Club 80-90 Forums

syklist wrote:OK folks, take a look at this video of the play in the rear wheel bearing and let me know what you think.
http://mistymornings.net/videos/PC292630.mpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Take a look at this, http://campervanculture.com/2011/07/jed ... on-syncro/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

jed

That was my feeling too. It seems too much. I can't find play in the CV joints that I would expect given the amount of noise that is coming from the back end. The noise has also not reduced after adding grease to one of the CV joints.

That is beyond normal.

If you are worried about the outer CV bolts rounding off simply take the whole driveshaft off and do it on a bench. With the shaft out you can easily test the rear bearings for 'grittyness'. If it is the bearings that are gone then you may as well regrease the CVs on both ends of the shaft while you are in there ...

jed the spread wrote:

syklist wrote:OK folks, take a look at this video of the play in the rear wheel bearing and let me know what you think.
http://mistymornings.net/videos/PC292630.mpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Take a look at this, http://campervanculture.com/2011/07/jed ... on-syncro/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Yes seen that. Mine is not that bad. But I'd rather change the wheel bearing if that is causing the noise.

syncropaddy wrote:If you are worried about the outer CV bolts rounding off simply take the whole driveshaft off and do it on a bench. With the shaft out you can easily test the rear bearings for 'grittyness'. If it is the bearings that are gone then you may as well regrease the CVs on both ends of the shaft while you are in there ...

My main worry is doing the CV joints and then discovering that the wheel bearings are what is making the noise. Not that it is a bad idea to clean the CV joints and put new boots on them at the same time as fixing the wheel bearing.

syklist wrote:

jed the spread wrote:

syklist wrote:OK folks, take a look at this video of the play in the rear wheel bearing and let me know what you think.
http://mistymornings.net/videos/PC292630.mpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Take a look at this, http://campervanculture.com/2011/07/jed ... on-syncro/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Yes seen that. Mine is not that bad. But I'd rather change the wheel bearing if that is causing the noise.

When you wiggled the wheel did you have the hand break off? if not try it like that.

jed

jed the spread wrote:
When you wiggled the wheel did you have the hand break off? if not try it like that.

Yes, that was with the handbrake off. With the handbrake on there was no play in the wheel at all.

syklist wrote:

jed the spread wrote:
When you wiggled the wheel did you have the hand break off? if not try it like that.

Yes, that was with the handbrake off. With the handbrake on there was no play in the wheel at all.

jed

jed the spread wrote:

syklist wrote:OK folks, take a look at this video of the play in the rear wheel bearing and let me know what you think.
http://mistymornings.net/videos/PC292630.mpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Take a look at this, http://campervanculture.com/2011/07/jed ... on-syncro/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

jed

good vid Jed - just done mine and fiddled about with the 6 outer drive shaft bolts - wished id watched your vid first

jed the spread wrote:

syklist wrote:OK folks, take a look at this video of the play in the rear wheel bearing and let me know what you think.
http://mistymornings.net/videos/PC292630.mpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Take a look at this, http://campervanculture.com/2011/07/jed ... on-syncro/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Jed, how long is your bit of scaffold pipe? I'm using one about 1.5m long and even standing and bobbing up and down on the end of the pipe doesn't crack the nut. Given that I weigh 80kg, the torque I am applying should be 80x9.81x1.5 which is more than 1100Nm

E D I T: the 46mm surface drive socket is deforming the sides of the nut. That nut is not going to turn any time soon even with a longer bar. I don't have access to an oxy-acetelene set so I think I am going to have to (carefully) angle grind the nut off

You'll have to put on some weight !!

I use a 2 meter bar with a 6 sided impact socket but I also have a good lump hammer and chisel .....

syncropaddy wrote:You'll have to put on some weight !!

I use a 2 meter bar with a 6 sided impact socket but I also have a good lump hammer and chisel .....

It has just move a whole millimetre (just after I ate my lunch ), but then stopped again. Off to get a gas burner and a new driveshaft nut. The 3/4" socket bar is bending under the force.

Thanks for posting that video, I am dealing with the same issue and it definitely helps me understand my next steps.

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syklist wrote:

syncropaddy wrote:You'll have to put on some weight !!

I use a 2 meter bar with a 6 sided impact socket but I also have a good lump hammer and chisel .....

It has just move a whole millimetre (just after I ate my lunch ), but then stopped again. Off to get a gas burner and a new driveshaft nut. The 3/4" socket bar is bending under the force.

Have you definitely removed all of the split pin, there isn't any remaining un-noticed that is now jamming between nut and thread?

I bent and broke my power bar from my local motor factors, so I used Dibner engineering - a 6' scaffolding pipe with the 3/4" adaptor welded into the end - with heat and pies it shifted in the end.