Club 80-90 Forums

Not happy

After finishing my OS rear frame I offered the old window up and I obviously hadn't taken into consideration the shortened original frame due to the rust lost in the rubbers:





It had a slight gap originally and although the glass is secured I am guessing I will need to redo half of the frame to make a more snug fit?

If so can I ask what size gap there should be all around the window? And how you guys would best tackle this now if you were a tit and got yourself in this predicament?

I am thinking 7mm gap all round, I think! Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

Do you not just need to buy a new seal?

Jon.

Jonnyb416 wrote:I am thinking 7mm gap all round, I think! Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

Do you not just need to buy a new seal?

Jon.

I will be getting a new rubber yes but isn't the window drooping too low? I could poke my finger through

Oh yeah sorry I see what you mean.

Lets wait and see what the pros say.

I am sticking with 7mm for now. Is it more than that?

Jon.

yea I recon about 25mm

ygm

Go on then Mike, what is the ideal gap all round between glass and metal?

Jon.

Jonnyb416 wrote:Go on then Mike, what is the ideal gap all round between glass and metal?

Jon.

Using your top quality seals of course Jon.

Well the web is 7mm so you really want a little clearance as you will never make it exact and no needto, so 8mm would be fine and would allow for odd discrepancies here and there, the locking fillet really does close the thing up anyway.
cant speak for others ,seals
mm

So 8mm it is. What's the plans for the 25mm gap? More metal I guess! Ah well keep going the quality of welding looks good to me!
Jon.

Following advice from MM i am going to make a template of what i have in card, then place window into the right angle corner with 8mm gap either side of the corner then mark 8mm around the window.

this is in effect what i then need to add to my surround. Touch wood just 2 sides i need to fix, i will probably cut back past what iv aready done to reduce distortions, weld in a wacking big plate then when solid, measure, re measure, measure again then cut the area out based in the template.

oh and dont forget that you also need to ensure that the windows are all at the same height, so set its height to the one next to it that you havent already ,errr altered
oh and just check the web of the seals you already have and add the 1mm to this figure as yours might have a 6 mm web
mm

metalmick8y wrote:oh and dont forget that you also need to ensure that the windows are all at the same height, so set its height to the one next to it that you havent already ,errr altered
oh and just check the web of the seals you already have and add the 1mm to this figure as yours might have a 6 mm web
mm

Thanks MM, unfortunatly the other window is rotten worse still so no idea of intended hieght. I will sort this one and make other window same probably the easiest bet. Whe you say web do you meen the bit sandwiched between the glass and frame? Is that all thats needed to be catered for or is a few mm in adition to allow fitting?

Now off to figure out arch panel and outer sill fitment

yes thats the bit if its say 7mm you can cut the hole 7mm but its then very tight to fit and can cause other problems so allowing 1mm or thereabouts gives you an easier time of it.
mm

I know its probably a bit late but DONT cover any rust with filler of any sort. Now you have got a welder do the job right or you will only be having to do it again in 12 months. You have been doing ok up to now so why ruin it with filler?

When i refitted panel conversion windows I used a gap of 8mm, but then I also sealed around the window rubbers with a semi hardening adhesive. It dries really rubbery but doesnt stop removal of the window rubbers if they need to come out again.