Club 80-90 Forums

ghost123uk wrote:

pfield69 wrote: I've also noticed some stretch marks of cracks in the expansion tank.

Symptomatic of the Dalek cap not releasing excess pressure (happened to mine a few years ago).

Yep, 'GSFdalekcapitis'

Ok, T pipe blocked solid.

I've flushed and cleaned all the pipes from this piece of plumbing, all of it had heavy rust. I can't appear to fully clear the t piece although water does now flow out.

What is the otherside of the bulk head? this pipe looks full of rust too.

Do you recommend using a flushing fluid before refilling?

Was it blocked like the picture "ghost " put up?

No. The blockage is in the hard pipe that circles the engine bay (engine bay warmer?). It was blocked with hard black deposits. All other sludge is brown. It is the one that goes to the block.

That engine warmer is really the important bleed ring

I can't find the bleed sequance. I was going to
1. jack front up
2. remove rad bleed screw
3. fill expansion tank
4. start van & hold at 2000rpm
5. keep filling expansion tank until no bubbles.
6. close bleed screw and expansion tank and fill filler bottle.
7. leave for a fan on - off cycle then check bleed screw again. Repaet until it stays bubble free.
8. turn off and leave for 30min, then try again.

btw swapping antifreeze for g12 (purple)

pfield69 wrote:Do you recommend using a flushing fluid before refilling?

If it's that bad, then clean the bleed ring out manually - maybe replace some of it. Then plain water for a fill/bleed/fan-on-off, then immediately drain it all. Maybe even repeat that. THEN do the coolant fill. Drain it from the lowest point you can find - maybe a couple of places, to be sure to empty as much out as possible.

Don't forget to have the heater on full hot whilst you drain/fill/bleed.

You don't need to jack the van upl.
Theres great how to guide on Brickyard in the usefull thread section

kevtherev wrote:You don't need to jack the van upl.
Theres great how to guide on Brickyard in the usefull thread section

I find hanging the van from the crane at work via the front tow eye makes getting the air out so much easier

jamesc76 wrote:

kevtherev wrote:You don't need to jack the van upl.
Theres great how to guide on Brickyard in the usefull thread section

I find hanging the van from the crane at work via the front tow eye makes getting the air out so much easier

Just parking on our drive works for me.

pfield69 wrote:Double checked my antifreeze bottle. -15c 20/80, -35C 50/50!
Just bought 25l of coldmaster and thats 33% for -18C, 50% -36C
.

Forget about 'freeze protection' for a minute, this isn't the reason for a strong 50:50 mix in these engines. This high ratio is needed because of the particular vulnerability to 'corrosion' in the Wasserboxer design.....the strong mix is needed to prevent the insides of the engine corroding (Particularly the head studs) which are a known issue of poorly maintained engines.

I'm not sure if I've understood you correctly (reading what you have written above) but a wasserboxer cooling system has a TOTAL volume of just over 16 litres, so a 50 : 50 mix needs approximately 8 litres of Antifreeze to 8 litres of water.

Martin

Regarding the anti freeze, I will now put 50:50 mix in for corrosion properties rather then for anti freeze properties. The new VW anti freeze is G12 which is purple and can be mixed with G10(blue) G11(pink) both are obsolete from VW (I was told?).

I have now found the brickyard link. It is nearly what I do but I will try his method to the letter.

I having to replace one hose that broke when I removed it yesterday (back right of engine to engine bay warmer circuit) and will fit new header tank. Flush and recheck for a sealed system (pressure check).

I noticed that he said temp gauge should sit in the middle. Mine sits on or just below the line which is about 1/4 of scale. As there are only 3 marks, cold, mark, hot I thought this is where it is suppossed to be?

And from me =

So, another one with blocked thin pipes

You MUST clean ALL the pipes manually. You mustn't use the van until you are 100% sure ALL the pipes are clear. Blowing down them and / or using a garden hose with suitable reducers to make it a tight fit in the pipe (reducers = read "wrap insulation tape around the end of the hosepipe" ) will tell you if it is clear of obstructions. No amount of flushing agents are going to do the job for you but maybe might be used to advantage AFTER you have cleared all the pipes.

Afterwards, I would run it for a couple of days with just water in it to further flush. I would then look in the header tank and see how clear the water is, maybe flushing again. TROUBLE IS it is winter !! Can we trust the weather forecast re night time temps ? (btw, don't rely on draining it at night if no anti freeze in place !)

Now, re replacing the anti freeze. If you are going to change types you should flush all the other type out first as blue does not mix with any other type. This for sure involves the running and re-flushing a couple of times with just water as above ^^^. If the night time temps stay above freezing you can kill 2 birds with 1 stone here then

At this stage I wouldn't get hung up on where the gauge sits. They do vary for a variety of reasons. Leave that for another time As long as your coolant system is in good order (after this current "going over") no leaks, no continual need for topping up and your heater continuously blows hot air out all should be well

Thank. I eventually cleared blockage with jet wash, screwdriver and 6mmsq cable and verious sovents/ descalers
God knows what it was but when it did move the jet wash sent it into orbit.

I will flush any way but I wont change header unless it fails pressure test.

Wish me luck