Club 80-90 Forums

ah yes typo
edited also in the name of correctness.
Good to see you on here John

As suggested by tencentlife I have omitted the gasket and used Curil T on the pump cover, I used a rear gasket to draw on the cover because that is outside the grove, then using a paintbrush I applied Curil T in a thin layer on both sides, nuts and washers coated too, left 10 mins to dry then assemble.

P1060476 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Next I installed the pulley oil seal.

P1060478 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1060479 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

then pulled the flywheel off to finish off there, I already fitted a speedi sleeve and set end float by swapping shims back on page 5
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 0#p8162794" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

P1060480 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

this crank had no spigot shaft bearing so probably from an Auto, I fitted one from Brickwerks, tap it in with a piece of wood and a hammer.

P1060481 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

then add a shim retainer, this is a new one becuse I have to use mine on another engine

P1060482 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
the oil seal, and tap it flush.

P1060483 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1060484 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
then under flush about 1mm with an old oil seal, this makes the seal run more central on the speedisleeve, this needs to be done very slowly or it's easy to go too far.

P1060485 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

then o ring and felt ring in place

P1060487 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr


finally flywheel on and torque up bolts to 110Nm,a bolt in the flywheel stops it turning, I cleaned threads first with meths.

P1060488 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

I'm guessing that It's best to run this engine in on Petrol not LPG so thought it best to pull my finger out and rebuild the carb.

It started running very lean on petrol earlier in the year ( Air fuel gauge tells me that) and was gutless to accelerate, I Put the spare on but that's not great either.

This is the one that came with the van and has never been rebuilt despite me having the Brickwerks rebuild kit for about 7 years

It's looking like it may just have been the accelerator pump arm bent, can't see anything else wrong, perhaps a gasket leak.

P1060489 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1060502 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Hello,

OOOOOOoooooh full frontal carb porn...

Cordialement,

Even got a money shot for you John

Blew through every orifice with carb cleaner yesterday and left to dry overnight, if you do this be careful because it can squirt out of holes you never knew existed, get it in your eye and you will regret it.

P1060497 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

checked bypass valve was working when 12V applied.

P1060503 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

reassembled, adjusted and Mod to heater with chain link and cable tie because insulation always breaks here

P1060509 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ready to fit

P1060514 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Finally back on this.

Heads from WBX Mayo are good, so as mayo engine has a broken head stud (to be repaired later) it won't be needing these for now.
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 93&start=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

four steel studs snapped so drilled them out easy on the bench, never understand why people fit steel when stainless works well.

cut off the remainder and center punch, a small piece of vac hose gets it central
P1060664 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1060665 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

a long bolt acts as a very good visual guide to drilling to keep it square, started with a 3,5mm drill then slowly increased diameter until 8.3mm helicoil tapping size.

P1060667 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

tap it

P1060662 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

fit coil, snap tang.

P1060663 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

now stripped of valves and grinding valves and compression ring surfaces that have been previously scratched with a screwdriver
P1060692 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ran out of paste and time today.

It's great to see rebuilds in this kind of detail, passing on some really good tips. Thank you.

I agree with the oil pump thing. Probably best to omit gasket and use a smear of jointing compound. The oil pump on the DF I rebuilt a few years ago wouldn't prime at all until I threw away the gasket, then it worked instantly.

Thanks, until it's turned a mile or 500 I don't claim this to be a success

Seen a few engine rebuild where a school boy error has meant it all needs to come apart, it pays not to be overconfident.

Agreed. Measure everything. It's never too late to foul up a decent job.

I've just finished rebuilding my truck engine (Perkins diesel)................
The small end bearings were manufactured oversize and slack. Had to be replaced.
The "pretopped" pistons were 15 thou too high and would have smacked the head if not measured and topped off.
A couple of other parts were wrongly labelled and discovered through measuring. Reordered over Christmas. Lovely.

I hasten to add that all of the bad parts were pattern, not OEM. Buyer beware!

The one thing I'm unclear on is big end and main bearing wear limits, nothing in the manuals other than origional specs and no advice came when the question was asked.

itchyfeet wrote:The one thing I'm unclear on is big end and main bearing wear limits, nothing in the manuals other than origional specs and no advice came when the question was asked.

I've always just used common sense. Using vernier calipers, if the journal is out of round by a couple of thou, then it's worn. If it's still round, it's not. Ovality limit is generally about 1 thou. Look for scoring or wear with a jewellers eye glass thingy. The last 5 rebuilds I've done, the crank has been fine.

Excellent thread, well done and thank you

Thanks for the encouragement

Got some more grinding paste and finished off valves and compression ring sealing surfaces.

These are pics of a different engine but it shows my process, an old barrel is used with FINE grinding paste, even pressure rotate clockwise then anticlockwise, count the turns and do both chambers on each head the same ( even if the other doesn't need it so they are the same) until any deep scratches are gone, then I use 600 wet and dry with paraffin to clean up the green seal mating surface and take to harshness off the ground surface.

I should say this is an Aircooled thing and neither WBX engine I have tried it on has been run yet, fingers crossed.

P1060156 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1060157 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1060160 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1060163 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

valves ground, play measured and as shown earlier on page 8 and reassembled

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 5#p8165267" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

valve play is very good on both heads

P1060706 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Now the DJ is back on the bench ready for the heads to be fitted

P1060715 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Nice work

Getting excited Paul?! Can be your belated Christmas present to yourself.