Club 80-90 Forums

I would be happy with the gearing you have Tom

jed

Generally I/we/the converter try to gear AFN engined bus at 3100/70mph +/-150rpm this seems to work, it's not an exact science though because of the variations in weight etc.. and installations , some are very compromised with lots of JX and poor inlet systems others are well done and close to or even more powerful than stock in the donor

and don't forget I don't drive any of these derv vans myself so I can't give you an absolute "I've driven this for 5 years and I know it works" answer

wel I can, but that's stock wbx with standard gearing on stock tyres

I replaced the petrol rear linkage bar to a diesel one.

Top is diesel, bottom petrol.



Still have a problem of it coming out of G and 1st when driving on rough or bumpy ground. But I should now be able to fit the engine protection.

Tom
the cranks on the linkages look like they are fitted oppositely - I wonder if one is wrong way around - just checked mine the petrol one in the picture is assembled correctly, bends up then straightens when fitted
would one of the diesel guys take a look at their's to see if the diesel one is correct

I checked the link bar against the one on my JX and it is correct.

Any idea why it's coming out of gear?

either there is insufficient throw at the ball and socket because say the skirt of the boot has ridden up and is fouling it or the rear bush assembly isn't up enough ( fnarr fnarr ) or the ball has ridden up the shaft ( ) or the length of the linkage isn't right or some other linkage/gearstick issue or there's something wrong with the synchro/slider/fork or worst case the pinion shaft is moving, generally if that's the case you know it when selecting R after going forward previously, crunch/graunch/bad vibe/noiz
haven't come across many R AND G selection issues before, usually one or t'other

Here Tom, have you got the Syncro air filter housing with the particle collector or the 2wd one? Also how is the ducting from the snorkel routed to the air filter? I really could do with a sniff around but I think you might have the same set up as mine that Russel reluctantly fitted this way after me pestering him I have just sorted a way around one of the problems that you could be interested in

jed

Gents - ive just done a smooth 2000miles to italy and back in my 130hp PD tdi passat, still getting broken in at 130k. got to thinking somewhere around Munich - why is the PD tdi not the engine of choice for t3 conversion, I am guessing its a gearbox/torque thing? but novice in these areas so would like to be enlightened.

jes*b wrote:Gents - ive just done a smooth 2000miles to italy and back in my 130hp PD tdi passat, still getting broken in at 130k. got to thinking somewhere around Munich - why is the PD tdi not the engine of choice for t3 conversion, I am guessing its a gearbox/torque thing? but novice in these areas so would like to be enlightened.

Yeah you aren't far wrong. Historically it has been said that the Syncro 'box is good for 120 bhp but no one has come out and given a max torque figure and I wouldn't think 250 ft/lbs would take very long in shredding the gearbox's innards - your 130TDi having 250 ft/lbs or thereabouts of torque. These engines do find their way into the T3 but once in they dont retain the same output in the T3 as it did in its original installation as there are many differences in the two installations. Intercooler flow rates, inlet track, intercooler track, exhaust lengths etc etc ...... will all affect the specific output of an engine. Also of course the PD block is different so new mounts need to be made up.
My young lad has a 130 TDi engined Passat with over 200,000 miles up and pulls like a train but I have a feeling the dual mass flywheel needs to be looked at soon.

syncropaddy wrote:

jes*b wrote:Gents - ive just done a smooth 2000miles to italy and back in my 130hp PD tdi passat, still getting broken in at 130k. got to thinking somewhere around Munich - why is the PD tdi not the engine of choice for t3 conversion, I am guessing its a gearbox/torque thing? but novice in these areas so would like to be enlightened.

Yeah you aren't far wrong. Historically it has been said that the Syncro 'box is good for 120 bhp but no one has come out and given a max torque figure and I wouldn't think 250 ft/lbs would take very long in shredding the gearbox's innards -

Your bang on there. A little while back there was a thread about VW engine upgrades V standard ones or something like that, and I remember someone thinking that because an engine had more BHP on a rolling road it was some how more powerful than one with less BHP and followed with the rolly eyes smiley I know personally I wouldnt want to put any more "power" through the gear box I have now with the oiling plates fitted with the engine I have and I know the longer gears are tougher but you need the Power (torque) to turn them all around on the hills, not the BHP.

I remember there being a reply about getting figures wrong or something and bigger BHP being better but from what I can understand its about how the fuel and turbo boost is managed (especially with a VNT turbo ) and when you can see what your engine is doing on your laptop its abit more actual.

My Doka has 112bhp from new, my Westy has 110bhp from new and I would take a stab at the Westy being about 40%+ more powerful and gives about 40% more MPG with the extra power, but like you say Andrew I do hold back a bit as it is on the hills on the throttle to help the gear box out and dont really want to put all its power through it.

jed

There is an awful lot of torque available in 'G' if you have a PD engine ......

Power is how fast you hit the wall .............. Torque is how far you bring the wall with you !!

jed the spread wrote:Here Tom, have you got the Syncro air filter housing with the particle collector or the 2wd one? Also how is the ducting from the snorkel routed to the air filter? I really could do with a sniff around but I think you might have the same set up as mine that Russel reluctantly fitted this way after me pestering him I have just sorted a way around one of the problems that you could be interested in

jed

Mine is using 2wd canister. Post pic of yours and I'll do the same.

Got 33.5MPG last fill up and I'm not driving sympathetically.

ninja.turtle007 wrote:

jed the spread wrote:Here Tom, have you got the Syncro air filter housing with the particle collector or the 2wd one? Also how is the ducting from the snorkel routed to the air filter? I really could do with a sniff around but I think you might have the same set up as mine that Russel reluctantly fitted this way after me pestering him I have just sorted a way around one of the problems that you could be interested in

jed

PS you not the person I was talking about regarding the BHP

Mine is using 2wd canister. Post pic of yours and I'll do the same.

Come on play the game I am trying to help you

There is only one real way you can go using the Syncro one with the particle collector and the 90* angle.I have found a way of extracting more particles before it reaches the air filter too. I was addressing mine this morning and looked on BY at Rich's and on here at yours but they both fell short of an application on a Syncro set up. What you got than? also take a picture of inside the rear LHD wheel arch too and it might be helpful and sorted easily .

jed

Pics please !

Re. power/torque vs gearbox, the EJ25 in my camper has been running through a stock un-opened AAN box for getting on for 4 years and the box hasn't died yet. The EJ25 is 165bhp/226Nm, and I've tended to use it.. The AFN has comparable torque to the EJ25, so I think should be just about OK with a stock box. If Albins gears and oiling plates are fitted, the limit should go up considerably, but there are other weak points in the box eg. gear carrier casing, and even a PD130 may easily find these. The PD block is a very different beast, the sump pattern is different as well, so without going to absurd lengths a 15 degree install is needed. I would consider a DMF advisable with a PD to cushion the torque seen by the box.

Engine specs for reference:

Various petrols
2.1 WBX (DJ) 112bhp / 127 Nm
2.5 EJ25 165bhp / 226 Nm (167 ft·lb) (Needs 230mm Subaru turbo clutch IME)
1.8 G60 (PG) 148bhp / 225 Nm (166 ft lb)
2.9 VR6 (ABV) 190bhp / 245 Nm (181 ft lb)

TDI Engines
1.9 1Z,AHU 90bhp / 202 Nm (149 ft lb)
1.9 AFN 110bhp / 235 Nm (173 ft lb)

PD Engines
1.9 AWX 130bhp / 285 Nm (210 ft lb)
1.9 AVF 130bhp / 310 Nm (229 ft lb)
1.9 ARL 150bhp / 320 Nm (236 ft lb)

Thanks for the Data Andy

Good info for people who might consider what is a good realistic engine conversion-V-how it fits-V-MPG-V actual power etc, and it would seem I was quite a way off with my estimate of 40%+more power where it matters compared to a petrol engine from VW.

jed