Club 80-90 Forums

HarryMann wrote:It's linked to the inlet tract. Same thing if it's leaking

Looking at my problem (engine keeps cutting out at low revs/pick up), then I guess checking again all the hoses is the starting point (they seemed ok with a reasonable inspection)

joyful wrote:

HarryMann wrote:It's linked to the inlet tract. Same thing if it's leaking

Looking at my problem (engine keeps cutting out at low revs/pick up), then I guess checking again all the hoses is the starting point (they seemed ok with a reasonable inspection)

you can't see air leaking through a hose/joint.
the only way to be sure is to eliminate the possibility.
unfortunately this process can be frustrating and time consuming.
using carb cleaner to find a leak is recommended.

I would also be suspecting a blocked idle jet, this should be eliminated first.

kevtherev wrote:

joyful wrote:

HarryMann wrote:It's linked to the inlet tract. Same thing if it's leaking

Looking at my problem (engine keeps cutting out at low revs/pick up), then I guess checking again all the hoses is the starting point (they seemed ok with a reasonable inspection)

you can't see air leaking through a hose/joint.
the only way to be sure is to eliminate the possibility.
unfortunately this process can be frustrating and time consuming.
using carb cleaner to find a leak is recommended.
I would also be suspecting a blocked idle jet, this should be eliminated first.

Starts Ok with the choke and ticks over, when choke has stopped working after a few minutes and I press throttle. The tickover just dies unless I keep throttle down.

Can the idle jet be taken out and cleaned or is it best to use compressed air (is bike pump sufficient). When I remove the top cover I can see three jets in a row, but only the first one has groove in top for a screw driver, so is this the only one that can be removed and cleaned without more disassembly.

Also how do you use carb cleaner to check for air leaks in pipes and diaphragms.

Excuse my total ignorance.

My van had the same symptoms. Stalling on idle, rough tickover, etc. I too replaced the vacumn hoses, servo hose and it still ran poorly, so much so that it broke down and I had to have it relayed home.
The fault was cured, courtesy of an overhaul kit from brickwerks, where I found the float needle valve was worn out causing the carb to overfuel and flood the engine. When driving the extra fuel would be burnt off but once slowing to a stop it would flood the engine. And as I also replaced the diaphram and all the other little bits from the kit, it has run perfectly ever since.Best thirty odd quid I've ever spent on the van.

the jets are buried in the floatbowl at the very bottom of the carb.
the carb has to be dismantled.
carb cleaner can be sprayed on any hose and pipe connected to the carb servo hose.inlet manifold.even the carb itself..
as the solvent is drawn into the engine through any pin hintole will riseor joint the engine revs will rise ( warm engine )

New Kentish Campers wrote:My van had the same symptoms. Stalling on idle, rough tickover, etc. I too replaced the vacumn hoses, servo hose and it still ran poorly, so much so that it broke down and I had to have it relayed home.
The fault was cured, courtesy of an overhaul kit from brickwerks, where I found the float needle valve was worn out causing the carb to overfuel and flood the engine. When driving the extra fuel would be burnt off but once slowing to a stop it would flood the engine. And as I also replaced the diaphram and all the other little bits from the kit, it has run perfectly ever since.Best thirty odd quid I've ever spent on the van.

Sounds like that could be my problem (if cleaning the pilot jet and chenking all pipes for leaks does not work). Does the kit include a float needle valve replacement .

kevtherev wrote:the jets are buried in the floatbowl at the very bottom of the carb.
the carb has to be dismantled.
carb cleaner can be sprayed on any hose and pipe connected to the carb servo hose.inlet manifold.even the carb itself..
as the solvent is drawn into the engine through any pin hintole will riseor joint the engine revs will rise ( warm engine )

Thanks.

Just to confirm: the end one of the three brass jets you can see when you take off the top cover does have a groove for a screwdriver. Is this the pilot (idle?) jet that can be removed and cleaned without dissassambly, or are they all accessed from underneath.

those are air jets.
They are glued in
use a stiff bristle to clean them

kevtherev wrote:the jets are buried in the floatbowl at the very bottom of the carb.
the carb has to be dismantled.
carb cleaner can be sprayed on any hose and pipe connected to the carb servo hose.inlet manifold.even the carb itself..
as the solvent is drawn into the engine through any pin hintole will riseor joint the engine revs will rise ( warm engine )

To check for air leaks do I progressively spray each hose/connection one by one listening for any change in the engine revs which might then pinpoint the problem area. Is the engine response pretty instant or delayed?

yes spray it on the hoses, gaskets and joints
yes much pretty instant.

kevtherev wrote:

joyful wrote:

HarryMann wrote:It's linked to the inlet tract. Same thing if it's leaking

Looking at my problem (engine keeps cutting out at low revs/pick up), then I guess checking again all the hoses is the starting point (they seemed ok with a reasonable inspection)

you can't see air leaking through a hose/joint.
the only way to be sure is to eliminate the possibility.
unfortunately this process can be frustrating and time consuming.
using carb cleaner to find a leak is recommended.

I would also be suspecting a blocked idle jet, this should be eliminated first.

Is it possible to check for a blocked idle jet without dismantling the carburetor?

New Kentish Campers wrote:My van had the same symptoms. Stalling on idle, rough tickover, etc. I too replaced the vacumn hoses, servo hose and it still ran poorly, so much so that it broke down and I had to have it relayed home.
The fault was cured, courtesy of an overhaul kit from brickwerks, where I found the float needle valve was worn out causing the carb to overfuel and flood the engine. When driving the extra fuel would be burnt off but once slowing to a stop it would flood the engine. And as I also replaced the diaphram and all the other little bits from the kit, it has run perfectly ever since.Best thirty odd quid I've ever spent on the van.

I have looked at the online Pierburg manual and refurbishing the carburettor with the brickwerks kit looks a bit daunting with possibility of disturbing some of the settings.

Have you tried the vac advance unit to make sure it is working and the dizzy pipe isn't goosed?

soulfly71 wrote:Have you tried the vac advance unit to make sure it is working and the dizzy pipe isn't goosed?

How do you test the vac advance unit? Which part is it?

One thing at a time.
Let's take a methodical approach.
You are going to have to remove and clean things..to do that you have to dismantle stuff.
Sounds daunting?
Well if you think EVERYTHING has to be dismantled then you're wrong...and no settings will be disturbed

find a clean place to work.
undo three screws that hold the carb together. (top from bottom)
Split the carb
clean the floatbowl out.
Clean the brass jets in the top part
Ideally with compressed air. or a long stiff bristle
reassemble with a new gasket (comes in the brickwerks kit).
test.

this picture shows all the components...ignore the ones by themselves.
you need to remove No.1 from No. 23 that is all and nothing else is removed or dismantled
once the top is removed you will see the jets underneath it