Club 80-90 Forums

I like it. Only needs a row of Dickens novels in the background and it'll be like a Gentlemans club

Looking good, it's amazing how quickly Rustoleum transforms a van.

Just a question about "blooming"...

One small section of my van bloomed when a frost set in one night, it's basically left it with a matt finish. Not great if it's a top coat but as this is the first of a couple of coats, it actually looks like it'll be a good base layer - it's the right colour but without a high sheen that needs knocking back before the next coat.
Can blooming actually be an advantage in this situation? It makes me wonder whether to finish the missing bits of the first coat while it's still cool (not currently but when it gets to around 10-11 degrees) so that it's a good substrate for a shiny layer.

Just a thought....

Silky

Best to avoid damp atmosphere or cold temperatures but subsequent coats should eradicate the problem. I've said this many times but April/May really are the best months to work outside. Too early and you risk frost or rain marks, too late and you'll be fighting with the bugs.

Some more foam brushes here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12PC-Foam-Pai ... 5d32613764" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

As usual this years rustoleum coat (number 3 of 4 - I can never get round to doing two in a year ) is going to be done before a major holiday. It always seems to be that way.

Were going to France at the end of April and I've decided just to do the sides of the van (little bits of rust have appeared again there), and leave the front and rear for when we come back. So I'll be starting flatting next week, weather permitting. Some of the seam sealer is starting to come away and the bubble rust has started again so that needs doing. Then I'll get the paint coat on in late march or most likely mid april (easter gets in the way too).

So fingers crossed winter bogs off and the weather warms up in march and april. Usually though in April you get some warm and very warm days but cool damp nights so if I get ready for painting early moring when the sun has warmed the air it will give it a good few hours to skin over before the evening temps drop about 9pm (clocks have gone back then too)

Cruz, grit blast the seams. ALDI do a mini grit blaster from time to time for about £8 and it really does get in where a dremel can't reach, revealing shiny metal. It does a concentrated spot of about 5mm but you can gently run it down the seam and it clears the lot. Dribble of Vactan for extra protection then seal/paint etc.

Might be making work for myself but I'm considering following the process for the first two coats using a roller and then, after flatting, spray a final coat. What do you reckon?

Yes, can work but might be better if you rollered primer then sprayed Rustoleum. Some still do it this way in the trade.

CovKid wrote:Yes, can work but might be better if you rollered primer then sprayed Rustoleum. Some still do it this way in the trade.

Thanks. I was just thinking the first couple of coats rollered on would body it up, then the final spray coat may give an almost "off the gun" finish. I have a spare door I can practice on so I'll try the rolled primer then spray idea first.

CovKid wrote:Cruz, grit blast the seams..

I wish I had access to a compressor

Honestly, its really worth doing otherwise rust comes back before you know it. Ask around, someone may be able to do it for you - takes 10 mins at most. I don't have a compressor either - I just go hunt for someone who does Small local garage might be up for it if you sweep up after. Its not as if you're blasting the hull of a ship so it won't make too much mess. DO wear goggles though - glasses will not be enough. Ask me how I know

Had a quick play with my da sanders at the weekend and had some good results.
Does anyone know if you can get 125 mm wet and dry sanding,(hook and loop) discs? I can't find them online anywhere.
Cheers

Sounds a bit fierce to me. You must remember that the rougher grades create grooves that can be hard to eradicate. I wouldn't go lower than 350 unless I know I can put right any scouring.

I should add, I know it can be frustrating when it feels you're not making any impression but its better to go slowly that tear through it. The rubbing down can take some considerable ime but the good news is the painting can take minutes so every effort you make here will pay off in the painting. It might be different if someone in the past has used hammerite in which case paint stripper would probably be a better bet. If the underlying paint is well bonded, you only need a smooth but keyed finish.

Finally, the cheaper wet and dry doesn't last as long.

Sorry my bad grammar

I have a 125mm da and trying to find some hook and loop, wet and dry pads for it.
I can't find any online.
Could I used water with normal pads? ( I think they'll go to mush??)
As you say I don't want to rush the prep I just want to get it right but to make it as easy as poss. I hate sanding by hand.

What a great day for putting a coat of paint on, and i'm stuck at work.

oh well will just have to spray door gaps tonight instead, and wait for a warm weekend to get my hopefully 3rd and final layer on my bus

Hi all,

as the cold winter season seems to be passed, I'll start to rollerpaint my VW LT 28 (1989's) in the next coming weeks (end of March). I've to prepare first the body (sanding old ugly paint off, cutting some rusty parts out of the body and welding some new one in;...).

Afterwards I'll roller paint my lovely LT.

Does somebody have figures, how many liters of Rustomleum I'll need for a 3 or 4 layer paint roller job?

For sure more than for a T25, as the LT is a quite bigger.

Thanks a lot in advance for all valuable replies.

Best regards.

Thomas