Club 80-90 Forums

Yes, glass half full. I got my pressure gauge today so might get to do a test on the weekend. I may change the carb and manifold but it's not really a priority right now as long as it's not causing damage. I was happy enough with the power before the rebuild so it really doesn't bother me too much.

Speaking of oil, I have a fairly regular drip coming from the nearside rocker cover. Is that something to be worried about or is it sufficient to seal it up with a bit of grease? Does oil that comes up through the push rods just work its way back through the tubes to the tappets. I'm struggling to see how it's supposed to get back from the heads?

Yeah the oil drains down the tubes back into the sump.

Remove the covers and refit the gasket - there are silicon ones available now too which probably provide a better seal

937carrera wrote:Yeah the oil drains down the tubes back into the sump.

Remove the covers and refit the gasket - there are silicon ones available now too which probably provide a better seal

Thanks Carrera. You and Paul are a wealth of knowledge for a novice like me!

Oooh, careful, I'm still learning

Here’s the inlet manifold on my doner engine.



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Yep, that's for a DG

both my vans have a tendancy to leak on the near side head at the front of vehicle

I have resorted to sticking the cork seal to the cover with dirko before. The seal is wider than the cover flat so a pool of oil collects there.

Can't really explain why nearside except its further to front of van and I think the engine is not mounted dead flat.
either that or my land isn't dead flat.

as said big holes in tappet bores back to sump just above tappets, oil is pumped by tappet up push rod.

937carrera wrote:Oooh, careful, I'm still learning

We are all learning, even the professionals they just won't admit it.

I have said it before ...an expert is just somebody who got the information a bit before you did.

Thanks Paul. I’ll try the dirko option.



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Thanks carrera. Good to know I have the right inlet for a DG.

Can anyone confirm if this is the correct carb for a DG. I have an option to buy it but it needs a complete rebuild. Is that a big/expensive job? If it’s the right carb model, I might get it as a future project option rather than as a priority.

Thanks in advance.







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Ask for a photo of the carb number.
2e3s were made for many vehicles

it starts 025...

Hi Paul. The owner says he can’t see a serial number but sent on photos .
Can anyone confirm if this is a 2e3s?






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here is the number if it's not there it sounds dodgy.

I did my oil pressure test this evening. I am running MPM Multi-grade 15W40 (first mistake right?). The oil pump I put in is a new BW one but I re-used an old cover.

Here are my rather sad results:

Cold:
Tick-over @ 800 rpm: 1.5 Bar (24psi)
2000 rpm: 4 Bar (58psi)

Hot (80 Deg C)
Tick-over @ 800 rpm: 0.25 Bar (5psi)
2000 rpm: 0.5 Bar (10psi)



The plan for tomorrow is to change the Bosch filter for a Mann and to fill with Halfords 20W50 and try again.

I drained the 15W40 oil this evening and there were some black specs and a gray sheen/haze but no grit. Hopefully no damage so far as I've only done about 20 miles in total since the rebuild.

Anyone got any other recommendations?

Oh dear, that doesn't look so good, are you sure the measurements are correct, including the gauge ?

The cold pressure of 4 bar looks fine, it's the pressure at 2000 rpm when hot that is most concerning

Just to save me re-reading the whole thread, this is a rebuild, early cases so no DOPS system, with new crank & main bearings isn't it.the oil pump without a gasket

Is the oil warning light on at tickover - given those readings it should be

Does the pressure go higher if you take it to 3000 rpm - that will probably be the max you will see

I suspect the best advice will be to refit the oil pump without a gasket......