Club 80-90 Forums

silverbullet wrote:New flywheels made by JP are steel, not iron! Absolute bargain, integral ring gear but who has ever changed one?
No sign of any balancing on this one, I'll still get it checked once on the crank.

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I wondered who was going to buy that last one! I'd been waiting for these for weeks (which turned into months), but I desperately needed flywheels and took 7 units for regrind. Then these arrived on the website the next week (aaargh!). Oh well, the regrinds are really nicely done, cheaper (but not much) and will keep me going for now.
Does the JP one have the centre insert to retain the felt ring?

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if it doesn't then it will be easier to use the diesel spigot bearing with integral seal, the wbx design is a bit pants having to remove the flywheel to replace the spigot bearing

They dont come with the felt ring retainer, I was going to knock some out of "dead" burned/cracked flywheels but having said that, good point about using the diesel spigot bearing. Part number for ref?

I did buy a few felt rings too (because the ones in all the kits are the wrong size...)

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056 105 313 C
LUK 410 0009 10

Aidan wrote:if it doesn't then it will be easier to use the diesel spigot bearing with integral seal, the wbx design is a bit pants having to remove the flywheel to replace the spigot bearing

Top tip! Cheers, Aidan.

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A little "rough road package" tinkering. The small one needed a bit (a lot) of straightening out and I needed advice as to where it fits: all now worked out thanks to some info via fb from Alika in Hawai'i!

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they are a complete a*** to fit as they go onto the studs sticking up from the rubber bearer mounts, I had them on the SA van I had, when I fitted the new VW engine they didn't go back in, the studs being long make it very awkward compared to the bolts you've used protem

Yes, the water pump one looks like a bundle of laughs, but what with all the pulleys being 115mm further back I think it wise to fit them.
I also tacked up the cut exhaust manifold so that its a good pattern/guide for whoever remakes it, I'm going to try these guys https://demandengineering.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Staged shot for exhaust quote

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A bit of after-hours metrology.
Crank in new bearings (lovely and snug in the case) and a length of 25mm ground silver steel (dead size and straight), also in new bearings.
Vernier to get the ball park figure, then bring out the Russian slip gauges for a super-accurate figure.
This is all to provide the gear-cutters with the true running centre dimension, which they need to acheive minimum backlash, first time.

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Oil pump is now modified (shortened the driven gear boss by ~4mm and pressed the gear off its spindle to do the same)
Clearances look ok, so I offered up the new stainless coolant transfer pipes to see what was occurring there. I have had worse fitting pipes from Gunzl before now!
I think this is far better than the original restrictive pinched pipe, so cylinders 1/2/3 can now get full coolant flow...

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After a good bit of tweaking and grinding, they line up! Had to remove most of the flange from one edge of the oil pump cover and it will have to be secured with button head screws, not studs and nuts because there just isnt the space.

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...and so we move on to the dipstick stay.
I "unpicked" a 2wd one by using the trusty powerfile to cut through the spotwelds, reshaped the short stay part (several times, its soft steel) and then did a series of worst case mockups to check for belt clearance in all positions of the alternator.
Fire up the ARO spot welder tomorrow and that's another bit done.

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Dipstick stay mk2. Better belt clearance, looks right and now actually points towards the inspection hatch.

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I also did some comparative measurements against a wbx4 fitted with a syncro oil filler tube, taken from the breather plinth and the bellhousing face to the oil filler cap:
The wbx6 is only 20mm longer overall (600 vs 620mm), but 60mm less tall (160 vs 100)
It appears to be a modified early 2wd filler, and might even be a 2wd wbx6 part (recalling that the ecu says 3.2 auto on the chip!)
A reworked one may be needed to bring the filler cap into the optimal height for syncro application, even though both filler caps are positioned inline with the RH top bellhousing bolt.


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