Club 80-90 Forums

Beginning to look more like some sort of red sealant than rust maybe

As it is solid unreal

Probably Red Hermetite ... it's a semi-hardening pipe thread sealant.

Ian

If it is red hermetite then it might be worth pouring in some meths as it has no reaction to petroleum based materials such as wd40 or other lubricants. It might start a reaction with the hermetite as it is alcohol based. Cant think why anyone would have used gasket sealer on a spark plug.

who ever owned it before you might have put thread locker on it for some strange reason,ie the threads might have been knackered were you screw the plug in hope you get it out though,

Just bought some Plus Gas and Methylated spirit to try

Think I may heat it up if I can get a small flamed blow torch .

Thank you for all your comments

I think you could easily drill out the centre then cut carefully (possibly filling a slot) and finish removal by chiseling inwards.
The issue here is getting all the debris out of the cylinder.

I know this is all with hind sight but I've never seen plugs so rotten that they have sheared in this way. Normally the plugs are changed often enough that corrosion is never a problem.
I guess with these long service plugs that last around 40K it's easy to forget them given that your average camper takes 5 - 8 years to do this mileage.....this was never an issue with the bog standard W7DC's as they needed replacing every 12K.

Martin

Red Westie wrote:I think you could easily drill out the centre then cut carefully (possibly filling a slot) and finish removal by chiseling inwards.
The issue here is getting all the debris out of the cylinder.

Martin

Hi Martin

The centre ceramic core was loose and came out cleanly in one piece
The screw/easy out is in hollow core of the
spark plug , but up to now is solid not budging

Red Westie wrote:I think you could easily drill out the centre then cut carefully (possibly filling a slot) and finish removal by chiseling inwards.
The issue here is getting all the debris out of the cylinder.

I know this is all with hind sight but I've never seen plugs so rotten that they have sheared in this way. Normally the plugs are changed often enough that corrosion is never a problem.
I guess with these long service plugs that last around 40K it's easy to forget them given that your average camper takes 5 - 8 years to do this mileage.....this was never an issue with the bog standard W7DC's as they needed replacing every 12K.

Martin

Think this was the plug that never got changed situated under the air filtre , the rest came out fine and no rust on them

You need a small cold chisel....worked around the circumference of the plug, then at an angle to knock the plug anti-clockwise.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-Expert-1 ... B000OGZZAK" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;






Martin

Now you've got the eletrode out safely...........a suggestion...............

Plug the electrode hole with a bolt or something, then get a bit of steel perhaps 2mm thick with a 20mm hole in it. I would think you could MIG weld the spark plug stub to the steel. If you did it in say four stages letting it cool between welds, it shouldn't get too hot. Then while the head is still hot, cool the stub quickly, and turn the stub out with the steel you've welded on.

I've not done it on a spark plug, but it has worked well on all sorts of hopeless cases.

Oh, and I don't claim credit for the idea, I got it off someone on here originally.

Hope this helps.

My mate (welder in Mill Hill) takes off lockable wheel nuts where the owner has lost the keys by welding a bar onto the nut and turning the bar with a welded on socket on the other end. Maybe mig a reasonable sized allen key gently onto the remains of the plug and give that a tap??

Otherwise drilling through the electrode path wider and wider then tapping the edges in as described above.

Good luck, let us know how you get on.

As said the debris in the cylinder from drilling and chiseling warrants the head coming off anyway...
I wouldn't want to cause another problem ...

Ouch that's nasty I would think the only way you are going to get this out is with the head off and on the bench. Once you can get at both sides of the plug you may be able to shift it. Could you wind a bold down the middle from the underside of the head? Once it bit you may be able to keep winding and shift the plug. My guess is that if the plug was bonded in like that the head may be scrap even if you can get the stub out. Not a nice situation to be in, I feel for you, good luck...

Well tried loads of heat its not budging

Head off job

Pity it did not happen 2 months ago would not have wasted £600 on a Complete stainless steel exhaust system from JP Exhausts LTD

Why is it wasted?