Club 80-90 Forums

Hi all quick question on rollering.

Minimum time between coats?? I have the use of a large, heated dry workshop for 4 consecutive days - is there any way of getting the paint finished in 4 days!?

Any thoughts gratefully recieved.

Tom

24 hours between coats but if you're intending to flat down between coats you'll need a lot more than 24 hours. The paint can stay soft (in my experience) for at least 3 weeks unless you have a lot of heat in that garage.

Thanks - I take it its 100% necessary to flat between coats if you want a decent finish?

Opinion is always split on this when spraying celly, and Ive aseen great results laying the top coats down within 10mins each other than a good flat on the top coat with a polishing mop and G5 / G3 cutting compounds

Is the same possible with rustoleum (not the 10 mins bit!)

It really depends on how good you are with the roller. Don't have too thick a mix and you should be able to get first two coats on without flatting but in my experience it really helps to have a friend follow behind with their eyes and quickly point out any roller flaws so you can pick them up quickly. Good lighting essential for this!

After a few requests the colour of our van is 6011

I hold the individuality licence within 50 miles of the Lancashire border

Outside this zone a T3 can be rollered this colour but cannot enter said exlusion zone other than to pass through via Motorways

And even then must nod approvingly in the general direction of Cruz's home.

Aldi are selling air compressors and tools yesterday and thurs 15th.
Shot blaster for £9.99!
http://www.aldi.co.uk/uk/html/offers/of ... nday12.htm


Might be worth it for them seams.

We've tried and tested the shot blaster. It is excellent for doing seams!!! You only get a 5mm concentrated spot but it cleans out rust brilliantly. Definately worth getting.

My van's now sporting a number of coats of Rustoleum but I'm finding the finish on the recent coats is more of a satin sheen than gloss. I'm not doing anything different to my first coat except that I'm getting bubbles out much better now. The finish is a little inconsistent in places, in one or two sections it's still glossy, others not so. I tried t-cutting and polishing one of the satiny sections, I still couldn't get back to the gloss of the first coat.

The van still looks good (a damn sight better than when I started) but having spent a lot of time on the prep I'm disappointed that I didn't just stick with the first coat now, it looked more finished.

I've found a post online with a similar problem of an inconsistent finish, has anyone else come across this issue?

Silky

Probably needs flatting with 1200 grade (used wet) to restore the sheen if you're struggling to get the gloss back. Then finish with Tcut or similar.

Been trawling through this thread now for a while and some fantastic advice and information, nice one covkid. Anyhows a quick question, if all the bodywork goes as planned ill be rolering mine next month, weather permitting. Until then I have to keep the new shiny bits covered in primer. Ive since heard that its generaly porous and will let water through so whats the best primer to use until I can get the rustoleum on. Cheers daz

Vactan - unless you've stripped all the paint. When it comes to rollering, just sand it away.

Cyrus wrote:Aldi are selling air compressors and tools yesterday and thurs 15th.
Shot blaster for £9.99!
http://www.aldi.co.uk/uk/html/offers/of ... nday12.htm


Might be worth it for them seams.

CovKid wrote:We've tried and tested the shot blaster. It is excellent for doing seams!!! You only get a 5mm concentrated spot but it cleans out rust brilliantly. Definately worth getting.

Is that the usual one? The nozzle looks strange

Kit normally comes with a selection of different sized rubber housings so you can get the nozzle close against the work. Yes its the same one. Pic shows housing with a slit - ideal for seams actually but there are all sorts in the box. You'll go through grit fast and you MUST wear full goggles NOT glasses. Even with the housings, you'll still get stray grit. As always though, unless you can get to both sides of a seam, rust will come back - just slower.