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Re: Sunnivagon

Posted: 13 Jan 2013, 15:32
by meggles
Dr. B. wrote:I don't think I'll be able to drive this thing once it's finished - might just park it on the drive and stare at it for the rest of my days.

In between bike rides, of course. :D
Will Helen LET you drive it? That's more to the point :lol:

Re: Sunnivagon

Posted: 13 Jan 2013, 16:00
by LittleMissSunshine
I am actually considering having the gates and posts taken off the drive so I have plenty of room to reverse :D

Kev - was re-reading your thread this morning, watching the excitement build is something I am relating too :ok

Re: Sunnivagon

Posted: 13 Jan 2013, 16:56
by meggles
LittleMissSunshine wrote:I am actually considering having the gates and posts taken off the drive so I have plenty of room to reverse :D

Kev - was re-reading your thread this morning, watching the excitement build is something I am relating too :ok
Mind those steps!!!!

Re: Sunnivagon

Posted: 13 Jan 2013, 21:32
by LittleMissSunshine
:lol:

Re: Sunnivagon

Posted: 13 Jan 2013, 21:33
by Plasticman
Well.last bit of the n/s step cut out, this shows how nice the new snips have shaved a sliver of the inner edge
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layed in plasce prior to welding , again ,make it fit correctly and it will make life easier
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at the rear end the last part butt welds to the arch as per oe
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first tack.note i havent spotted the inner row of holes yet, reasons are that i have set this part in the correct position and have bowed the part l to right, i now concentrate on tacking the outer edge and getting it as near perfect as possible then seam weld it, after this i clamp the cetre down with grips prior to spotting and as this will be pulling against the bow I put in it and will give the step a natural resistance to the weight of feet if that makes sense
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rear inner welds
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outer part now seamed and butt welded to the arch panal,
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just needs an easy run over with a softpad and zero filler :D
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big cyl of argoshield is empty :cry: so no more playing till tomoz
mm

Re: Sunnivagon

Posted: 15 Jan 2013, 00:31
by Plasticman
Well gassed up and running again,migged the spot holes up and have run a softpad over them,
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quick coat of product to keeop the rust away, looks a bit rough but better when the paint has dried,,,,
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again its deciding where to make the cut
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this will do as id prefer not to make an overlap join on th arch the same way the pattern stuff does,
first bit of arch off to get a better look and feel for it, C post is very good, just the faintest trace of light rust staining at the rear side of the spots
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this gives a better look at the post and also ive removed a bit more :lol:
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well a lot more really
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cleraned up and removed the unwanted from the donor part
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and working out just whereabouts to make the join
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heres good as the front of the arch is good,
this van is so much better on this side , the top wishbone ,I can wipe the dirt off and its glossy black paint whereas the other side is thick corrosion...
mm

Re: Sunnivagon

Posted: 15 Jan 2013, 07:04
by LittleMissSunshine
The difference is a real surprise, maybe it was a cut and shut long ways :lol:

Quite relieved to hear phrases like 'the c post was good :lol: ' Looks like fun :D

Re: Sunnivagon

Posted: 15 Jan 2013, 13:37
by mm289
metalmick8y wrote: Image
so now we have this origami in the making
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i took the liberty of making the basic part prior to cutting the old of as it was used as a rough guide
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Nice bit of folding there Mike :ok

What "product" do you throw in the seams from the outside to replace the weld thru?

Pics of the fridge panel repair are great, will you be showing any of the top of the lower panel join once you have leaded it in?

Of work with flu so giving me a chance to read this through and catch up with your labours :)

Cheers,

MM

Re: Sunnivagon

Posted: 17 Jan 2013, 22:25
by Plasticman
Well back to it, got the ns arch trimmed and ready for fitting, ,as said earlier ,the B post is mint so clean up the weld area and a coat of weld thru on both parts
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fit of the arch/B post is good enough
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thgis is how ive chopped the old and new to join it, Im keeping the welds to the area under the rubber mat, it will still be neat and ground off but it doesnt need to be a good a finnish as if i did the join else where, again Im choosing not to fit it the same way as a repro for the obvious reasons given earlier
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front end
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very quick tacks these also cause the 2 sides to warp and move about, so use this to advantage to close and level it, when properly welded i will go straight over these tacks
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mm

Re: Sunnivagon

Posted: 17 Jan 2013, 23:26
by xriss
we like that phrase "zero-filler" :D

Re: Sunnivagon

Posted: 17 Jan 2013, 23:37
by Plasticman
thought you was skiing :wink:
not quite zero filler just as theres not such a thing as zero filler, zero rust or zero oil leak , but 'minimal ' is a better chice of word,
anyhow its into paint next week so gotta get my skates on, :lol:
mm

Re: Sunnivagon

Posted: 18 Jan 2013, 00:06
by xriss
not getting lead on :lol:

Re: Sunnivagon

Posted: 18 Jan 2013, 07:08
by LittleMissSunshine
Eeeek paint! Must make decisions :lol:

Re: Sunnivagon

Posted: 18 Jan 2013, 09:09
by Plasticman
original white..decision made :lol:
mm

Re: Sunnivagon

Posted: 18 Jan 2013, 12:43
by jeffj
Try ? - Two tone. Lower section in pastel colour over white. Break line 1" above recess in body all round. Do not paint up windscreen pillars.

Very interesting blog with your body repairs mm. Also it just shows use the right tools for the job. I.E. Those tin snips doing just what you want.

Reminded me of the documentary watched the other night on the Costa Concordia disaster. One submerged rock just below surface of water impacting ships hull.

Under water footage was a similar image to your photo except that sliver of metal from ships hull was about 600mm x 60metres. Would use your quote "shaved a sliver" from hull.