Club 80-90 Forums

looking for a union

hiya, i am looking for a flared union for a flexi pipe to clutch slave cylinder for vw transporter t25. the left end looks like a union that you put a fuel house onto, on a moped fuel petcock. i can't find a replacement of this. here is a picture:



it's up near the top, coming out of the right of the see through flexi pipe. on the left, are progressively larger soft v shaped fluted ends that serve to push into the flexi pipe and hold in place. the other side is a standard thread that screws into the clutch slave cylinder. do you have a union like this or know where i can get one? regards.

clutch slave off, i got fed up with fettling and cut the hose behind the push-on fitting, bad news is i pushed the piston right up and down the bore with my thumb, smooth as butter no obstructions there.

answers on a postcard please!

xpress wrote: one question, if the boot wasn't attached properly with the circlip, would it cause air to leak in the piston?

Nope, that's a dust cover, same as the seals you can see on a brake caliper.

xpress wrote: also, there was a bit of really dark brake fluid dripping out of the clutch slave when i took it off, might indicate fluid was leaking past the piston rubber o ring?

It's normal for crud to collect at the end of the length of (probably very old) pipe. So long as it wasn't metallic which would imply that the innards were wearing out. It's not unknown to have to poke a hole through a crust in the top of a (good and working) slave cylinder to bleed it up.

Ian

PS it wouldn't hurt to pump quite a bit of clean fluid through the system when it's rebuilt.

Ian Hulley wrote:It's normal for crud to collect at the end of the length of (probably very old) pipe.

the fluid at the end of the tube was clear, the black fluid was dropping out of the bottom of the dust boot. i took a look at the fluid in an old ice cream tub, it looked gritty like it had small little particles of sand in there so the slave cylinder could have been breaking up, as far as i was aware i thought that there shouldn't be any fluid in the boot whatsoever as long as the piston was sealing and doing its job and if there's fluid then maybe on the up-stroke it's taking in air? thanks for your points.

For what they cost just replace it.

SADLY I'm not convinced that this will be the solution to your issues. When was the clutch last changed ? What's the release arm wear like ? Spigot bearing is a word that keeps coming to mind ... been there done that.

Sorry to be less than positive. Ian.

yes i feel like i am putting off the inevitable, and it's going to be a bearing, there used to be some interesting clunking that sounded like it was coming from the half-shafts, which could be a bearing breaking up in there but it stopped again. i guess the whole clutch circuit needs replacing as it's all probably past its best.

i guess dropping the gearbox isn't something i could do myself,

how much in labour (hours) and money would you guess at a cost of replacing the clutch bearing and the clutch disc?

xpress wrote:yes i feel like i am putting off the inevitable, and it's going to be a bearing, there used to be some interesting clunking that sounded like it was coming from the half-shafts, which could be a bearing breaking up in there but it stopped again. i guess the whole clutch circuit needs replacing as it's all probably past its best.

i guess dropping the gearbox isn't something i could do myself,

how much in labour (hours) and money would you guess at a cost of replacing the clutch bearing and the clutch disc?

On your own IF and I mean IF it goes well ... shafts off, clutch slave off (done BUT have nuts welded under the bracket so it's a doddle next time) earth off, linkage off, box out .. possibly 2 > 3 hours with coffee. What you then find is where the devil lies, replace the spigot bearing anyway as a matter of course while you are in there. It's late and a search may reveal more than I can remember now but several jobs should be done .. lube or replace CV's for e.g.

Ian

right, thanks for the primer. i will do a search in the meantime.

ok this is an open call if anyone has had the box off, and they fancy coming down and giving me a hand, will sort you out financially, it's a watercool 1.9 dg engine, on a 1985 plate, preferably with an impact driver, i can have the back jacked up with big huge fat van axle stands and i am on standby to assist.

one new clutch slave cylinder later, bled it and it's no different. when bleeding it, i could hear a bit of air going through the master cylinder, thought it might need changing too but the noise stopped and no air bubbles through the one way valve at the slave end. van is still lurching forward, not going into gear unless switched off at the key, with engine running, it lurches forward with the clutch pedal down.

Spigot bearing.

Ian, would this be a good time to consider converting to 5 speed? Many Thanks.

Spigot seconded.

Exactly what happened to me....once in gear....no coming out. Only way to stop was to stall...then turn the key van lurched forward.

Good luck with that....get a bearing puller or you will be there for hours......and could damage the internals of your engine.

Spigot less than a tenner.

Don't swap out your four speed unless you know there is something wrong and you have a known good 5 speed to put in. The 1 to 2 gear change is a skill in itself, and those in the know say the 4 speed is stronger.

saying that, I drive 5 speed. Hubby drives 4 speed. Nothing to be gained in economy either.

Em
xx

ermie571 wrote:Don't swap out your four speed unless you know there is something wrong and you have a known good 5 speed to put in. The 1 to 2 gear change is a skill in itself, and those in the know say the 4 speed is stronger.

As Emm say's, get the parts you have working correctly first.

Spigot shaft support bearing ... http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... ory_id=123

You will probably want to do a search and read the extensive previous tips of other jobs to do whilst the box is out., the clutch (one of 2 sizes could be fitted) and starter motor bush for a start http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... ory_id=123, change gearbox oil, weld 2 M8 nuts to the underside of the slave cylinder bracket etc etc.

Ian

thanks a lot for this and for your replies. will stay with the four speed and i am going to take a look and see what else needs doing at the same time. going to see if i can find out what's involved and how many hands i need when dropping the box.....