Club 80-90 Forums

Yes I know of Busprojekte, but everything is specific to either Tdi or Subaru that I can see. 350 yoyos for a pair of flanges? Ok they are nice but these ones have cost me nothing other than time.

Their 12mm sandwich plate looks good value for 125 Euro mind you...

These will do for now

Mad a special peg tool to get the cush drive dog bolt undone in the compressor nose, to see about shortening it. Simple ball races preloaded with a light spring, not quite sure why...

Raises a few more issues, mostly coolant related

To elaborate: I might just be able to do away with most of it and put the compressor drive pulley *behind* the crank pulley, so avoiding having an overhung 185mm x 25wide K6 pulley and all the problems that go with it.
But... I will have to rework the waterpump outlet that feeds the RH side of the engine and I was going to put the crank trigger wheel in there (as has been done by others)
The trigger wheel is thin and light though...

I seem to remember that on my shorrock setup on the beetle they would not recommend a toothed belt drive because the v belts allowed some give in the torque to the vanes , not sure that's relevant to a modern compressor though, but worth checking?

Ta. Different animal though. I would never use a toothed belt, just too noisy and sensitive to alignment.
It came with a modern 6 groove PK/polyvee belt and I am also considering going serpentine for all the ancilliaries (I have some pulleys left over from a past project that never made it to fruition) but that might give me a headache with the a/c compressor.

Sime basic dimensional info for anyone thinking of hunting down a UN1:
The 5th/reverse cover is 150mm long over the various shaft ends etc
The gearshift gate as marked is with the lever pointing down as per Renault. For a T3 it has to be completely reversed i.e. push is pull, L is R, so needs a little relay lever and some "rose" joints.

Best to allow 160 minimum to the mounting lug face:

The CV shaft centres are 70mm from the bellhousing face, the transaxle is 590 overall inc.10mm min. clearance:

The Diff centreline appears to be around 75mm below the input shaft/crankshaft axis (I scribed a line via an access hole in the side off the bellhousing) :

Might help someone chasing big petrol horsepower, you never know...

By way of a comparison, the 094 measures 80mm from CV shafts to the bellhousing face, circa 60mm vertical offset.

When installed in a petrol T3 there is only 460mm or so from the shaft centres to the back of the rear crossmember.
The UN1 needs 520mm to clear...

What's your plan to 'find' or 'lose' the 60 mm?

Cut rear crossmember and move the middle portion forward (all been done before) with reinforcement under rear bench along with other bodyshell stiffening.

Still playing with drive belts... this could be a possible solution i.e. a longer w/pump and alternator belt, using the a/c belt to also drive the relocated pas pump, then modding the crank pulley ao that the outermost pas groove carries a PK7 pulley to drive the supercharger.
But only if the PAS and a/c can be driven with around 120 degrees of belt wrap... other wise I will have to alter the a/c compressor to run a polyvee belt too and that will be a PITA....

aircon runs its own belt normally so 180' and the p/s pump is about 130' as is the water pump so they should be fine ?

Not sure about the wrap on the crank pulley, its barely 90' so worse than oem for the w/p; alt has plenty of wrap, of course.
Need to look at an EJ again to see what is acceptable with a polyvee belt.
Its going to need a couple of idlers if I go that route though.

Food for thought about belt wrap... I need to get more around the crankshaft:



No, I am not going Tdi...

Or do I just say "ah sod it" and beat the tinware back and hang the 'charger pulley off the end?



Thanks to Chris Corkins for the really clear shot

I think that I will be taking the easy option of mounting the blower drive pulley on the end of the 3-groove pulley, but I am concerned about the damn thing coming loose!
Giving some thought towards asking DPR to make me a 76mm full counterweight crank with an extended nose, so the pulley hub has more support.
I have an old RV8 crank pulley/damper with a 185mm PK7 polyvee pulley that also has interchangeable vee belt pulleys, so I can choose the sizes I need (within reason) and the bore of the hub means either it or the crank would machine to fit.
Unless, of course, I still go for the full serpentine setup, but the a/c compressor pulley is the tricky bit with that option.