Club 80-90 Forums

400 fine. The DVD tells you all this. Easier to do top first then you won't spoil the bottom if you do happen to get a drip.

I have just painted my T4 and this thread was a great help. So just thought I would add my thoughts.
I had the exact same problem as Neilfenstein with bubbles, so many of them even after using the roller a while. Was not leaving a good finish. As cov kid has said it's unlikely too much thinners (and I tried less but same effect) then most likely the roller.
I got mine from b&q I just wondered if they have changed recently because they are different brand too what I have had from there in the past
anyway got my self some mohair roller heads was much better no bubbles what so ever and decent finish so would recommend this too anyone having same problems. Next coat will try a foam roller but not a b&q one to see how that goes.

Mohair can work very well indeed.

mbcamper wrote:Couple of painting questions before I apply paint.

- I'm doing my final prep with 400 grade wet and dry. Is that good enough?

- I'm going for a two tone finish, light blue at the bottom and white on top. Does it matter which I do first?

Thanks

Mark

Something like this?!?!



we did the top first, seemed to work well that way. watch the masking tape though, if you leave it on too long it wont come off easy!!!!!

What actual colours?

CLUB 80-90, hello!

Brand new member as of today, redirected through from T3zone, a fench speaking discussion board for VW T3 (T25) fans. Was reading up alot on repaint methods, almost found the definite and cheap method with Montana spray cans but... I then stumbled on this topic! Back down to zero, hehehe. The member base here is quite impressive, and the extensivess of the info is remarkable! Congrats to you gentlemen and gentlewomen So, I'm already well convinced about the method and I give you my word to get back to you on the result, and to start the topic on the other forum (if you're alright with that). I was just wondering, when you say to "flatten", is it basically using sand paper to smooth out the surface? If so, and this is probably described properly somewhere , could someone kindly indicate where I could refer to? Not too sure about the grain levels, and how it works when used "wet". Thanks for the tips! Ps. My T3 was previously rolled with paint from Lidl by the prior owner doesn't look so bad, hehe!

See ya.

flatten - wet & dry paper with a little cheap washing up liquid added to the water.

Cheers CovKid! As asked above, are we alright with a 400 grain flattening between each layer and after the final one before a polish?

Quite excited to get onto this !

OK, here's an indecisive question if you ever heard one!:-

My van is currently white, and I have some white/ very light grey rustoleum ready to give it a coat, probably a panel at a time as I get round to tackling it, but ultimately covering the whole van.

In the future I want to paint it red - would red rustoleum go straight over white rustoleum ok, or would I need a coat of primer inbetween?

Bluebussler - get the DVD, its cheap enough and covers the prep. http://www.9dartshop.com/car_roller_painting/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Discipleofsketch. Yes over white will be fine. Red actually goes better on a yellow primer. You just may find you need a minimum of three coats to obliterate the white.

As an aside, yesterday I drew level with a transporter lorry with brand new hatchbacks onboard. I forget the make but my roller coat was way better.

@CovKid, thanks for the tip, I was considering it but the shipping to continental Europe doubles the price of the product.

Kittycamper84,

Yes almost exactly the same as your van. Identical colours in fact. The only difference is that I'm painting the front panel entirely blue.

Removing the masking tape after every application of paint.

I'm applying 4 coats which I'm hoping is enough when it comes to flatting and polishing.

Mark

The weather has suddenly taken a step towards Autumn and got colder... and I'm half way through painting.

Rustoleum paint says you can apply it down to 5degrees... not sure how optimistic this is.

My van is in the garage, so it's not getting hopelessly cold, but at what temperature should I consider not painting?

Your biggest enemy now is moisture in the air but no way would I be painting this time of year as it takes an age to dry and may not cure quickly enough before cold damp air spoils what you've done overnight. Need some sort of heating once temperature drops after 4-5 pm.

Now then, I was wondering how I would fare if I were to roller two coats back to back without flat ting as there isn't time at the moment. My rears are in grey primer and I'd like to try and get them looking half decent for the winter. Once spring arrives, I'll be in a better position to continue with prepping the rest of the van and flatting the areas that I get painted this time.

It'll be done in a workshop and once the paint has flashed off, I can turn the heating on between coats or alternatively, I could hire some radiant heaters that won't kick up the dust.

Any thoughts, how much tine between coats! Bare in mind it's not going to be the final finish this time around. Many thanks, Mitch.

You'll have to suck it and see I think. In high Summer with blazing temperatures the paint will go off inside 45 mins but I'd allow at least an hour or so before adding a second one. I have in the past gone right round a van and straight back round again but it WAS hot! Much will depend on how smooth you make the first coat. If you're in the swing of it, have someone with you to look at the paint from various angles to spot any errors, you'll be fine. With heating, you should be able to get two coats on. What you can't do is flat without paint really hardening but thats not an issue in your case.

Just don't play with the second coat too much. Get it on and move briskly. Work it too much and you'll be working with two layers and it'll be like toffee.