Club 80-90 Forums

itchyfeet wrote:there is one that's very expensive if I remember from expansion tank to carb

You mean this one? There's a cheaper alternative but either way I'm not sure how I would connect it to my re-plumbed coolant system. I'm guessing I could insert it where this flex hose is connected in.



Also, If I want to switch to a 2E3, will I need to find an inlet vacuum unit or will it work without one?

ah yes I was forgetting you had an early cooling system, I don't have any experience with them.

as I see it you just need a feed to carb choke and out, looks like the manifold is already connected left side so get a pic of the hose to manifold on right side?

You could fit it without as it's nearly summer and worry about connecting it up later.

you already have a vaccum connection to the manifold or your brakes would be rubbish.

Thanks Paul. Here are the photos of the RHS and LHS of my manifold and coolant pipe connections. So there's a coolant supply to and return from the 2E3 carb itself is that correct? Or is the supply and/or return via the manifold?

I haven't yet looked into the vacuum system on a T25 so I have no clue how all that works.

For now I have connected the air box to my Solex carb. It fits well and it's gotta be better than that cheap mushroom filter I had on.

I'd take that hose off from pipe to manifold and join the choke there.

Ciaraneng wrote:

late 2e3 as you can see carb joins to manifold

what you really need is somebody with an early DG to photograph the pipes with pancake off.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/13qRs4B ... p=drivesdk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

itchyfeet wrote:I'd take that hose off from pipe to manifold and join the choke there.

Ciaraneng wrote:

Ah ok, so bring the choke into the loop between the manifold and the steel pipe. That makes sense. Thanks Paul.

Thanks for the video DoubleOSeven.

I just found this diagram of an early cooling system and thought I'd post it in case anyone needs it.

Ciaraneng wrote: Ah ok, so bring the choke into the loop between the manifold and the steel pipe. That makes sense. Thanks Paul.

I've been going cross eyed looking at this lot but I think Paul is right.
You can use this- https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... ifold.html to go from manifold to choke.
Then you'd have to jury rig something from choke to metal pipe, may the gods of pipe diameter be with you.

BBB wrote:I've been going cross eyed looking at this lot but I think Paul is right.
You can use this- https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... ifold.html to go from manifold to choke.
Then you'd have to jury rig something from choke to metal pipe, may the gods of pipe diameter be with you.

Thanks BBB. BW are out of stock on this one unfortunately but hopefully I'll find something suitable. I think I'll need the gods of both pipe diameter and bend radius to be with me. I have a DG manifold that I can try with my rebuilt carb before I do the install so hopefully I'll get close. I'll use some nice flexible 30-year-old about-to-burst coolant hose and let the pressure and temperature do the work to make it flow. What can possibly go wrong.

I have a DG manifold that I can try with my rebuilt carb before I do the install so I can mock it up before I install. Hopefully I'll get close. I followed James Akers Video and stripped my 2E3 down on the weekend. One of the vac lines was completely split which might explain why it was taken out.

Looks like I've got some carb cleaning to do....

Pierburg 2E3 rebuilt using a BW kit and mounted on a DG intake manifold ready for mounting. The manifold had a hose for a 2E3 already on it so I got lucky. Should be straightforward to connect.

The choke pull down unit did not move when I sucked the pipe so I assume that means I need a new one. Is it worth putting it in the van or should I wait for a new unit?

I decided to go ahead and put the carb in. It looks as if the pull down unit can be changed with the carburetor in place.

I was going to ask where I should run the 'back' port of my dizzy vac unit to. Then I discovered that DG dizzy vac units only have one port. My dizzy must have been changed to a DF version at the same time the carb was.

Will I have to change my dizzy? Or can I blank off the second port or just leave it open? Or can the vac units be swapped between the dizzys?

Update: Old dizzy with back port disconnected seems to work fine. Really happy with the 2E3 Carb even without the choke pull-down unit. Significantly more power than the Solex 34 PICT the van came with. I have some misfiring going on when I'm going uphill and under pressure but it's still a big improvement versus the old set-up.

I did a bit of work trying to get to the bottom of the misfiring. It only happens when I the throttle is close to fully depressed. I checked the spark plugs and have three white and one is black (No.3) but not badly covered in carbon. Do the white plugs indicate too lean a mixture? I have opened the mixture screw about 5 turns so it's not that. Back in at 3.5 turns now. I have checked the timing and replaced the fuel filter. I have a visible 'line' through the middle of the fuel pump (it's hard to see on a photo'. Could it be water or is air more common? I disconnected the engine end of the filter and 'bled' it but couldn't get the air/water/line to go away.

No.3 piston seems to be firing at TDC. I still have not gotten around to replacing the choke pull down unit but I assume that only comes into play when starting and not when up to temp? When I'm paying for shipping from BW what else should I get? I'm thinking a fuel pump pushrod and maybe a new set of leads (although they seem pretty new)? I'm using a DF dizzy with a 2E3 but the vac advance seems to be working fine. I have two other fuel pumps I could try out.

Here are the photos of 1, 2, 3, 4 in order. I have switched 3 and 4 around to see if the 'new' No 3 plug goes black. All cylinders are compression testing at 8.5 Bar except 3 which is at just over 8 Bar.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated.