Club 80-90 Forums

itchyfeet wrote:

Smiffo wrote:Yes, even my Solex was wired as switched 12v live.

Do you mean thermoswitched or ignition switched?

Switched ignition.
It may make sense with a Solex, as there is no coolant flowing through it to warm it up that way.

by the way the post in this box wires to altenator, which wires with fatter wire to starter which wires to even fatter wire to battery, As I say there is no fuse so don't go shorting it to anything while you unscrew it.

Ah Ok - thanks for the `heads-up..`

Let me know what you conclude with the choke aspect though.
I would like to know how someone else's van is wired up, apart from just ours - for my own knowledge really - an early and late example that was deffo DG from factory would be good to see.

As I said I have seen three or so late vans with choke heater on ignition 12v with origional wiring.

itchyfeet wrote:As I said I have seen three or so late vans with choke heater on ignition 12v with origional wiring.

An early van might be good to see then.
Anyway - I will crack on with what I have now.

Get the tank in, do these fuses when I source some male spade connectors, and wait for my bleeder rail to arrive.

Oh, then try and work out what I have done wrong when something doesn't work right

I used spades so I didn't have to cut original connectors off and it was before these were available If I did if again I would use Wago 222 connectors, great invention, I use them now when I can, available from screwfix or ebay, fully insulated, maintenance free spring loaded contacts, 2, 3, and 5 way, tiny up to 4mm2, 32Amp, reusable, strip, open lever, whack it in and close lever, what more could you want?

Oh you want more? look for the new 221, smaller and clear so you can see whats going on inside.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/3-way-lever-c ... f-50/76776" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Now I have my job lined up for tomorrow:

Done the bits in the fuse/wiring box tonight, as I wanted to get on with it in the hour I have before I go out:



I managed to salvage a male spade by cutting them out of the 12v switched supply circuit.

This means I now have enough to finish the carb end tomorrow.
I'm going to wait until it's light to do that end - some are short and need doing properly - I don't want to `butcher` it.

Also, although those Wago connectors are fine in the wiring box, I'm not keen on having them hanging round the engine like a bodge job, so I will probably solder and use some heat shrink that I have lying around that end, just to keep it tidy looking.

Question Itchy - Where should the Pierburg earth strap to the engine come from?

No earth wire to carb, it connects via manufold/ engine/gearbox/earth strap to body.
The carb electrics are all simple resitive loads so gearbox earth is fine.

The reason the ignition needs a seperate earth to the left hand head by the distributor is because it is a fast changing dynamic load, the gearbox earth is not enough for the ignition.

Smiffo wrote: Also, although those Wago connectors are fine in the wiring box, I'm not keen on having them hanging round the engine like a bodge job, so I will probably solder and use some heat shrink that I have lying around that end, just to keep it tidy looking.

Now you have fuses you can bodge it however you like (assuming you fitted two fuses)

Oh no no no no no....

It's about the aesthetics itchy lol.
Shame about the outside though

Smiffo wrote:Oh no no no no no....

It's about the aesthetics itchy lol.
Shame about the outside though

Italian cars look good, need I go on?

itchyfeet wrote:

Smiffo wrote:Oh no no no no no....

It's about the aesthetics itchy lol.
Shame about the outside though

Italian cars look good, need I go on?

I'm hoping to achieve both..!!

Finished the wiring aspect.

I decided to make up my connectors/wiring by using Soldering and heatshrink method.
Only my second time doing it, so it was a bit tricky.

Did what I could inside the house as it's blowing a gale out there..!!
I also used the salt water and vinegar trick to make sure the copper was nice and shiny.
I ended up putting a bit more solder on this pic below, just to ensure the wire was covered, but this gives an idea to how I did it.




Then did the next one in the van, which was my method of extending the loom to reach the Pierburg Fuel cut off and Choke.

Solder joint and heatshrink pic below:



Which gave me this pic below of the finished 12v switched circuit:

I then stopped short of soldering for the Thermostatic switched circuit.

Two reasons - the cable is thicker and would be harder to solder in this weather, and secondly I had to splice into the existing to manifold heating circuit to connect the throttle body wire from the Pierburg.

In the end, I decided to go the Wago route, as that was the tidiest method of connecting 3 wires with the equipment I had:



Not perfect, but the best options I think.
Just need to strap them up a bit, and we are there on the wiring part....

Both circuits are as tidy as I can make them, and better still, they are fused now too