Club 80-90 Forums

No those grit blasters are for close work in a narrow beam. The rubber hoods that come with kit are designed to be pressed directly against the metal and recycled back via the bag - ideal for seams but won't touch wheels fella. You need a proper industrial one for that which you couldn't do at home anyway. Give a job like that to a pro - its not that expensive.

Ok thanx for that. I got the wrong end of the stick!!

Other than leaving the cab doors open for 48 hours does anyone have a method for minimising the cab door seals sticking to the paint when being parked up after painting?

don't fully close them but ideally don't shut them or remove the seals.

Don't fancy leaving my doors open all night in the street.

I'll have to paint that bit first thing so it gets a good few hours to skin. I've got new seals on that are secured with the glue that binds the universe together so I can't remove them this time

Vaseline on the rubbers? Matron.

If you leave doors open most of the day, just run a smear of vaseline around the seal before you shut up shop and then open them again as soon as possible.

After spending the easter weekend carefully hand sanding van with 1500 grit then hand cutting i had found that i could still not get any shine out of my paint thought it was because was not using a polisher like in dvd, so decided to go out and buy one to speed up job, 4 1/2 hours later on the front nose panel. you could still see like water marks through paint and it will not gloss up to a shine ? not sure if you could see 2 different lyers of paint? looks terrible and at a loss what to do next. will try and take some pictures later to explain more. maybe its a lot less forgiving as its such a dark colour.

When did you actually paint it?

Hi Covkid.
Did first coat june last year, second one early september and the final one in feb when we had that mini heatwave for a just over a week.

Bloody weather. Cracked t'flags this morning and I got the nearside painted in a nice warm sun, then just as I finished the offside it started spitting.

Crap "The nearside is dry enough but how can I save my fresh paint on the offside?"

I knew recycling boxes would come in handy

Four lids placed on the gutter with four boxes filling in the gaps between the lids with the alley wall finishing the shelter.

The rain then came down harder for about 30 mins and now it's sunny again and disaster averted

Hey Guys,

I have a few questions concerning painting a van with Rust Oleum Combi Color.

1. Do I need to add any thinner or hardener, if yes what types of and how much of each.
2. Is it neccessary to sand the first coat before starting with the 2nd coat?

Regards
Tobi

Start at this thread from the beginning

2020mad wrote:After spending the easter weekend carefully hand sanding van with 1500 grit then hand cutting i had found that i could still not get any shine out of my paint

I had a lovely shine after the first few coats...and then decided on a final coat and am now wishing I hadn't as it's patchy and the shine has gone. I can't think of anything I've done different, the only thing I can guess is that perhaps the humidity was too high or the temperature too low and it's affected the finish. I'd used the same thinners on all coats so I don't think that's the issue. The weather seemed ok on the day but perhaps the evening's affected it, I'm not sure.

The other thought was weather the paint has to be stored at any particular temperature. My tins have been in a chilly garage over the winter - I wouldn't have thought that would have made a difference but I'll soon find out if I put another coat on.

Did you try another coat on yours 2020Mad?

Silky

tobbibaum wrote:Hey Guys,

I have a few questions concerning painting a van with Rust Oleum Combi Color.

1. Do I need to add any thinner or hardener, if yes what types of and how much of each.
2. Is it neccessary to sand the first coat before starting with the 2nd coat?

Regards
Tobi

Tobi, as stated earlier you really need to read the thread. White spirit is the thinner, no hardener required and sanding is necessary but follow the guidelines. The DVD/Video is supposed to be really useful too. You can make a really presentable job but it isn't just a case of splash it on and see. Good luck with it.

^^^ What he said. The DVD's great and saves reading through all the thread, it's definitely worth watching it before you start splashing on the paint.

Silky