers out a good few times and made sure I had shaped them perfectly before trying them out over that bearing surface. I suppose you could protect it with some thick compressed cardboard to be safe?
Just Received a nice Shadek oil pump from ebay not too pricey!!
Now Does anyone know the answer to this conundrum!!!

Two oil pump gaskets one is thicker and has a narrow 4 mm rim around it, the other very thin is about 8-9mm wide and has 4 small holes which line up with the groove on the surface. I suppose the thicker one is the one that goes under the pump on the block face. This leaves the thinner one on the front face under the plate. So why does this front one overlap the groove and since it does what are those 4 holes in the gasket for. What a strange thing. Anyone know why?

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[img]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016021 ... 600b89.jpg[/img]

Item 2
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Item 5
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That's confirmation that I was right Thanks, still at a loss to explain the need for the gasket to overlap the circular groove?