Club 80-90 Forums

Its probably impossible to find out what paint was used on this van?
It could be cheap Superstore paint?
I don't think anyone in this thread has had this problem, I didn't prepare my van the best and the paint is still stuck fast a year later.
is this van an ex 80-90 van?
feel sorry for you, buying a ok lolling van and then the paint falls off!

It's probably worth saying again that this entire thread is about rollering with Rustoleum Combi Color and not with any old paint.

Most people (including me) have found this paint excellent for the job and have been amazed by how an old van can be transformed by your own hands.

Two major points to make here: 1) prep is everything with a paint job. 2) accept no substitute for the Rustoleum product!

Thank you for all the advice on this thread. Will soon be giving it a go. My 83-84 transporter sticker says pastel white but some previous owner sprayed it white van man white! After several years of de-rusting and touch up spray jobs, he's looking very shabby! interior is still the original - and actually a lovely tone. I have matched up a halfords VW candy white that matches perfectly? Any clue as to the rustoleum code or a stockist who could match this up in the Plymouth area? Thanks

Hi chaps.

I have a question about flatting back. Is it necessary to flat back after the first coat of paint? I have just finished, but I am a bit concerned that I might go through the paint if I flat back at this early stage. That said, I am also a bit concerned that if I don't, the second coat of paint won't have a good enough 'key' to adhere properly. If someone could aid me in this dilemma, I would be greatful.

Cheers

Happy rollering

Rob

Hi , you do need to give the paint a key by roughing it up but no need to fully flat back you fully flat back as after the final coat before polishing etc.

PeeSG, you can hardly blame rollering Rustoleum for this. It sticks like poo to a blanket. I appreciate you inherited that original paint but for starters, bright blue over black is a no-no in painting. As a minimum you'd need some kind of barrier paint like a neutral grey primer. You need a good key too.

There are hundreds if not thousands that have done this now. Clearly you have a specific problem there. You sure its not a paint with teflon in?

I just finished painting both doors and bonnet last night and all looked good. I went outside this morning and one of the doors was all matt colour. It looked like chalk. I was horrified, but also glad that it was not all of what I'd painted. I am not sure what caused this to happen, but it was only on one door and not the other or the bonnet. These are my speculations as to what happend. I wish I had taken a picture, but I didn't. Feel free to choose what you'd think cause this.

1. I got white spirit from another project I am doing in the garden accidentally in the paint that I mixed for the bonnet as I mixed in between car parts. This was a wood preserver. Maybe this affected the gloss performance part of the paint.

2. The sun possibly shon on the car as it moved overhead and did something before it had time to dry / level out or whatever. Not sure how this would do that, though.

3. I did not clean the surface of door properly after flatting back, and / or I did not wipe it down properly with white spirit before applying the next coat of paint. Possiblt, but I belive I did it the same as the other parts of the car.

I am inclined to think that I may have got white spirit in it from a blush cleaning exercise with wood preserver. I cannot rule that out as a possibility. I have a lot of jars of different things in the garage, and I may have made a mistake.

If you have any idea what could have done this, please let me know. I am a bit lost. Thankfully, it was only a slight set back.

Who can say what impact it may have had but wood preserver certainly isn't white spirit and is often oily.

Not No. 2 the sun

If you flat thoroughly with slightly soapy wet n dry I don't always wipe down with White Spirit but if suspect area i use a quick spray of a proprietary oil free solvent. Especially rear near exhaust of a diesel.

Marginally likely original paint but if CK says unlikely then that leaves your contaminated WS. Always thin with new fresh WS and IMHO not too much.
I'm going over some odd paint too but happy with what I've achieved so far... sliw being a bit of a steady Eddy !

I discoverd the reason for my problem. It happend to rain over night after I painted, despite the forecast not saying it will. It ruins the paint work. I fixed it now and got a car port to borrow at a family members house so all is good with the world again. I can get on with my car in all weathers - quite lucky really to be offered the shelter.

Humid or damp conditions are bad for most paints - as is a sudden drop in temperature. Just make sure you really key the surface you're painting. Better to commit an extra day or two to that rather than have issues with peeling.

Hey there Covkid, TOTALLY inspired me to paint my T25 by roller btw!!
Almost finished now, went for a soft sheen black, almost matt as well as proper primer from our local Auto-paint shop, all in i think we've spent maybe £150-£200 incl sandpaper, cellulose thinners, masks, masking tape etc etc, gonna be finished by Tues this week and will put a pic on this thread of it if thats ok, i will say though that we had to use a Blending thinners spray as soon as id rolled as this bursts the bubbles caused by the roller action and smoothed the paint a bit more, dont know if this is the same as when using non matt paint as its quite thick even with a 20% ratio of thinners,

Just like to say thanks for telling everyone about this, who needs a paint shop and a £2000 paint budget?!


And to all the ppl out there, dont paint if its humid or the paint WILL go chalky, like Chocolate goes white if its off, paint does the same if done in a humid environment i.e. threatining rain or rained on the day your painting if done outside like me, paint only if its dry.

I would NEVER have seriously done it with a roller but having painted a car before with a spray gun i can honestly say the Roller way is better by far, less taping, less mess, no indoor booth/Gazebo needed, no overspray, no compresser etc, just a man and a few rollers so thanks for the inspiration, cant wait to put the decals on now

Music to my ears, and would agree with all above merits. I now see bodywork as akin to maintaining a narrowboat to be honest.

Does anyone know the closest colour match in the rustoleum for Marsala Red, colour code LH3D? Ordered the DVD and ready to roll(er)

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Marsa ... &gws_rd=cr" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Somewhere amongst that is your answer (possibly) but I suspect its a mixed colour, and not a standard RAL shade.