Club 80-90 Forums

kevtherev wrote: This is the low oil pressure switch 0.3 bar.
It detects the pressure in the lifter gallery.
Should it drop below 0.3 bar the oil light illuminates.

Perfect, thanks Kev - I guess that makes it the blue one then. Your thoughts on adding a second one, rather than just blanking the port on the right hand bank? Do you know the switch principle? I'm guessing that high oil pressure opens the switch (breaks the circuit), so with two in parallel I'd get a low pressure warning if either switch was closed - added redundancy. Is that how it works? If it works the other way round (high pressure closes the circuit) then I'd only get a warning if BOTH switches are open.

E D I T - I've just noticed your update to your earlier post. I guess I'll just blank that side off then.

kevtherev wrote: the temp switch on the distribution is for the manifold, carb (de ice) and autochoke heater control, it triggers a relay (No. 1) in the junction box to turn off the heaters at 87 deg C (I installed a manual switch for this, to chose when all those amps were used)

You don't know the part number by any chance do you? I can't see anything that fits this description on the Brickwerks site.

CJH wrote: You don't know the part number by any chance do you? I can't see anything that fits this description on the Brickwerks site.

Is the switch on the distributor a screw in type?

035 919 369C



thermal switch
55/65C ,M10x1 2 pin white / DF,DG,EY

https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/0359193 ... 0x1-white/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
also fitted to early golfs

Yep, that looks like the one, thanks Kev. Duly added to my current shopping basket with VW Heritage.

Deceptive photo though - looks like they've tried to disguise the spade terminals to look like the coolant level pins in the header tank.

CJH wrote: And what should I do with the switch hole on right side - just blank it off?

late dg has the second switch hole by the waterpump, are you saying 2.1 has it on the right hand side?
Bentley shows it the same for dg and dj by the waterpump in an adapter.
If it were me I would fit the grey sensor and wire it to an led, switch should be closed most of the time only going open at low revs below 2000 rpm hot, with a good pump it may never go less than 0.9 bar except when engine not running as a test state.
Late dash has a rev counter circuit which only looks at this over 2000rpm

P1090180 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

itchyfeet wrote:.. are you saying 2.1 has it on the right hand side?

I was saying that, but without checking

I don't actually have either half of the case with me at the moment to check (both are at the machine shop again) - I think I must have been assuming the second sensor was in a similar place to the first. An LED sounds like an interesting idea - I'll investigate that further. In fact, is this a suitable place to put a sender for an oil pressure gauge?

No unfortuneately the fan belt and tinware is really close. You can't even put an oil presure guage sender in the side position without a remote T Adapter as its down between the push rod tubes.
wet guage take off pipe may fit in side position with a standard t piece.
I doubt a remote t adapter will fit in the rear position.

Just bought a remote t piece tonight as I have a guage to fit...M10x1 0.5 m long

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LMA-Oil-Press ... 53fb7eb44a" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The T-piece is because you want to fit a gauge and retain the warning light function I suppose. Given that I don't currently have that secondary warning light function in my dash/loom, I really only need to fit a pressure sender if I want to add a gauge. I have no idea what a pressure sender looks like though - is it really that much more bulky than the grey pressure switch?

yes sender is much bigger than a switch and usually 1/8NPT thread mine is about 45mm in diameter and 70mm with the electrical connection.

I suppose you could fit the standard switch at the rear position but not sure if the pressure there is slightly different.

rear switch can just be seen here next to oil filter no room as you can see...

You will notice a light before you notice a gauge is at zero.

I fitted a wet gauge, simpler, cheaper and more accurate.
It's been in place for several years.

kevtherev wrote:You will notice a light before you notice a gauge is at zero.

Very true. Given the limited room I might start with a warning light and if I feel like adding a gauge later I'll use a remote T-piece in the port between the pushrods. In fact I've already got a redundant warning light in my dash (an old fridge power tell-tale) - I think I'll re-purpose that one.

Thread resurrection! Getting close to reassembly now. Various new parts to add to the spending tally - I'll see if I can remember what everything cost and update the thread soon.

In the meantime, another plea for advice.

Bentley refers to a dowel to locate the small crankshaft bearing at the pulley end (number 4), and indeed without it there would be nothing to keep the oil hole in the bearing lined up with the case. My engine case doesn't have this dowel - it's possible it came out with the old bearing and was long ago discarded. Does anyone know a) the spec, or b) where to get one? It would appear to be about 5mm diameter, and 5mm length. Is it just a plain steel solid cylinder, or a roll pin perhaps?

Is this the part

https://www.vwheritage.com/search/?act= ... btnSearch=

I wondered that, but their illustration shows them in bearings 1, 2, and 3 (where I don't need them), and not in bearing 4 (where I do). And the proportions look wrong too - if my measurements are close then the dowel should be as wide as it is tall. I suspect the linked item is for an Aircooled engine, rather than a WBX, despite VW Heritage listing it as being for a 'T25 80-92'.