Club 80-90 Forums

Great pics

Well here are a few more photos but some of the captions wont load on sorry.
http://s1275.photobucket.com/user/123-j ... ebuild%203" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

New Piston rings now have an end gap of 0.3 compared to 0.9 with the old ones. I'm still waiting for the shells for the crank. As you can see the new Engl Cam has arrived with a new gear, the oil pump as with most aftermarket Cams has to be an early T1 type but heavy duty. Slight oops with the brass distributor drive gear so I've ordered one of them. The crank gear got slightly damaged by the puller but I reckon it's ok. The Gasket set came with 2x20ml tubes of dirko-s so I'm hoping that's enough. I've ordered the mains and big ends and new thrusts, once they arrive it's time to start the rebuild.

I've been looking for the distributor thrust washers today but I cant find them anywhere!!! Can you believe that its going to cost £9.00 to get two little washers and have them sent from VW heritage!!! Daylight robbery that's lighter than a first class letter!!! I had the dizzy upside down on the bench and loads of dirty oil came dripping out of the vacuum unit? Is this a problem? Perhaps the advance will be better now!!! (kidding it was ok before) I cleaned up the face of the gearbox bellhousing today and noticed that one of the bolt holes, lower left has a crack right through it front to back horizontally. It is full of oil and grease so I suspect it's been there a long time. I'm hoping that with a big washer under the nut it shouldn't be too big an issue. The new dizzy drive cog has arrived all shiney and new, mains and big end should be here on Monday together with new thrusts.

Well here is some more engine porn. I took a few photos as the engine went back together.
http://s1275.photobucket.com/user/123-j ... ebuild%205" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Only one slight error, some silly fool who shall remain nameless put the right hand head on and forgot to put the tappets in!!! Never mind mended now!!! The distributor drive was a pain in the backside. New thrust washers were too large in diameter and fouled the drive cog !!! But some attention with the grinding wheel sorted that out only to find that if I put the drive in as it shows in Haynes my distributor is about 45 degrees too far to the right leaving the vacuum advance too close to the fuel pump so I have turned it 1 tooth back as a compromise. The end float on the crankshaft is suprising as only one shim was fitted when I took it apart, no major machining has been done so end float should be as it was roughly. Well its 0.56mm, so I needed 0.46 of shims. Looking at all the sites I could have various sizes but none that would make 0.46. The best I can find is another 0.40 reducing the endfloat to 0.16 which is right at the top end of acceptable 0.01 too big. If instead I went for 0.30 x3 I would have endfloat of 0.06 which is 0.01 too small. So 0.16 it will be. It is an auto so the clutch wont be pressing against the flywheel so hopefully it will be ok. Now I need to wait for the loan of a hoist and we will see if I did it right!!

Fingers crossed for you

I'm sure you have done this before but remember it will probably smoke for quite a while

Thank you I shall need it!!! I have done this before but never with and engine so well designed to leak at almost every joint!!! I've just flushed the RAD it seemed rather cleaner than I expected.

Hello,

123-jn wrote:
only to find that if I put the drive in as it shows in Haynes my distributor is about 45 degrees too far to the right leaving the vacuum advance too close to the fuel pump so I have turned it 1 tooth back as a compromise.

Put the distributor drive in correctly...

You can always turn the dizzy body to a convenient point.. point the 'finger' at Nr 1 at TDC..and line up (at 90 or 180 or 270 degs) with the notch in the dizzy body rim..

This is now nr 1 plug.. etc etc..

This is what I've done for running the 'Oops ' engine using a SVDA dizzy out of the spares box..

Good photos..

Cordialement,

Thanks Sarran I didn't think of it like that I was hung up, on having the notch at number 1. I did make some marks before taking it off and how it is at the moment is how it was so I reckon I'm not the first to make the error!!!

http://s1275.photobucket.com/user/123-j ... ebuild%206" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

A few more pics of the engine going back in, I was so impressed with my fence post and lorry strap hoist that I forgot to take a picture sorry. It worked a TREAT.
Apart from a previously good thread on the front exhaust giving up and another helicoil to be inserted it's looking good. I have replaced a lot of the nuts and bolts with new stainless ones and have painted the tinware. I do have a slight problem with the tappets as they have mostly drained down and I cant set the preload. I need to try to set them with a tiny clearance so that they pump up with oil pressure as I turn her over and so that the engine may start!! I'll have to set the preload after a quick run to wear in the rings and solid up the tappets!! Very nervous times. will it or wont it (leak something somewhere)

Very shiny

Last time I had the engine out I forgot to tighten a hose clip
Surprisingly it barely leaked and I was lucky to find it after taking it for a long drive
Worth going over them all one last time

Hello,

123-jn wrote:http://s1275.photobucket.com/user/123-j ... ebuild%206

A few more pics of the engine going back in, I was so impressed with my fence post and lorry strap hoist that I forgot to take a picture sorry. It worked a TREAT.
Apart from a previously good thread on the front exhaust giving up and another helicoil to be inserted it's looking good. I have replaced a lot of the nuts and bolts with new stainless ones and have painted the tinware. I do have a slight problem with the tappets as they have mostly drained down and I cant set the preload. I need to try to set them with a tiny clearance so that they pump up with oil pressure as I turn her over and so that the engine may start!! I'll have to set the preload after a quick run to wear in the rings and solid up the tappets!! Very nervous times. will it or wont it (leak something somewhere)

You will best be doing the tappets 3 times..

With the best will in the world you will not hit 'Spot on' first time..

Do the tappets contact + 1 turn to start..

The engine will rattle 'like a barrel of nails' on start up..

Just concentrate on getting it to run.. and restart..

Then do the valve timing again...

OOh look... its all changed....

Re time your ignition..

Then set carb...


Run for a while..

Let it go cold.. and re do the valve timing.. if it hasn’t changed.. then its ok.. if not repeat the above process..


Have fun....

Cordialement..

Thanks Sarran, tomorrow is D-Day!! fingers crossed.

It all looks to be a very nice and tidy job. I hope it all goes well for you

well after a brief spin over to get some oil pressure I popped the plugs in and she started straight up first compression. WOW!!! sounded like someone rattling chains though. All the tappets bar one had bled down. checked for leaks (none at this point , topped up water and oil) . I took her for a spin about 3 miles , she has more oomph than before. After I had done about 2.5 miles all tappets except one had pumped up, and there was just the sound of one playing up!!! On return I checked again for leaks and oh ****** there was one. Pink water from the elbow on the cylinder 2 end of the head that feeds into the waterpump. Its plastic and it has cracked!!! Now I need to make a metal replacement as I am certainly not paying £54.00 for one from heritage!!! I've bunged it up with gunge for now while I get the tappets right.
Oil and water seem to have stayed separate and compression feels good!!!

Excellent news (except for the leaky elbow!)

You must be very pleased/relieved!!

Cheers,

Alex