Club 80-90 Forums

Did not get a chance to. I will go home at lunch and take a look. Were you able to see the photos?

I will get the numbers from both

The 2.1 came out of an 86

w_baker76 wrote:The 2.1 came out of an 86

Auto?

2.1 MV or DJ?
the letter suffix is in front of the engine number

manual trans It came from my 86 syncro.

cool, that simplifies things then

Indeed

Ian

your easiest route is change the 2.1 to suit the vans water system - ie make the engine early. The only obstacle then is piping the oil cooler in, just two "T" connections into the water system in the circuit the carb uses, ie constant live and NOT through the thermostat line.

to change the van to late water system is much more complex and involves reshaping the firewall and changing all the engine bay pipework but will make the van easier to get water related spares for.

all the exhaust, water and carb and electrics are interchangeable between 1.9 and all the 2.1 engines except the DF 1.9 which has smaller ports and inlet manifold and carb .

w_baker76 wrote:manual trans It came from my 86 syncro.

Just measure the bottom gearbox mounting studs and compare them to those in your existing engine BEFORE you fit the new engine ... let's just say an issue has arisen in the past

Ian.

Hello to all on this thread, I'm just about to conduct a 1.9DG to 2.1 DJ conversion. I've got a slightly different set up to the one discussed and would like to get a little advice from those that have already gone this route. I hope I don't offend anyone by posting on this thread, it's just that I didn't want to start a new thread, when the topics already running in this one.

From the previous discussions it looks like I'm fortunate as I have a 1987 van, so the coolant pipes don't need fiddling with.

It does seem that everyone has fitted the 1.9 inlet manifold and carb. Can I ask if there's any particular reason why people have not fitted the fuel injection set up that's standard on the engine. I have the option of going one way or the other (I'm buying the engine complete as a turnkey with the 2.1 fuel tank) but are there any pros or cons for each route? Note I'm keeping the 1.9 gear box.

If I do go the carb route I'm assuming that I just need to fit the 1.9 fuel pump to the 2.1, does it go straight in without fiddling?

The engine is out of a G-reg, is there any issue with the clutch, I note that Heritage list a different clutch post May 89? Does anyone know what the difference is?

Planning to do the conversion this weekend, so any thoughts appreciated.

Cheers

Rich

the fuel injection is ok if its going ok, but is a known problem area as they get older......
the carb is more reliable, and gives better low end torque, as well as being much simpler all round.
most of us are runnning on lpg as well so the carb is better.

the mechanical fuel pump from the dg will fit straight in, push rod and spacer , all in.
as will any other dg bits.

You will need to change the water temp switch (2) in the thermostat housing for the one off the DG also, as it does a different job with the injection.

also you need to alter the timing on the 2.1 to DG timing if you use the carb and normal unleaded.

Rich Tea wrote: The engine is out of a G-reg, is there any issue with the clutch,

On a 1990 1.9 the clutch will be a 228mm diameter, same as a 2.1 IIRC there is a heavy duty 228mm clutch (?) I wonder if that's what they mean.

From the previous discussions it looks like I'm fortunate as I have a 1987 van, so the coolant pipes don't need fiddling with.

The 2.1 system has a different thermostat housing which has a spigot on it for the oil cooler, make sure that's on the replacement engine.

Ian

Have the engine, it does have the correct thermostat housing (and not melted like on my DG).

It sounds like using the carb is a straight fwd option, but I'm guessing economy wise, the fuel injection would be better (that's an assuption, please correct me if I'm wrong) is there much in it? Is the fact you're all running on LPG a clue?

I had my mind set on fitting the fuel injection set up, as the engine is turnkey, and it was running when I bought it.

Mocki wrote:the fuel injection is ok if its going ok, but is a known problem area as they get older......

What sort of problems to you have to watch out for with the injection, is there a comon weakness?

Rich Tea wrote:You will need to change the water temp switch (2) in the thermostat housing for the one off the DG also, as it does a different job with the injection.

Which temp switch is it that needs to be changed? The one pointing towards the front of the van, or the one pointing to the left of the van.

I ordered some 1.9 inlet manifold gaskets anyway to keep in reserve, so it's not too late to change my mind (have until Saturday before I start).

Only problem I have now is just as got home and open the van door I noticed that one of the exhast studs appears to be snapped off in the head . What a thing to miss!

yes temp2 is the one facing the side of the van. Its should be blue. you need the one from your dg id you go with the carb.

the lpg thing is nothing to do with mpg of the carb versus the FI, and everything to do with the price per litre and the enviroment.

if anything the carb is better at mpg .

Cheers Mocki bought a new blue temp switch today, didn't want to chance the old one after melting the thermostat housing on my DG.

The Carb route starts to looks more interesting.

My snapped exhaust stud turned out to be a missing exhaust stud, it's just that the gasket had slid across so when I prodded with my screwdriver it wouldn't go in very far. It looks like someone has had the exhaust off before and knackered the threads, I guess they fitted a stud but it must have fallen out.

This necessitated me removing the front pipe from the engine, two of the remaining studs came out ok, on the last one, the nut came off, stud looked ok, so think I'll leave it. Had to remove the elbow and J-pipe anyway as these are corroded, will use the parts off of my DG engine to make one good system.

I'll try to clean the threads up tomorrow with a tap, but it looks quite loose when I quickly tried to screw a bolt in, the other stud on that exhaust port came out ok but the thread looks similarly knackered. Someone had also fitted a stud which was threaded from end to end (no plain section), so it looks they relied on a longer interface with the hole in the head to hold the stud in.

Assuming I can't sort the threads out as well as I'd like, are there any tips to take up the slack? Would thread locking compound work on an exhaust stud (high temp)?, How about Chemical metal (has anyone tried this?)

A proper fix would be a helicoil but, I don't have the kit, could be a route for the future though if other methods don't work.
Cheers

Rich