Club 80-90 Forums

Take great care with that local garage.

Someone not familiar with WBX foibles could shear a manifold stud (common thing to happen - LOTS of heat from a gas welder helps hugely) then they think "extract broken stud", then if the have to drill and Helicoil, they drill in too far, into the water jacket and that is serious Also depending on what stud breaks, getting at it to repair can be a bitch of a job, could be engine out This is exactly why VW-Speed-Shop stopped their fitting service ! I don't want to worry you unnecessarily, but forewarned is forearmed as they say.

ghost123uk wrote:Take great care with that local garage.

Someone not familiar with WBX foibles could shear a manifold stud (common thing to happen - LOTS of heat from a gas welder helps hugely) then they think "extract broken stud", then if the have to drill and Helicoil, they drill in too far, into the water jacket and that is serious Also depending on what stud breaks, getting at it to repair can be a bitch of a job, could be engine out This is exactly why VW-Speed-Shop stopped their fitting service ! I don't want to worry you unnecessarily, but forewarned is forearmed as they say.

oh bugger!! now i am worried!!

chriscburgess wrote: oh bugger!! now i am worried!!

Most "proper" mechanics will be able to sort it out, just have a chat with him beforhand as its a pretty common problem when changing.

I had a Speedshop system fitted to my wbx last week, I soaked the bolts in Plus Gas (not WD40) every night for a week but one of the studs still snapped but the mechanic was prepared and sorted without to much trouble.

Jez

If you don't shear a bolt under a 20-30 year old vehicle at some time it'd be a miracle

Question for those that know about such things = what would be the best nuts to use to help prevent them seizing up in future ?

I seem to remember Dagenham Dustbins used to use brassy / orangey looking nuts on the exhaust manifolds.

jeffdub wrote:I've checked the system over and the rest of the pipes look to be in good condition so ive decided to buy a stainless steel silencer , had a look around and found this ,
http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Sil ... tartPage=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Just ordered mine from them

ghost123uk wrote:Question for those that know about such things = what would be the best nuts to use to help prevent them seizing up in future ?

I seem to remember Dagenham Dustbins used to use brassy / orangey looking nuts on the exhaust manifolds.

Copper nuts, got mine off the bay for about 15 pence each. They feel heavy in the hand so you know they're copper.

Copper nuts would strip - you may as well use a lump of cheese! I should think that you mean copper coated? (Which is what I use as it keeps the corrosion at bay for a while longer)

New VW Heritage one currently on eBay at the moment - cheaper as it has a little dent in it:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390798910324? ... 1423.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Oldiebut goodie wrote:Copper nuts would strip - you may as well use a lump of cheese! I should think that you mean copper coated? (Which is what I use as it keeps the corrosion at bay for a while longer)

Right you are sir. Stainless steel with a heavy copper plating. Shouldered nuts and the last few threads are crimped to act as a locking nut. Brass ones are also available, in fact aren't you a 'boatie'? Would a chandlers sell such nuts?

Brass really isn't strong enough - the threads will strip very easily. I used to use them many years ago before the copper coated ones were available but would often strip them doing them up that last little bit. The threads on them used to get messed up when you took them off a corroded stud also rendering them a one use nut! Double length ones were about which were a little better.
IMHO the copper coated are the best option as 304 stainless nuts on 304 stainless threads has its own problems (use 304 stainless for one and 316 stainless for the other so that there are dissimilar metals and you will lessen the jamming of the threads that occurs - it is a bit like friction welding but you can seize them by hand!)
Found a short piece on the seizing -http://www.anzor.com.au/blog/the-gall-o ... g-threads/