Club 80-90 Forums

Cool, thanks. Was going to ask about the drill too, but that answers it
Cheers

Or if you're a cheapskate like me buy some 8mm HSS drills and grind them yourself.
http://wiki.retro-rides.org/How%20to%20 ... drill.ashx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

That's why your an Irish property magnate,,,,hehe
As for the drill ,make model makes no odds but you need to be able to run slower is allthink of it this way,it can only vit at a certain rate dependant on pressure aplied and speed its turning,too fast ortoo little pressure and it rubs the work area ,gets hot and blunt ,sane applies to and normal drill bit I will get hundred of cuts out if a wurth
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Well we start by making the front of the inner sill, this has to be near as dam it right as all the other parts fix toi it and errors would be compounded (yes learnt the hard way years ago)

the raised part is to sit over the outrigger so it presents a flat edge for the susequent panals
these are the main bits, the jp i bought in as they are available all over and too cheap to mess with

this is the small extention to the outrigger, made in same gauge steel as a replica, this part is easier to fit now and doing it this way is far easier than trying to unpick the old part

this is how they fit together, its a case of knowing which order to add parts and still retaining the ability to weld them as built

and compared to the OE

they are the same just my hand had a wobble....
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Well,spotted the floor to inner sill

quick sand off

front bit seamed up

here you see the lips of the runner, these weld to the inside of the lower B post so i need to fabricate this next and spot through, there is still a touch more to remove to the left of the pen, when thats done i will add the vertical support for the jp followed by the jp and then the closure which is also the fwd part of the outrigger, hard part is getting stuff in the right order.

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well.going to the rear i add a lip here in 14g as its near impossible to get a decent migging under any other way so this gives a good base to fix the wing to

this is the inner support in place that carries the rear of the slider track and generally ties it all in

osf belt anchorage

ditto

new metal going in here


here you can see where the runner will be spotted through to the added inner support

this shows the new lip added and the new steel to close the jp and arm mount


i will post before i loose it

this area marked is swaged out to fit over the previously fitted reinforcing plate

next we make the lower C post and seal channel, most of this is not seen, the bulk is covered by the rear wing in fact so really the seal channel isd the only part you need to get right and nice , the rest you can do as i do and make near enough so to speak

tried in place


this part fits good enough

now the two joined ,this is the inner side

outer side

lots of curves, they are a bit tricky to make

in place


as you can gather it has to be fitted prior to the sill track etc as its the only real way to secure it how i think it should be as will become clearer later

nearly there

just the closing lip with the 1mm return to hold the seal and then im happy with this small area
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As always - stunning workmanship!
You take fabrication almost to art.

Titus A Duxass wrote:As always - stunning workmanship!
You take fabrication almost to art.

Agreed. These threads always make it look so damn easy, that it's easy to forget exactly HOW good this workmanship is.

AdrianC wrote:

Titus A Duxass wrote:As always - stunning workmanship!
You take fabrication almost to art.

Agreed. These threads always make it look so damn easy, that it's easy to forget exactly HOW good this workmanship is.

+1 I read these threads and feel a) Jealous b) inspired/motivated c) even more jealous.

If you really get inspired and motivated then that does it for me ta
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metalmick8y wrote:If you really get inspired and motivated then that does it for me ta

I just find more reasons to put off trying, since I know I could never do it anywhere near so well...

(Actually, that's not quite true - and this year WILL be the year I teach myself to fabricate and weld)

ah but its relative. ive worked with and still use guys that have skills with this stuff that are well beyond me at present, its good and keeps ypou striving...
so back to

tacked in place, metal expands as it warms and you can use this to advantage to either form curves or in this case to tighten the join and hence the panel gains some more rigidity
now seamed

and a disc run over it

not perfect but good enough, main thing is full penetration

this area now remade


and with a run over with the disc

not much is seen but it may help if/when future repairs are done that it should come apart/unpick the samme as oe. also it gives a very nice base to fix new panels to and as oe are going on then its worth that extra bit of effort
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As previous people have said, your work is stunning. You answered a post of mine last week about me taking my bumpers off and putting short ones on and you where right, the lower front panel has the dreaded rust. Just wish I could weld at all, or you lived closer lol. Sometimes I think I have made a mistake buying a t25 , especially with my limited skills, but reading your posts gives me some hope and encouragement. Right where's my vactan.

Nah,just do what you can and if needs then stick the big bumps back on ,,or bond a new lower in place if you must ,fitting is easy it the removal that is mote time consuming,oh and post up pickies of what you found as it will help others as well as yourself as the xstall ball is always away lol