Club 80-90 Forums

silverbullet wrote:Thanks, but I have now got the correct ones coming: 52mm hole, 16mm inside the neck.
Its a nerdy detail, considering that its a conversion from carb to efi, but its ALL in the details.

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Glad you have it sorted.

Now available on the Brickwerks webshop:
https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/wiring-gro ... i-tdi.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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I had another thought on the "problem" 20.5mm thrust, considering doing the same arrangement as was used before (modified Type 4 rear bearing) but combined with a later wbx "suffix B" thrust washer instead of the two-piece inline thrust, which probably only failed due to low oil pressure.
At least this way I can easily replace/re-set the thrust clearance without a full strip-down.
Pic is of the old bearings btw

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Got the call to say it was ready, dashed down to OCS to collect. Top lads there, work is faultless.

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Would they have charged differently for work on diesel journals ? and did they come to the conclusion you had given them a Porsche engine to work on ?

E D I T, presumably they would have charged the the same whether working on a sports car engine or a van engine!

Noticed that too. Porsche - Good guess I suppose, can’t be many inline 6 boxers.

Horizontally opposed 6 or flat 6 would describe it better.Sorry to nit pic.

Yes you’re right. Wasn’t thinking.

OCS work on everything from semi-diesel single stationary engines right up to modern truck engines.
I dont think that there's anything that they haven't seen.
Someone probably wrote "Porsche" because they saw an alloy flat 6 and "Oettinger" is a bit meaningless to anyone who doesn't know them!
They also checked the crank for balance but it was found to be bob on, so no charge

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Look at that finish! Now to work out the best approach for the rear thrust: the late wbx "full circle" washer rattles about in the counterbore, I don't want to go back to the inline 035 split washer arrangement so it may require further work to receive some sort of carrier for the wbx thrust that will keep it all concentric.

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Current running order for works:

1. Camshaft blanks. Get them part-finished/welded and away for profiling and heat treatment.
2. Repair/extend or remake engine loom. (Andy @ Syncrosport)

While those are out:
3. Clean crankshaft, re-plug the cross-drillings and build up with new rods.
4. Exhaust guides: replacewith oversize "top hat" guides (see 2500 pic) and lap valves, 30° back-cut etc and assemble heads.
5. Weld the cut exhaust header and patch up for test run. Speak to Hayward & Scott.
6. Improve sump baffle plates.
7. Source a Type1 3-bolt 30mm oil pump.
8. Re-work remote oil pressure switch pipe & fuel reg bracket.

Should keep my busy.

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Can't remember if I shared this before?

LH side of the engine mounting bearer has cracked in the corners. Not sure if its fatigue (might have only had a wave washer, not a full-size heavy form one) or dissimilar metal induced corrosion/pressure.

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What are you going to do with it- a bit if tigging ?

Nah. Scrap bin and use a fresh one (suitably modded to clear the oil pump), not worth the effort if its that badly cracked. Not sure that VW die cast parts weld that well anyway?

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So Andy at Syncrosport is still going ?
His website and contact have been dead for ages