Club 80-90 Forums

many thanks jen , I will ditch the 800 then I thought it seemed to smooth .

ladybugsdad wrote: many thanks jen , I will ditch the 800 then I thought it seemed to smooth .

it is what it becomes when you see it clearly

After months of reading this thread and doing lots of rust treatment. I have now completed the Van. First coat done yesterday and it was a it warm t be honest but I was out of time, as want to use the Vanfor the next few weekends. So thanks Cov Kid fr all the advice, and here are the before and afters.

Before http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r74 ... da7fbf.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

and

After http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r74 ... 335c9f.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Good luck with yours, heed the warnig beware the heat as it does speed up the working time massively.

Color used here LH5G VW Orginal Middle Blue. Replacing what was on already.

good job! and I will bear in mind the heat hope to get some paint on midweek

Thank you for this fantastic topic - came aware of it last year and have been back to read up and the brill wiki!.. had a quick go with a red on the bonnet and sides and didn't like it as it was too bright. Left it as that as life got in the way.


Roll on this weekend after lots of prep work sanding, filling etc and really got working on my camper (its not a VW )

She is a big thing and will take some time to go though.

Before side: Notice the rust patches - one bottle of that vactan stuff as mentioned in the WIKI used last year killed the rust dead.


After side:


While its a learning curve I am glad this 1st coat has gone well. so will throw away the 3 rollers and tray and hoping to aim for a full 1 coat by the end of the week due to work etc (bar the bottom 6" of the sills as these are getting cut out and replaced due to the typical merc tin worm) I will be limited on time so its a good thing that this stuff rolls on very quick. Quick key down with P150 on a sander to remove the white gloss thats been on for 17 years now and wipe away with white spirits

Anyhoooo.. the Blue (RAL 5002) I got is looking to be a bit too bright so I will use the rest of the tin as a base coat and order in RAL 5011 instead to paint over the top. Any folk did a colour change 1/2 way through> did it work okay?

Oh thanks for this brill topic

Oh I need to add.

I do have a roller line - I gather one would sand down between the coats and this line will go right?

But don't seem to have a problem with bugs here / had 1 fly stuck onto the panel but that will go on the sander- but have access to a massive drive in shed when it comes nearer the time to put down the final coat (20c all day/night as used for storage of root veg)

But looking to have 1 week between each coat due to the size and time used a 20% mix of thinner worked.

Quick question - can anyone confirm if Rustoleum is OK on GRP (hi-top)?? Looked on prodcut data sheet and it only refers to metal - assuming OK?

Sticks to anything providing it has a key.

Great, thanks. Time to choose a colour....

I just wanted to post a big thank you to CovKid for inspiring me to get on and sort out the paintwork on my van. I've spent the last 5 weekends doing it - from the 1st coat onwards the van has looked sooooooo much better. The wife is happy and the kids have stopped calling it rusty!

Anyway, I have a couple of bits to tidy up and finish off (including clear glass indicator lenses) but I'm well pleased with the result. The local VW community seem impressed too, since I've started on the paint job I've had several waves from Bays!!! (as well as the usual T25 ones.)


1st trip with new paint! by Larfinn, on Flickr

And you will inspire others too I'm sure. I think you'll agree that whilst spraying has its place, there are few good makeovers that don't eventually see seam rash. The advantage with rollering is that you can treat the rust as best you can, paint it and see what surfaces. You can then dig out any offending areas and run the roller over it again - not so easy when you've spent a few grand on a nice spray job. Looks fantastic by the way!

Thanks, the weather was kind last month, dry weekends! Was a bit nervous 1st time but 2nd and 3rd coats were fun. 4th and final coat took a bit longer as I was concentrating but not difficult as I had got the hang of it by then! Took me till the last coat before I got the flatting down sorted so the finish could have been better in places but the overall effect is great. WIll probably treat the van to a new final coat next year but until then I shall enjoy the rust free look!

If anyone is unsure - give it a go, it's OK! (although you have probably missed the best time of the year to do it.)

I'll have to change my signature now too.

leo-saphira wrote:Thank you for this fantastic topic - came aware of it last year and have been back to read up and the brill wiki!.. had a quick go with a red on the bonnet and sides and didn't like it as it was too bright. Left it as that as life got in the way.

van3.jpg

Roll on this weekend after lots of prep work sanding, filling etc and really got working on my camper (its not a VW )

She is a big thing and will take some time to go though.

Before side: Notice the rust patches - one bottle of that vactan stuff as mentioned in the WIKI used last year killed the rust dead.

van1.jpg

After side:

van2.jpg

While its a learning curve I am glad this 1st coat has gone well. so will throw away the 3 rollers and tray and hoping to aim for a full 1 coat by the end of the week due to work etc (bar the bottom 6" of the sills as these are getting cut out and replaced due to the typical merc tin worm) I will be limited on time so its a good thing that this stuff rolls on very quick. Quick key down with P150 on a sander to remove the white gloss thats been on for 17 years now and wipe away with white spirits

Anyhoooo.. the Blue (RAL 5002) I got is looking to be a bit too bright so I will use the rest of the tin as a base coat and order in RAL 5011 instead to paint over the top. Any folk did a colour change 1/2 way through> did it work okay?

Oh thanks for this brill topic

I've got a Merc ex-bus also, the bottom of the body rots due to the double skin and no rust treatment inside the cavities. I have replaced mine with single skin and strengthening pieces lengthways. Still sailed through the MoT though after freeing up the handbrake levers (worth checking these before they seize up totally, they can be freed up with a blow lamp and oil so that they can move under there own weight). Any thing else you need to know, give me a shout.

If you need spares I know a German site that has a lot - I have just bought a drum brake relining kit that I could not find in the UK.

Has anyone had problems with opacity? I'm painting on Bambus yellow, matched by tools-paint.com and after two coats I can still very clearly see where i've vactaned underneath. Am I thinning too much?

Cheers,
Tim

How much are you thinning then? Loading the roller up well?

Flatting original colour well also helps, 3M quality 180 silicon carbide about right.. IMHO
Think the 3rd coat will do it, just gently de-glaze between coats.

Hey ho stick at it, I'm trying to cover in places a revolting blue the BBC used on my truck, with white. Fortunately the rest is a white of sorts.