Club 80-90 Forums

here's how it ran before, this was probably a week/week and half before the meltdown.

http://vid1291.photobucket.com/albums/b ... wsrl02.mp4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Anyone know an alternative source of telescopic pushrod tube that isnt mega bucks? Just in case i need to inspect them all, which i should.

PeeSG wrote:here's how it ran before, this was probably a week/week and half before the meltdown.

http://vid1291.photobucket.com/albums/b ... wsrl02.mp4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Jeez what a racket !
@ itchyfeet I think you're on to something
Solid lifter rod: Aluminum with steel tips (271mm long) Solid lifter pushrod: 12mm dia
hydraulic pushrod, 10mm thick, Hydraulic rod 1-piece steel (262mm long)

I think this is the problem

I will check the diameters of the rods too.

kevtherev wrote: @ itchyfeet I think you're on to something
Solid lifter rod: Aluminum with steel tips (271mm long) Solid lifter pushrod: 12mm dia
hydraulic pushrod, 10mm thick, Hydraulic rod 1-piece steel (262mm long)

That's odd - that's definitely what it says in Ratwell, but the rods that I pulled from the 2.1 with hydraulic lifters that I'm rebuilding, and the replacements I bought for some that were bent, are all 272mm long, steel throughout. And they measure closer to 9mm diameter too.

VWHeritage list them as 272mm too.

kevtherev wrote:

silverbullet wrote:Bodged up. I would say that the Haynes " Book of Lies" 1.5 turns preload is excessive, 0.5 is quite sufficient. If the valves receed more than this the engine is rapidly dying anyway.

I set mine to 1.5 turns

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/HydraulicLifters.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Read, understood and digested.

I will adopt 1.5 turns as standard practice immediately, although I wont be using std camshafts anymore, so all the valve geometry will be checked/shimmed etc anyway.

Interestingly this is the same as the recommended hyd. tappet check for the all-alloy Rover V8 iirc. That required circa 1/16" or about 0.060" aka 1.5mm.

@ itchyfeet

There is no @ before my name, to me thats like calling me Mrs itchyfeet

CJH wrote:

kevtherev wrote: @ itchyfeet I think you're on to something
Solid lifter rod: Aluminum with steel tips (271mm long) Solid lifter pushrod: 12mm dia
hydraulic pushrod, 10mm thick, Hydraulic rod 1-piece steel (262mm long)

That's odd - that's definitely what it says in Ratwell, but the rods that I pulled from the 2.1 with hydraulic lifters that I'm rebuilding, and the replacements I bought for some that were bent, are all 272mm long, steel throughout. And they measure closer to 9mm diameter too.

VWHeritage list them as 272mm too.

Yes, perhaps the Ratwell figures are for the type 4 engine.
My point was to show possible differences in rods and lifters creating huge gaps if they are mismatched.
Unless the stem has been hammered down this might be the cause.

Wouldnt the head of the valve stem look like a mushroom? Unless the rocker is bent?

silverbullet wrote:Wouldnt the head of the valve stem look like a mushroom? Unless the rocker is bent?

True it would show something.
So without being there it must be mismatched components

I wonder if its eaten the cam lobes? They are cheese once the case hardening has gone through.

going to need new followers all round, new push rods all round and telescopic tubes all round. Cam looks ok.

Wanted to ask @kevtherev or anyone else, if these are a universal fit???

http://www.retrodubs.co.uk/epages/Store ... AC1094109A" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I'm not sure, but I do know that some aicooled teles do not fit.
The ones from Brickwerks do fit.
(CU & WBX)

Whats the general concensus on installing used hydraulic tappets? I have a friend with a set of 8 for sale and he only wants a score for them. It would save a load of money. But is it a go or no go situation?