Club 80-90 Forums

isaune wrote:OK - getting worried now.

A quick update.

The van started first time this morning as usual but, even when the engine was stone cold, the red temperature light started flashing.

The red light is a level sensor first and foremost. It should come on with the ignition, self test and then go out. If the level IN THE HEADER TANK is low the light flashes. If the wire is off the sensor it will also flash.

If the radiator is hot it's not the t/stat.

Have you tried bleeding the engine rather than just the rad ? There's a small screw on top of the t/stat housing, see this pic .. http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... ory_id=118 it's the round knob on the top with the small hose spigot coming off it ... bubbles will run round the engine bay bleed ring and arrive in the header tank.

Ian.

Hi all

Thanks for the advice. I think a thermostat change and drain/flush of the system are good suggestions which I will attempt at the weekend.

I just don't get why the red light starts flashing almost immediately the engine is switched on ie well before it can detect any overheating.

Anyway, lets hope the new stat fixes it.

Thanks

Ian

I would check out the electrical circuit. Good earth and connections?

A little bit more news.

I decided to check again the reservoir in th eengine compartment and found that it took a litre of coolant. That surprised me as I checked that only a few days ago and it was full. Sounds like maybe I've got a leak but I couldn't see any leakages on the ground.

Anyway, I ran the engine again for about 15 minutes and it got hot but the red light did not come on at all.

Which makes me think that it might just be a leak and the light comes on whjen the coolant level is low.


HOWEVER and this is a big HOWEVER, when I took it for a quick 5 mile spin, the temperature still looked high to me - around 75% on gauge, comfortably past the red light (which by the way stayed off the whole journey).

Two things I noticed - not sure if they are clues:-

1) the radiator took a long time tio start getting warm - the engine was hot and the temp gauge up to about half way before I felt any warmth in the radiator. Is that normal? The rad subsequently got hot and the fan kicked in but I was surprised that it took so long.

2) after 15 minutes idling and a 5 mile run with the temp gauge up to 3/4, the coolant in the filler/overflow tank at the back behind the number plate was stone cold. Obviously, coolant from the system is not "overflowing" into that vessel. Again, is that normal?

Sorry to ask such basic questions but, as you can see, I am no mechanic.

Thanks

Ian

Follow a proceedure, stop jumping around from one discovery to the next supposing that this is a fault.
Bleed the system properly like this...

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/bleed ... 29710.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

then after you have done this to the letter come back here with your results

isaune wrote: Which makes me think that it might just be a leak and the light comes on when the coolant level is low.

Correct.

isaune wrote:1) the radiator took a long time to start getting warm - the engine was hot and the temp gauge up to about half way before I felt any warmth in the radiator. Is that normal?

Normal

isaune wrote:2) after 15 minutes idling and a 5 mile run with the temp gauge up to 3/4, the coolant in the filler/overflow tank at the back behind the number plate was stone cold. Obviously, coolant from the system is not "overflowing" into that vessel. Again, is that normal?

Normal

Do as Kev says

isaune wrote: I just don't get why the red light starts flashing almost immediately the engine is switched on ie well before it can detect any overheating.

As I said in my post that's the 'self check' it should flash a few times then go out. If it doesn't it means the level in the HEADER tank is too low or the sender is faulty or the plug is off the sender or the wiring is faulty or the dash is faulty.

One thing at a time ffs.

OK – listen – thank you to everyone for your help and advice.

I can detect you are getting a bit frustrated with my random panics but I am still very grateful for your help.

Ian – I missed your post regarding the flashing light because it was on page 2 of the thread. Actually, it was very helpful to learn that the flashing light indicates low coolant level in the header tank. I had not got that info anywhere else. And when I checked the tank, sure enough, it did need a litre or so – then the light went out.

Also, Ian, I will try the engine bleed aswell. That seems straightforward and thanks for the link to the picture of the part which makes it even easier.

And Kev – thank you very much for your advice and the link to the step by step guide to bleeding the system. I will need to do this anyway (whether or not I fix the overheating problem) as I have learnt that I need 50/50 antifreeze/water mixture and the chap I bought the van from said he had put no antifreeze in. I am assuming (and it appears from the colour/consistency) that there is some residual antifreeze in the van, but certainly not 50/50.

I guess you won’t believe this, but I really DO have a Haynes Manual but I find their pictures and instructions a bit hard to follow. Can I just ask one really stupid basic question?

Where exactly are the screws I use to drain the system? I can’t make head nor tail of the picture in the manual. Also, the manual says they may be rusted up and, if so, just disconnect one of the hoses. If that’s the case, which hose do I disconnect?

Thanks everyone – please be patient with me!!

Ian

isaune wrote: Where exactly are the screws I use to drain the system?

Just disconnect the hoses, give the rad and engine a good flush through with clean water as it will be collecting the parts of the now rusty cooling system components. While the system is drained check for and replace any bad clips and drippy hoses, especially around the engine bay and to/from the front>back plastic pipes.

Buy a 10 litre of Commer Super Coldmaster (blue and cheap) and be prepared to collect it again as you may start to suffer the neglect of the previous muppet

Ian

disconnect the purple hose or the hose to the radiator that comes FROM the engine

Thanks Ian and Kev.

That's lucky as I was going to try to drain it from the hose at the bottom of the radiator!!

One quick question - do I have to refill with antifreeze and DISTILLED water or will tap water be ok?

Thanks again

Ian

It wouldn't hurt to take the hoses off the rad and blow it through with clean water, the small galleries will have all manner of ruty crap in them.

Ian

it is the bottom hose




the one that sticks out at the side bottom hose

Unless you live in a very hard water area tap water will be just fine.

Ian

Radiator Bleed screw is on the top of the later rads.

What is the consequence of running without a thermostat for a few days?