Club 80-90 Forums

some pics
my spare

My new wheels


hole in Trailing arm




after some paint

So this afternoon the weather dried up so i managed to do some work this eve.
Hub nut released.

Drum off



Brake shoes off




Half of the backing plate, Serviceable?

Other half, how do i remove the handbrake cable from it?

Hub freed, I used a wire brush on my angle grinder on the bolts first then a hammer, to clean off all the rust then loads of penetrating oil. Then i hammered a 22mm 6pt socket on and eased each one about 1/4 then more oil then repeat working around. Using a 600mm breaker bad was essential. Was worried i had sheered one but i didnt! happy days. Will be refitting with copper grease for sure!

and covered up for the night


The backing plate what totally rusted, i managed to split it in half so i didnt need to mess with the wheel cylinder today. i can drain and fill in the same day which i prefer to do.

Looks like the shoes need to be replaced as they are low. best to replace both sides at the same time?
also fitting kits would be needed. And also wheel bearing needs to be replaced. So quite a pricey shopping list especially considering i have spent loads on tools recently.

Also the hub came away from the stub axle with NO effort. maybe this is why there was bearing play!? hub nuts not tight enough!?

Ben

Tomorrow i'm going to take the trailing arm off, hopefully it will go to plan.
So here is my shopping list to place on sunday night.
CV boot kit x4
Brake shoes
Brake shoe fitting kit
Brake back plate OEM
Locating pin
Speedo Cable
Suspension bush + bolts x 2
I need the four bolts that hold the hub to the trailing arm, where can i get these, brickwerks don't have them listed.

Am planning on painting the trailing arm and hub, red oxide then black hammerite? and for the drum i have some red caliper paint, will this do? im presuming it needs to be temperture rated.

Ben

Have you tried vw heritage for the bolts.

or perish the thought but .............................vw
mm

Yeah found them on vwheritage. was hoping to just place the one order. but no matter.
also im presuming the handbrake cable is just push fitted into the back plate?
Ben

it is

ok ill try again later its well and truely rusted onto the backing plate but im sure i can get it off. Just wanted to check that it wasnt a screw fit etc.

Day from hell today.
Started early, and seemed to get not much done.
All bolts from CV to output shaft were rounded off. managed to get two loosened with mole grips. but didnt work on the others to i raced up to local shop to get shop better ones knoppix brand aparently very good. these didnt do any better. SO i then tried hammering in spline bits worked on all but two so i tried hammering in torx bit. That worked on one. The last on i tried everything i could think of. But had to resort to the angle grinder. worked a treat. That all took about 3 hours! Then I removed the trailing arm front bolt was easy inside one had to be grinded off. About another 2-2hours. Then i just wire brushed the trailing arm and bearing case up a bit and dropped them down to the friendly mechanic. He is going to weld up the trailing arm and remove the bushes and the last bearing.
Now all i need to do is order the bearing etc
BIg Brickwerks order soon to be placed.
Didnt take many photos today.
Ben

Regarding welders keep an eye out for a used Clarke Turbo MIG, gas one. Mine has done years of service and is robust. Look for local gas suppliers who can help keep you out of the BOC rental thing.

I think gas is worth it, though you can use CO2 (freindly pub landlard) rather then CO2-Argon, yeah the penetrations not so good and the weld can be a bit more spattery but you don't want penetration on thin rusty body work. You'll need a specific CO2 regulator. Google for mig-welding.co.uk great info on here.

People looking for 46mm sockets, check you local Aircool VW Club, they'll have one and a lot of people weld the socket to breaker bar or use a torque converter on a shorter bar.

I feel your pain on the bolts, often welding another bolt on helps. Something to turn and the heat works wanders as well.

Sounds like you're making some good progress.

Remove the hub nut and the bolts on the gearbox end and pull the whole drive shaft and stub axle out. Angle grind off the bolts then you can desperate the CV from stub axle. Remove the remains of the bolts with molegrips. Job done.

Thanks for the info guys.
Just a small update. Parts arrived today.
Am planning on painting the Drive shafts and bearing carrier over the next couple days.
I do however have a small problem i cant seem to get the CV boot away from the CV! any tips? I have it siaking in penetrating fluid at the moment. The CV is off the drive shaft.
Hoping to have a full day working on the van on Thursday. so will do a big update then with pics!
Ben

Just noticed that the boot kits don't come with the locking washers! Why? surely if your going to replace the bolts you would replace the washers! SO that's great yet another order i need to place now.
Also VWheritage only had 3 of the bolts that hold the bearing carrier to the trailing arm! no email telling me nothing just 3 bolts in the delivery and when asked they tell me probably back in stock 2nd week of April.
I need to find the VW version of James Sherlock (BMW motorbike specialist) always has stuff in stock and if you order something that would probably need another part he will ask if you want them!
Anyway Rant over.
Time for a Whisky
Ben

Sherlocks are top supplier of BM bits , just been looking at a k75 on their site but too far to travel.