Club 80-90 Forums

Aidan wrote:I think there's still on the wiki a write up of a gearbox trolley jack adapter that Hacksaw Bob wrote up based on a design I came up with utilising some ply wood a used failed front upper ball joint and two bits of m6 threaded bar - enables the box to be secured to trolley jack and moved in any plane for allignment

sounds like you need to pull the box to check it all out, but first I'd recommend a gear oil change so drop the oil once the protection is off and see what the plug has to say, should be a modest head and clean stem - selector rod bearings issues show as balls or pressed steel 1" long bits

also check selection at box with linkage off, does it feel equal and consistent in both directions in all 3 planes (fully out, half in, fully in, about 7mm between planes at the box, is it different engine on or off (if you can test this safely)

could also be I guess contaminated spigot bearing, contaminated splines for clutch friction plate, interference with guide tube, release bearing mounting or lube issue or a clutch hydraulics issue

Great info, thanks.

I drained the oil and there was nothing in it. It was slightly dirty but not to bad, which makes sense as the box has done less than ten thousand Kms since rebuild.

Thanks for the tip on gear box removal in the wiki.

I think droping the box and inspecting and replacing bell housing and clutch parts is the next obvious move.

A thought occurred to me last night, what's the age of the clutch master cylinder? Changing the one on our syncro made a massive difference to shift quality even on a low-mileage AJT rebuilt trans; it failed quite suddenly (puddle on the mat) but there was a noticeable deterioration beforehand. It's a quick hour's work all done, a pressure bleed kit makes the job a lot easier.

.. Have you read Wiki on fettling clutch before installing e.g. removing burrs from release forks, ensuring centre-plate smooth travel as said etc

You really need to assure that there is no lack of stiffness in all the rel;ated clutch release parts, by watching the clutch pushrod travel as someone depresses pedal, e.g. stiffening support, slave cylinder bracket flex, etc etc

I have been reading my way through the helpful stuff on Wiki. Thanks to those who keep it updated.

As I have a few days free next week I hope to get the box out and have a look.

As the engine is not original to the vab I am finding it hard to know what clutch parts I might need. My engine is a AFN, mTDI, the flywheel and clutch put in was one of these ...http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI. ... 0429504947" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Does any know the part numbers if I need to order a new clutch, thrust bearing and spigot bearing. Being based in NZ parts are hard to find. I have been into a few parts places but they have not idea what I am talking about as they only know how to search by a vehicles reg number. If I have a part number then I should be able to ask for that. I know I can buy the parts here as long as I know what I need. If I am organized then I should be able to get this sorted out next week as I really need the van back on the road ASAP.

Thanks again.

once you have removed the box and exposed the clutch it should have the part no's on it.

neil

axeman wrote:once you have removed the box and exposed the clutch it should have the part no's on it.

neil

Good point. Thanks.

Box out. Not as bad I thought it would be!

Some photos below of the clutch etc.

I think that the release/ thrust bearing has been jamming on the tube that sticks out the gearbox. I notice when you push the clutch arm sometimes the bearing throws out and gets stuck!? The spring clip that holds the right hand side is bent and does not hold anymore.




I am not sure on the state of the clutch it looks like it has some deepish scratch marks, more than I have seen on other clutches. The plate is 9.56mm thick but I am not sure what it was to start with. Thoughts please.



The spigot bearing seems to run well but I will need to remove the flywheel as the pooh plates are fitted behind it, plus i think there is a slight oil leak. I take it that is a simple seal once I work out what size those big spline things are and get them undone?



So do I put a complete new clutch in or take a chance and replace just the release bearing?

More photos here ... http://www.flickr.com/photos/fallowfiel ... 065295697/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks in advance for idea's and advice

Friction plate looks fine to me. Your problem is that broken/damaged spring, causing the release bearing to kick over under load and then bind on the sleeve i.e making the clutch drag.

Get a new release bearing as it's probably distressed and job done.

Release bearing springs (handed) 113 141 177 C and ...178 C and should be pennies.

Got a little more done today.

It looks like my rear oil seal has been leaking so I will replace it.


With the pooh plates you can see that the old one is missing the bottom half. If anyone else is doing a AHU conversion make sure the person who does it puts in one of the aftermarket ones. A lot of work to get at it afterwards.


I will look for a new release bearing as on closer inspection where it moves up and down the guide tube it is worn.


Now just a matter of cleaning it all up and getting it back together ....

We're rooting for you Joe, hope you can resolve all these problems before it all goes back together

HarryMann wrote:We're rooting for you Joe, hope you can resolve all these problems before it all goes back together

Thanks mate. The help on here is invaluable.

Sometimes I wonder if bringing the Syncro to NZ was a good idea!? Parts are so hard to find and so expensive. The release bearing is 50 quid and upto a month to get! But with help on here and the internet I can sort most things, and of course plenty of $$$..
I really want the Syncro to be a reliable daily driver. We have spent a fair amount on it (don't ask for a total!) In NZ we have lots of back country rds that make for great exploring and camping.... Just need to not break down as recovery costs can be in the thousands.

With the box out I thought it might be a good time to sort out any other problems. The tank has leaked for ages and the straps look very rusted. So I decided to drop the tank. What a sh..t job. Diesel, coolant and 25yr old dirt and mud in ya face! Do people normally remove the sender gauge first? Mine got hooked up on the chassis rail stopping the tank from dropping down. After lots of bad words a large pry bar and jack I got it out. Anyway, its out...

As you can see i have had a leak for a while from the filler hose.


The metal part where you fill the tank has been badly welded in the past and was leaking.


The sender works but along with the tank straps is very corroded. Plus I think the sender should have a pickup tube on the end of it?




So it looks like a load of new parts? Between, Brickwerks, Go Westy and Van cafe with deep pockets I should get another 25yrs out of it! Not complaining at the part costs, just happy people still make em, its just postage costs...

Why do we own them? My Landcrusier is so much less hassle.

-filler neck (stainless) Brickwerks
-filler neck rubber hose (only found on van cafe web site) expensive for a rubber hose?
-sender unit kit. Van Cafe and Go Westy
-tanks straps (stainless) Many suppliers
-tanks re-seal kit Van cafe Go Westy.

I should start a new thread about the tank ...

Thanks again for helping and putting up with my moans and stupid questions ...

Full photos here.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/fallowfiel ... 874834724/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I should start a new thread about the tank ...

sounds like a plan? I'm following with great interest. Maybe Ashley (alewing) will be along shortly - he just did a complete refurb on his diesel tank, don't think he bought too much off the shelf to do it

The Caravelle filler neck hose is a b###ard, I wanted to remove the one on ours (small split by the filler clamp) but corrosion in the steel conduit that carries it meant that it had to stay put, despite all my efforts to remove it.
Rubbish design of the filler box in the wing doesn't have a drain for rainwater or spills, it just relies on the gap between hose and conduit
The OEM hose has a thin plastic liner, if mine was anything to go by, maybe (read: almost certainly) a special VW spec. Modern stuff is different and probably won't last 25+ years

Don't forget the guy in Germany who has a full range of stuff in stainless

Please find link to a couple of threads i started re my diesel tank. however, filler pipe differs for the pick up and a b*gger to get the correct gaskets/seals....but after some searching ~ vw classics and german ebay came up trumps...in fact i think i have 2 off everything associated with the filler pipe and seals.

my tanks straps were fully serviceable, only light surface corrosion - media blasted and painted like new. I didnt have to remove sender to remove/refit tank, but i did remove it for other reasons. all feed/return & breather pipes replaced for new.

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=94396

hopefully some useful bits in this link. let me know if you need any further information etc.

good luck with it all.
cheers,
Ash