Club 80-90 Forums

remove the xtra filter, replace the other one and check the fuel pump esp the pushrod, it's mechanically driven from the engine, if the pushrod or cam are worn ecessively then pump delivery will be poor and at high revs won't be able to keep up with demand. This is a common issue - a new pushrod is only a few quid and the results are instant

Hello all,

Firstly let me apologise for allowing this thread to run out of steam, I managed to injure my back at work a couple of weeks ago, which meant that I couldn't even use a keyboard, never mind work on the van!

Anyway, the first chance I've had to look at the van was this morning, and I've found an intresting fault which I believe is causing the running problem.

I bit difficult to describe this one, I may go outside and take some photos, but I'll do my best to explan:

Near the carb, to the left/front side (stood at back of van) the are some wires going into the carb, I believe the upper one is the bypass cut-off valve (using Haynes as reference) and the lower one appears to be called the "part load duct heater" anyway, when this wire is moved, the van splutters and/or cuts out, once the engine has stopped (but ignition still live) I can hear a relay clicking type sound coming from the carb area, whatever this device does initially appears to be causing my cutting out problem, if I don't touch the wire the van runs fine.

Does it sound likely that this "part load duct heater" could be at fault? In the Haynes book it looks like the wire is part of this item, so I'll have to replace the unit, does anyone have one to sell, or point me in the right direction to get one?

I'll try to take some clear photos and post them ASAP.

yours,

Richard (with working back now)

I've checked the item with the Gower & Lee website - http://www.gowerlee.dircon.co.uk/2E3type.html
and I believe that item 37 (well its wire) is the problem, however I'm not sure that a loose connection to throttle body heater would cause the engine to just cut out, especially when its about 24 degrees outside?
Does anyone believe that I should replace this, or am I looking in the wrong place?

cheers

Rich

Okay folks, completely ignore what I've spouted on about this afternoon. I isolated the heater, and the van stills run fine, until the wires are jiggled about, so it ain't the heater thingy.

Further investigation has found a nasty scotch-lock type affair further down the wiring, and this feeds the cut-off valve, and it is this that causes the clicking. I've remade the connections and the van drives 100%!

And to think, I was going to strip the carb today...

Thanks to everyone for their very helpful suggestions about this problem, I'm just so glad it was summat simple!

Enjoy the rest of your Sunday folks!

Rich

hi i have had the same problem four different mechanics looking at it, they all went down the electrical route lots of new parts put on.as a last resort on my part i tried redex fuel treatment i always thought these a con, but after first tankful there was a noticable difference. after second tankful very little problems but after third tank running perfect try it for the sake of a fiver. it could have saved me a fortune if i hadnt been ignorant of the fact it does work.

Glad you got it sorted Rich

I am always advising against the use of those scotch lock things !

A white "chocky block" is my preference for wiring mods.

Someone mentioned the Tank Vacuming - I think I have the same problem - well maybe anyway.

What's the remedy?

Thanks

Ben

Mrben88 wrote:Someone mentioned the Tank Vacuming - I think I have the same problem - well maybe anyway.

What's the remedy?

Thanks

Ben

When it cuts out, jump out quickly and stick your ear by the petrol cap, whilst you undo it. If you have tank vacuming you will hear a slight inrush of air.

It is not a comon fault on our vans as the tank is vented and the caps never fit tightly anyway.

More likely a blocked filter or the strainer inside the tank.

If the latter, you can prove / dissprove, by bowing back into the tank, which will temporarily blow the crud off the strainer and back into the petrol. Often cures it for a week or 3 ( Or at least it does on Sciroccos / Golfs )

So would that explain only being able to get £30 of petrol into the tank?

Mrben88 wrote:So would that explain only being able to get £30 of petrol into the tank?

Errr - No...

Mrben88 wrote:So would that explain only being able to get £30 of petrol into the tank?

no that;ll be the price of petrol... erm, if you can only get 1/2 the tank capacity in, either its still 1/2 full, or the tank is damaged, blocked brethers wont stop it filling on this type of system, , even if all ofthem are blocked, because the filler overflow would brethe enough to fill the tank...

Trouble is if the petrol guage drops below half then you run out of petrol...

new tank?