Club 80-90 Forums

The Bentley method worked fine - one bolt tends to pop out before the other, so it takes a bit of invention to get the second one out once the first one no longer provides support.

Anyway, time for a 'before and after' photo - been cleaning the pistons. A very gentle brass wire brush attachment in my dremel works a treat - gentler even than wire wool. The "chimney sweep's brush" version is perfect for getting the soot out of the piston ring grooves, and the steel wire version does a good job of cleaning out the old sealant and rust from the two rubber seal grooves in the liners.

CJH wrote:The Bentley method worked fine - one bolt tends to pop out before the other, so it takes a bit of invention to get the second one out once the first one no longer provides support.

block of wood the right length?

itchyfeet wrote: block of wood the right length?

That would probably work. I wound a nut all the way up the bolt that was free, then filled the gap with another nut.

Just because everyone loves a 'before and after' comparison:

Remember those manky piston liners that were stuck in the head?


Here's one that's been honed and cleaned up.


Three have come up like this. Unfortunately one cracked while the machine shop was removing it from the head.

Engine serial numbers.

What can I tell from the serial number and markings on this DJ crankcase?

This is the serial number stamped below the breather tower. Is this just a date, or is it an incredible coincidence that mine is one of the few that has a serial number that matches one of the years this case was made? I believe the asterisk means it's been rebuilt, but can I tell who by, and what does the 'H' mean? Does this coincidental serial number mean that perhaps the original serial number has been ground off (it doesn't look like it) and replaced with a rebuild date?


There's a date stamp on the top of the case too. I assume this corresponds to the rebuild that is indicated by the asterisk in the serial number (so if the serial number is indeed a date then it's been rebuilt twice?). Does this style of date stamp suggest a particular rebuilder? It's all academic really as I'm redoing the lot, but it would be interesting to know how old the case is for instance. Can the original vehicle be traced from that serial number? Should I add my own date stamp somewhere do you think?

I have yet to see one that doesnt start and end with an asterisk. The 24/3/94 stamp is not OEM, not sure about the "H" stamp after the engine number.
Very early DJ though!
What is the suffix letter on the cases?
PS check the state of the O-ring grooves on the barrels, any pitting and they will leak.
I would guess that your engine was stored with a bit of old coolant laying inside and it has sweated inside for a while.

Thanks Ian

The case was rescued from a scrap yard, and yes it certainly looked as though it had been stored for a long time. The O-ring grooves are all clean as a whistle though, with one exception. Do I need to worry about the bit in this photo? The groove itself is fine, but the 'land' on the lower side of the groove has a tiny chip in it and some roughness next to the chip.


Re the serial number - early DJ it is then. And maybe a first for you Ian, since there's definitely no asterisk before the 'DJ'.

Re the suffix - is this what you mean?

I would think twice about that liner. Seems to be the common fail point rather than bore wear.
Ok so its a suff. B case which is the only type I would use, fwiw.

OK, thanks. I'm on the lookout for a liner anyway, so maybe I'll see if I can find two.

Out of curiosity, what is it about the 'B' case?

Suff B were the later type bearings, not the carry-over Aircooled type. Also there is a diagonal web across the alternator bracket mount on all bar the earliest suff B's. Think thats about all.

IIRC VW started experimenting with chills in the casting block.
This was to facilitate a stronger crystalline structure in the alloy at certain stress points.
Often revealed as a lattice like pattern inside.

kevtherev wrote:IIRC VW started experimenting with chills in the casting block.
This was to facilitate a stronger crystalline structure in the alloy at certain stress points.
Often revealed as a lattice like pattern inside.

Like this you mean, or is my case just starting to crumble?


This is the back of one of the main bearings, so certainly an area that needs to be strong.

Easiest method of identifying late and late case as you don't have to crawl under the van....
Early
P1020452 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Late
P1020453 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

itchyfeet wrote:Easiest method of identifying late and late case as you don't have to crawl under the van....
Early


Late

So which one us the 'late'??

spec savers...
the bottom one is late as Itchy has typed "late" to make it easier