I know that list starts with stretch bolts.
Gasket + putting on the right way a round (has been known, once - a topic on here discusses where the tabs should be)
Cleaning block face up
Chasing the block threads out can be a good idea: cleaning grunge out the bottom of the thread holes; making sure they are not oil-filled and thus hydraulic the bolt; lightly lubricating the new bolts and draining them overnight (engine oil)
Correct torqueing and angle tightening procedure (maybe someone can remind us what that actually is for the KY)
A coolant system air block from the old head seems to have taken it past the point of no return, (cant' be sure though) how about coolant system check and water pump.
Worth back-flushing and definitely new coolant (8+8 litres). Don't mess about jacking up to bleed it, just be patient and bleed it properly static, and then again after a grille-off run to full temperature, checking once again after first decent drive (all vital signs OK, plus front bleed screw giving (warm) water straight away, no air).
Check rad fan(s) work (short the thermo switch on rad itself), also check fan(s) do come on when very hot, static for any length of time (is not be assured most 1600s and 1900s do), and often as soon as you start hill-climbing. Not sure whether 1700s shoudl or shouldn't, do or don't
But you do want a reliable and meaningful water temperature gauge working, the level light a wee bit less important, as you should be checking water level visually pretty well after any reasonable run (for a good while, anyway)
Complete oil change?
Of course, and filter, good drain.
One area that you really want confimed on startup, is the oil pressure, if mechanic has a screw in oil-pressure gauge.Look for JX type oil pressures, 0.75 bar min, hot idle; and at least 1 bar per 1000 rpm running when hot (so at least 60 psi, 4 bar at 4,000 cruising)
Glow plugs were relatively new, I think, can they be checked? Should I replace them automatically?
No, unless someones offering as set particularly cheaply
The previous owner had no relay/fuse on the fuse board for coolant level,the light never flashed, although the temp needle moved. I jumped the coolant level fuse plugs (#3 to#6) with a bit of wire,after mishap, as learned on this forum, and the light flashed.
A good idea to get sorted, by as above, visuals will do for now, if not overheating it shouldn't be using water (much, a little use is not uncommon)
Are these relays available still and should I get one? Why would it be missing, is this the previous owners idiocy for not telling me?
No idea...
Gaskets/seals on injection system, how to inspect?
You must put in (or he will) use new heat shields under the injectors and torque them properly. The glow plugs must be torqued properly as well (think about 15 lb-ft, but sealing collars should not be previously pinched)
Should I have a new timing belt, even though the old looks okay?
That's judgement, you either know or not when it was last changed. Some have new belt and automatically new tensioner etc.
Will injectors have been affected by this 'head trauma'?
No, probably not
Will anything else be whacked out by the removal and replacement?
Not necessarily, but exhaust manifold face (trueness) would be worth checking asap, and facing if warped (Wiki)
New exhaust gaskets and hopefully studs and special nuts
You should have checked the bores visually and if poss try to measure any lip or estinate bore-wear (so to gauge life left in that side of the engine) Obvious top ring bore step, an old ring can be used (gap changes), or bore gauges. A new ring can be used with the correct works manual to determine actual bore-size and in/out spec. Estimate glazing (often overheating)
What to look or listen for to see if timing is ok, and is there nothing short of another mechanic to check compression, or will I feel this instantly?
If it start and runs Ok, then timing is likely pretty close; however, it all has to be timed correctly, requiring the right tools. Sounds like he knows what he's doing.
During the 'warming in' period for his work - how should I proceed?
Running in? Don' they just have an on/off button, so... just don't thrash it for hours on end in high-temps straight out of the starting blocks
How he tightens the head is everything,right, so, should he and I have a clear protocol about when to tighten up the bolts after 1000 miles?
Some do, some don't (mine weren't on an AAZ and no problem, twice!) Think book says you do (500 miles..?)
Is this something I can manage down the road that far, myself?
Possibly, don't fret about it though now... get it running first
What oil should i insist on, and what coolant?
The corerct ones, he'll know...
My exhaust system laboured over the white plumes of smoke and dripped a strange mix of diesel and coolant, must this be cleaned out?
No, and its a messy job if you try
If you do, drain it by upending it in several positions, and use petrol to wash it through (in a suitable place
)
As well he towed it a short distance with chains, is there any thing to feel out there?
Doubt it
Good luck, a vital ingredient, plan ahead a bit...
Oh yes, injectors, check the return hoses are all in good condition. Don't buy rubbish replacements
New fuel filter (get that done now?
Make sure all the injector pipe braces are put back the way they were (stiffeners to stop vibration)
