Club 80-90 Forums

Crank bearing question please?

I Inderstand you have your crank reground if worn and fit undersize bearings but what is this set of us and os bearings for?

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/t ... x-all.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I would guess that they are for a reground crank in a line bored case

ah right, didn't think bearings could rotate in case so assumed it would never get worn.

Anybody know what is acceptable wear before a regrind?
I can't see anything in Bentley other than new spec.

Big ends is 55mm + 0.004 to - 0.017 new

I have - 0.013 to - 0.023 ( up to one thou) below new spec is that too much?

It's already been reground 0.25 us

I guess I could buy some big end bearings and see if con rods fall slowly or not.

this article says ...

http://www.aa1car.com/library/ar797.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The journal diameter itself should be within .001 in. of its original dimensions, or within .001 in. of standard regrind dimensions for proper oil clearances with a replacement bearing.

Swapped the correct 87 degC thermostat back and with correct 15W40 oil I'm happy with this healthy hot oil pressure

With the old engine and 2050 oil pressure took a dramatic fall at these temperatures reaching 1 bar at 2000 rpm

20160717_114926 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

20160717_115049 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

20160717_115055 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

looks like you need one of these pullers for the crank gears, nothing standard is getting in that thin gap between bearing and gear.



https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/AC00013 ... ar-puller/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/archiv ... 487--.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

tencentlife wrote: The regular Type1 gear puller also fits the wbx cranks, as David confirmed. The thin lip that grabs behind the steel gear can bend if the gears are really frozen on, though, so if you're having to use an excessive amount of torque and the gears aren't budging, it's time to move it to the press stand to avoid damaging the special tool.

This puller works well on a WBX even though it's listed as T1

Definitely need a big fat adjustable spanner on the puller to stop it turning and a 18+ inch breaker bar ( that picture above is a joke, like Haynes pictures)

Putting it back may not be so easy, this a crank out of a scrap engine so I'm just practicing.

P1040949 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1040950 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Stainless silencer ( used) fitted today

While underneath I noticed a small drip from the bell housing, I'm hoping just the seal bedding in or possibly the M16 sump plug for which I didn't have a washer, oil can move forwards under the engine need to keep an eye on that.

P1040951 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

itchyfeet wrote:This puller works well on a WBX even though it's listed as T1

Definitely need a big fat adjustable spanner on the puller to stop it turning and a 18+ inch breaker bar ( that picture above is a joke, like Haynes pictures)

Putting it back may not be so easy, this a crank out of a scrap engine so I'm just practicing.

Heat is your friend, gentley heat with blow lamp and the try to cool crankshaft by squirting with wd 40 (quick evaporation helps), putting back is a doddle, crankshaft in freezer for a while, heat gears and they drop on, make sure they go fully home though as as soon as they touch and shink they are a devil to move without damage

P.S. don't forget the bearing first and make sure it is the right way round (I used to be impatient, but have learnt by past mistakes, 'hopefully')

Thanks weimarbus I will try that.


I discovered today why my M16 copper washer does not fit, it's because I have an M18 sump plug in this WBX

I thought M16 was the limit but it appears not, this was a VW reckon engine so perhaps it was done then.

now to order some M18x22 copper washers ( PTFE used in the mean time)

1469781832 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Stainless exhaust is moving on....

Lambda boss welded into the second hand intermediate pipe by Powerflow Southampton, not the neatest welding I have seen but I couldn't do it

Brickwerks 1&3 and 2& 4 pipes have been test fitted to my old engine, the flanges are not dead square to the heads as you find with steel pipes and will need pulling into place when nuts are tightened, a bit worried that will stress the pipes but time will tell, I guess stainless pipes are thinner so warp a bit when welding, probably normal with all stainless systems.

So now to fit when I find time.

P1050073 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1050075 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Looking good Paul - do like those new Brickwerks link pipes. Deffo next thing on my list of bits to buy along with the coolant pipes!!

Stainless expands far more than mild steel as it warms up, the first few inches of the headers will soon get nicely annealed so the whole thing will settle in.
I have only seen one example of a cracked header flange on a stainless system, I think it was #2 on an early example without the tie rods/straps so probably nothing to worry about these days.

Thanks for the reassurance SB
my worry was based on the second hand system I bought where two of he head flanges were cracked. one on each pipe
This is why I have bought new.
It may not have been a Brickwerks system but I never saw anybody else making stainlees versions of the origional parts