Club 80-90 Forums

you can take the engine to 2.400cc and 140bhp quite easily and it can still be totally reliable , i built a 1800 engine what showed 100bhp at the wheels just with using standard vw parts a little porting 412 heads and uprated carbs , if you want to see what can be done look on jake rabys excellent type 4 site hes got engines pushing out near on 400bhp or speak to russ fellows you can contact him through central vw what he does not know about type 4 engines is not worth knowing

Hello,

Just got back from a long weekend ski ing.

My CT engined camper (1600 cc) has a max speed in the specs of 103 kph. I'm using higher compression barrels and pistons, (same displacement), mechanical ignition, and everything polished and ported. I was cruising at 115, limited by the RPM of the motor/4 speed box.

Cost Zilch.

If you have fitted a new bottom end, and have good oil pressure, there is no reason why you cannot allow the engine to spin higher than the 4200rpm normal limit. This will give you a greater swept volume (not to be confused with displacement), allowing you to use twin carbs or a multi point fuel injection to greater advantage.

All these mods are done for a few pounds, and a fair deal of your work/time.

Going back to heads, sodium filled valves, as fitted to the porsche 914 2 litre carb motor, or the 1700 fuel injection euro version, will only prove worthwhile in the adapted head. The heads will need careful inspection before use, and almost certainly new valve guides, and at least new exhaust valves.

I am going to do a series of heads soon, as I have the kit..

If your heads are original then you should have the tapped hole for the heat sensor, which would be a good idea if you are going to make your motor work hard.

Keep at it, the first 30 years are the worst

Its a VW thing

Cordialement,

Just an update on the engine build.

I've done it!

Yes I've finally taken the plunge and ordered my new cam, gear and set of new hydraulic lifters.

I've bought a Web Cam 107i camshaft http://www.vwparts.net/WC00-612.html

Now all I have to do is wait for it to arrive in the post. I can't wait to get the case back together. I've given it a good clean inside and out to prepare for the rebuild. I'm also in the process of tracing all the tinware I need, as half of mine was missing and the rest that is there is not in the best condition

Serran: Bonjour. Heads will be the next thing I'll be looking at. I've cleaned mine up so they're cooling properly. I did plan to remove the valves to inspect them until I broke my draper valve compressor on them (They're bloody strong springs, but I guess that'd down to running hydraulic lifters?). I can easily do some head work over the winter and get them ported. I'll look for the heat sensor point as I like to know what's going on with the engines in my vehicles. Where would I get a sensor from? I also need to get sheared tinware screws out of the heads at some point too which'll be interesting (Previous owner, not me BTW)

It's not surprising the poor motor was overheating according to the previous owner as it was running minimal tinware, no spark plug hole 'fillers' and the tinware that was in place was in poor condition and badly fitted. Add to that a failed thermostat! I need a new thermostat as mine was fully expanded.

So much to do....!

Hello,

Watch my videos, you are better off without a thermostat

At £80 a pop for a brass accordeon

You should at least get new exhaust valves, and grind in all the valves and fit valve stem oil seals. (They're not in the gasket set 50 p eack, youll need 8.

You'll need to check also for valve guide wear.

Have fun, work safely,

Cordialement,