Club 80-90 Forums

ok thanks ill have a look tomorrow

i attempted the push rod tube seal with the supervision of a mate

You did put the push-rods back in didn't you?

BOXY wrote:

i attempted the push rod tube seal with the supervision of a mate

You did put the push-rods back in didn't you?

*sniggers*

That's a possible thought, if the inlet valve is opening but the exhaust is not, it may well give compression but obviously won't in any meaningful way fire.

yep checked twice and got me mate back to check lol

As I said before if both rockers aren't making contact there'll be compression but not running. Watch the valve sequence and set the adjuster to pressure plus 1 complete turn (which I believe is this year's preffered setting ?).

Ian

Hello,

BOXY wrote:
You did put the push-rods back in didn't you?

It will be a good idea to make sure that the pushrods have all been properly seated.

With hydraulic tappets or dished solid lifters this can be a real problem.

You will know if something is wrong,because you will have a misfire, and probably spitting
back through the carb(s)
Run engine 3 mins, and drop oil into clean container.
Mark timing notch and diametrically opposite with a tippex.

Take out no 1 plug.

Ignition off, dizzy cap off, out of gear, handbrake on. turn motor with socket in turbine, (often 24 mm), if its too dirty to get the socket on then your engine is mucky.

Turn clockwise until pulley notch is about 11 o clock, the rotor arm should be pointing to no 1 ht lead, put a straw or similar in no 1 plug hole, piston should be at top of travel.

Drop rocker covers, use a cord not a screwdriver


OK, now there will hopefully be just a little play when you rock the rockers on no 1 cylinder,

If it seems really tight, then slacken off a little and readjust, say .3 mm for solid lifters, or 1 turn after contact on hydraulics.

If it seems really loose, and or the set screw seems wound way too far out , then your pushrod is not seated properly.

Lift the pushrod so that it is in the centre of its tube, and it should seat in the centre of its housing.

When you've checked no 1, turn the engine 1/2 turn ANTICLOCKWISE, till the next mark lines up.
Check no 2 cylinder. Then anti clockwise again 1/2 turn,(original timing mark back) and do no 3 cylinder, same again for 4.

Refill with oil and try engine.

If the trouble persists, it may be worth repeating the procedure, (takes me about 10 mins).

Then look at timing and ignition.

I don't know what you set up is, but remember you can buy a svda dizzy and its coil for less than the price of the hall sender unit.

Cordialement,

i will try this and keep updating many thanks

[quote="sarran1955"]If it seems really tight, then slacken off a little and readjust, say .3 mm for solid lifters, or 1 turn after contact on hydraulics.




is this tighten a turn or slacken a turn?

weston_masive wrote:

sarran1955 wrote:If it seems really tight, then slacken off a little and readjust, say .3 mm for solid lifters, or 1 turn after contact on hydraulics.




is this tighten a turn or slacken a turn?

Solid or hydraulic tappets ?

ian

hydraulic

Contact plus 1 turn.

Ian

tighten or slacken?

weston_masive wrote:tighten or slacken?

Contact plus 1 360 degree turn of tightening.

Ian

hi again checked all valve clearances and still no joy running out of options now does anyone know of any specialist's in the somerset area?
Thanks for all of your help much appreciated