Club 80-90 Forums

Hi All,

I've a rather battered Westy California that is awaiting an engine transplant and a load of bodywork to be done to it. The plan is to get it roadworthy, use it and then the bodywork be done properly once and for all. In the meantime I want it to look semi presentable as otherwise the other half will refuse to be seen dead in it.

I've read the wiki and today decided to practice on the tailgate (which is to be replaced). The problem i found was that despite sanding down the bodywork with 600 wet and dry when I rollered on the paint it only seemed to stick to the body work in places and not uniformly. I watered the paint down with a mix of approx 20-25% thinners as per the wiki.

Can anyone give me any pointers as to what I am doing wrong?

Cheers all.

Wax on the bodywork? DVD your best bet - covers everything.

Finally plucked up the courage to give it a go....
Here are a couple of before and afters.


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Very pleased with the first coat, BIG thanks to Covkid for giving me the confidence to give it a go

What you've got to watch when painting white is that old window rubbers (when it rains) don't cause dark streaks. I have no idea why, but white tends to be prone to this. Looking good by the way

Made a start on mine tonight by doing a test on the rear hatch, although it was forecast to be clear i think we are going to get hit with rain so hoping that its dried enough before that happens, tried accelerating it a bit with a heat gun, but i suppose we shall see in the morning, its al least gave me an idea of what the process is like

Dunno if this has been mentioned before but i know others have experienced it, but if anyone is getting too many air bubbles in the paint then get a heat gun out and give it a quick going over, it kinda works similar to if you have ever poured clear epoxy resin, passing the heat gun across it pops the bubbles surface tension and allows it to flow.

One thing i seen on the dvd was that you had painted it a couple of times before flatting?, its just i thought i had read on hear you flat between coats?

Whether you flat between coats really depends on temperature etc as it will effect finish.

CovKid wrote:Whether you flat between coats really depends on temperature etc as it will effect finish.

Looks like i'm gonna flat it anyway, by the time i get back round to painting it it will have cured so a quick going over and flatting with the 500 grit i have will do, was quite orange peely and there were some bubbles still left on the top of the panel so will just knock them down with some of the 500 before 2nd coat,

loving this thread, nice one Ralph!!

On that note, I was reading the wiki notes and noticed a photo of a factory high top (very nice) that's has a seitz style window.

am curious about fitting these myself as I have never had success with the panel van window seals.

just wondered if you know the van, looking for more pic's and wondered how they fit to the contours of the van.

need to explore this before I rip the rubbers out and get the roller loaded!!

No idea. So many have done this and sent photos over last 8 years, I've lost track. I'd ask it as a general question in bodywork section. Go for it fella.

Ralph

Hi, Very interesting thread.
I am thinking of rollering my T2, but would like to use Standard VW colours, Titian Red, L555 and Biege Grey L472.
Does anyone know of a Rustoleum supplier who will mix paint to match a sample?
Thanks.

Maybe avenue coatings?

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MikeS56 wrote:Hi, Very interesting thread.
I am thinking of rollering my T2, but would like to use Standard VW colours, Titian Red, L555 and Biege Grey L472.
Does anyone know of a Rustoleum supplier who will mix paint to match a sample?
Thanks.

I got mine from Brewers at Southampton as they have a Rustoleum mixing machine, the staff were great.

I would like to paint my Autosleeper Poptop roof with rustoleum.

Is it fine to use on fiberglass?

Yup - long as theres a key.

Does anyone know if rustoleum is available in Northern Ireland ?