Club 80-90 Forums

I managed to get the drums off without removing the hub nut that was all surprisingly easy. The issue i forsee is removing all the springs is going to be a right faff with the hub in place, this is why i assumed i should remove the hub nut. Sorry for my lack of knolledge im trying my best honest

Other than it potentially being a bit pointless was it a bad move to take the hubnut off?

Thanks for your patience!!!

As long as you have a torque wrench capable of such high figures no it's not a problem.

Will report back tomorrow when i will undoubtidly run in to more head scratching!

Take pics as you go so you know how springs go back.

Watch the top return springs..they can be fitted upside down which interferes with the adjuster mechanism.

Martin

Yerr i think i read that on the wiki. Im at the stage to but all the new parts back on now. i took lots of pics so im hoping it wont be too hard .... fingers crossed

Decided what the heck - doing mine next week. Can't remember the last time I did a proper overhaul on rears but I do remember the shoe retainers were shot and I had to use a flat washer and thin bolt instead of a pin. Held up for several years anyway.

Won't rush it though - will spray drums this time to minimise corrosion for a while and replace the lot including cylinders. Be nice to be on firm brakes again and MOT guy is always pleased to see shiney stuff underneath. He loves old vehicles and is always helpful with mine. Joy to MOT to be honest. I even steam clean it underneath so he can really prod around. He says he sees cars in a terrible state that are half the age of my camper. I don't doubt it.

Lot of panels need doing now but at least it drives well and will stop sharp.

CovKid wrote:Decided what the heck - doing mine next week. Can't remember the last time I did a proper overhaul on rears but I do remember the shoe retainers were shot and I had to use a flat washer and thin bolt instead of a pin. Held up for several years anyway.

Won't rush it though - will spray drums this time to minimise corrosion for a while and replace the lot including cylinders. Be nice to be on firm brakes again and MOT guy is always pleased to see shiney stuff underneath. He loves old vehicles and is always helpful with mine. Joy to MOT to be honest. I even steam clean it underneath so he can really prod around. He says he sees cars in a terrible state that are half the age of my camper. I don't doubt it.

Lot of panels need doing now but at least it drives well and will stop sharp.

Have you seen the price of those shoe retainers?? The adjusters are ridiculous to purchase as well.

£10 for the bagful with all springs for both drums. Steep for what it is, but I guess you don't need new all that often. You couldn't get them at all for many years - other than VW. The dished washers on the pins tend to rust out so this evening been spraying those to extend their lifespan a bit. Should make fitting more pleasant.

The starwheel adjusters are (I believe) identical to those fitted to bugs. I had a load in a box from when I worked fulltime on Volkswagens. They were cheap as chips then. Never found the auto-adjust much good - no matter how much you clean them up and grease them.

CovKid wrote:£10 for the bagful with all springs for both drums. Steep for what it is, but I guess you don't need new all that often. You couldn't get them at all for many years - other than VW. The dished washers on the pins tend to rust out so this evening been spraying those to extend their lifespan a bit. Should make fitting more pleasant.

The starwheel adjusters are (I believe) identical to those fitted to bugs. I had a load in a box from when I worked fulltime on Volkswagens. They were cheap as chips then. Never found the auto-adjust much good - no matter how much you clean them up and grease them.

Bugger, I've been looking in the wrong places. Ma tenner isn't bad seeing as how they last a few years. Seen the adjusters for sale on eBay, nearly spat my tea!

Ah yes £47. Yes sorry, they're not same as bugs. Mind you, I've never had one go, unless the teeth are broken? Definately pays to copperslip the threads on those. Saves heartache later.

To be honest if I was faced with replacing those, I'd get them made - be cheaper.

I agree, copperslip the lot. I did consider replacing everything when I did my rears, binned that idea when I saw the cost of the adjusters. Nowt wrong with mine, not now anyway.

Hi guys, sorry for this painfully slow process...
Iv got the new cylinder shoes and springs in but i just wanted to check with you guys before i go any thurther that they are all in the right places. I havent put the springs in that hold the shoes in toward the back plate as want to make sure the rest is good first. Iv had a good look and i think im on the right lines im just not 100% sure that the ajuster is in the right way around. But yeah if someone could have a quick look and point out any mistakes that would be ace.

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah1 ... ku6bc3.jpg

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah1 ... 1moojf.jpg

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah1 ... ngnynt.jpg

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah1 ... buuq3l.jpg

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah1 ... bklhfc.jpg

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah1 ... nyl0e2.jpg

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah1 ... v2l8qx.jpg

Thanks again guys youre great!

CovKid wrote: - will spray drums this time to minimise corrosion for a while

Do you need to use a special high temperature paint for this?

I used rustoleum as that's what I had to hand. One side is still fine but the other is less so but this MAY be because I cooked it by having the adjuster one click to much as mentioned in a previous post. Absolutely baking it was, undone 1 click and all is fine again. Grrr. I wonder how much grease is left in there??