Club 80-90 Forums

CJH wrote:

kevtherev wrote:IIRC VW started experimenting with chills in the casting block.
This was to facilitate a stronger crystalline structure in the alloy at certain stress points.
Often revealed as a lattice like pattern inside.

Like this you mean, or is my case just starting to crumble?


This is the back of one of the main bearings, so certainly an area that needs to be strong.

'fraid that's just shrinkage as the casting cooled

Gaskets, sealants etc:

As far as I can tell I should be using Dirko for the water jacket seals (both sides?), and I should be using this stuff (which has the same part number as this) for the head nuts.

I remember using Blue Hylomar on an engine build 30 odd years ago. Is this still recommended? Is it ok everywhere? Are there some gaskets that MUST go on dry? What should I use on the exhaust gaskets?

All advice gratefully received.

Either of these (dirko comes with Elring gasket set) for case halves joint and head seals

Then the yellow stuff in the little white tube on the head nut faces (but not on the threads).

WHS^^^ I'd get the Elring gasket set and it's all there

you can buy Dirko on ebay but there are different grades and I never worked out what the yellow stuff is exactly.

I put the black Dirko S on both sides of the water jacket seal, can't see any reason to do only one side myself, Haynes implies one side I suspect that's the reason for many seal failures!

Thanks gents

I bought a gasket set a while ago - not sure what brand it was, but it didn't come with any sealants unfortunately. I've already got some of this from Brickwerks, bought with a water pump which I haven't fitted yet. I'll have to check the tube to see which version it is. Doesn't seem to say 'S' specifically though. I'll check with Brickwerks to see if it's the right stuff for the head seals and the case halves?

The yellow stuff seems to be the stuff in the ebay link I posted above.

Any tips for the other gaskets and joints?

Dunno what went wrong with pics above, redone and ok now.

I have seen loads of sealant in the captive head nuts, which could hydraulic and ruin your torque settings. I do clean and oil head stud threads though. You want the correct torque to clamp the head, not twist the stud off!

ajsimmo wrote:Dunno what went wrong with pics above, redone and ok now.

Interesting - they looked OK in Tapatalk on my phone, but not on my laptop. Fine now though.

ajsimmo wrote:I have seen loads of sealant in the captive head nuts, which could hydraulic and ruin your torque settings. I do clean and oil head stud threads though. You want the correct torque to clamp the head, not twist the stud off!

Should this yellow stuff also be used under the four longer domed nuts that hold the case halves together?

If your gasket set had no sealenr you have to question the quality?
I have heard of oil pump seals being too thick for example.

Indeed. My oil pump came with seals anyway (really thin ones), but I take your point. It was a GSF 'Premium' quality set - can't remember the manufacturer.

Anyway, it's been opened now, so I'll be using it whatever.

CJH wrote:It was a GSF 'Premium' quality set - can't remember the manufacturer.

Victor Reinz

Yeah the GSF VR set comes without sealants, yet the VWH VR set (same part number?) comes with them. Gsf and separate sealants still cheaper on a 33% off jobby.

I have not used any extra sealant on exhaust, inlet manufold, carb, oil pump, water pipes to engine, water pump, oil filler pipe, push rod tubes or any o ring.
afaik its just the case halfs, water jacket seals and head bolts but I did read a post from marco mansi about putting some dirco around the oil pump, read it yourself here...


http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/wbx-o ... 78238.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

taken a couple of wbx appart to find clear silicone around the lower liner o ring seals...What the blithering heck

Sensors and switches:

Can anyone help me select the coolant and oil sensors and switches I need for the new engine?

Oil:
Brickwerks list a range of switches that differ by pressure range and are denoted by different colours. My van is a 1983 van, so I think I only have a single oil pressure switch. I crawled underneath yesterday and I can see a wire coming out from between the pushrod tubes on the left side, and nothing on the right side. But of course I can't (or won't attempt to) remove the cover plate so I can't see what colour that sensor is. And what should I do with the switch hole on right side - just blank it off? Does it make sense to put another identical switch in there and wire it in parallel with the first? Is that how they work - would two in parallel alert me of low pressure on either side?

Water:
I've found two water temperature sensors I think - are there any more? Again, it's an '83 van with the early cooling system, so there's a sensor in the thermostat housing (this one I think).
The second one is in the junction in the distribution pipe over the top of the engine, to the left of the distributor, and has two wires on spade connectors (I guess one is an earth since the pipe is insulated from the engine by rubber hoses). What does this one do, and where can I get a new one?
Are there any others?

CJH wrote:
Water:
I've found two water temperature sensors I think - are there any more? Again, it's an '83 van with the early cooling system, so there's a sensor in the thermostat housing (this one I think).
The second one is in the junction in the distribution pipe over the top of the engine, to the left of the distributor, and has two wires on spade connectors (I guess one is an earth since the pipe is insulated from the engine by rubber hoses). What does this one do, and where can I get a new one?
Are there any others?

No others.
the temp sender on the thermostat housing is for the gauge.
the temp switch on the distribution is for the manifold, carb (de ice) and autochoke heater control, it triggers a relay (No. 1) in the junction box to turn off the heaters at 87 deg C (I installed a manual switch for this, to chose when all those amps were used)

Note
On a 2.1 the two units are situated on the thermostat housing.
The gauge sender remains the same whilst the other turns into the temp II sensor for the injection system

CJH wrote:My van is a 1983 van, so I think I only have a single oil pressure switch. I crawled underneath yesterday and I can see a wire coming out from between the pushrod tubes on the left side, and nothing on the right side. But of course I can't (or won't attempt to) remove the cover plate so I can't see what colour that sensor is. And what should I do with the switch hole on right side - just blank it off? Does it make sense to put another identical switch in there and wire it in parallel with the first? Is that how they work - would two in parallel alert me of low pressure on either side?

This is the low oil pressure switch 0.3 bar.
It detects the pressure in the lifter gallery.
Should it drop below 0.3 bar the oil light illuminates.

There is no switch on the other side.
Another switch was later fitted next to the oil pump (0.9 bar) to monitor the oil pressure to the main bearings. (buzzer)