Club 80-90 Forums

Thank Dave - yup a steep learning curve for sure. That is why I'm here asking the folk who know
If get it it on the road, then I pass your way to paddle the river Dart. So I will be sure to stop in at some point.
I've got a VITO at the moment and its a pain in the ass. Trying to fix anything on it is a world of pain ! I hope the Synco to be alot simpler in the long run - one I have sussed out what makes them tic. I am quite impressed with the TDi Engines I have come across. So am hoping its a good combination.
Somebody has done the hard bit and got it in and working. I expect to have to tidy it up to get it as I'd like.

I spoke with Syncrospares today and as I expected they has met the vehicle before and advised on the transmission system. They are willing to take a look and are only a mile away from the current owner.

I also emailed Aidan as advised and he has replied saying get some gearbox and diff numbers and he can tell me what is what.

It seems there is a great network of helpful specialists and enthusiasts with these vehicles. Thankyou all for making me welcome. It's most encouraging.

Cheers
Rich

Did that van belong to Uncle Tom from Co. Durham before the previous owner - the creased door looks familiar

Well I dunno the history not sure on Uncle Tom. Apparently the PO bought it from Northampton off a windsurfer dude, who traveled extensively to windsurfer competitions, so put the TDi in.

OK - so the thick plottens.

I put the prop back on and tested the VC.
Is Kaputt as they say in Germany.
Jacked up the back, to get the wheels clear, and tried the drive over a 4"x2" -it did

I decided it was inconclusive so fetched some breeze blocks - it tried to climb and stalled before I could come right off the clutch. So my conclusion is the VC is basically locked.

So the spare front diff that came with the Van - supposedly the correct one for the front. Well I was decidedly dubious when I looked at it. Play in one output shaft and when I turned the input the outputs didn't move.
Opened it up to see what was going on and discovered - No Crownwheel ! ?

I was expecting a mashed one atleast, but it is missing. The pinion looks intact to me.
I wonder if they have swapped the crownwheel to the existing front diff ??
How can I check ?
I thought jack up all 4 wheels, put the prop on, mark a horzontal line on the tyres with a bit of chalk. Turn the prop and see if the lines err line up ? after a few revolutions ?
Wha ya reckon ?

Getting the 4WD sorted is top priority for me. Tis the reason I bought a Syncro - the legendary twin diff locks and weight distribution.

Off to smash the piggy bank

Cheers
Rich

Rich
that diff housing has been eaten by a pinion head - if not that one then who knows which - etched numbers on crown and pinions show matched pairs

So if I open up the Diff on the Van, will I see numbers that will tell me what crown and pinion are in it ?
Just need to confirm the ratio to eliminate it from enquiries.
Thanks Aiden your a star - everyone recommends you very highly !
Cheers
Rich

rich if you count the number of teeth on the crownwheel and divide it by the number of teeth on the pinion it will tell you the ratio. 4.86 or 5.43 ect. have you seen this. it may help.

http://www.syncro.ca/tiresize/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


lee

stamped in 2mm high letters will be the ratio ie K734 and etched by hand will be the match number and the pinion height error eg 123 + 45, the match number is also etched on the pinion shaft, but you can't see that easily until stripped, front's visible under VC if you take nose off, but gearbox one is in the middle between 3rd and 4th gears

Well done Richy... glad you got your own Syncro at long last

I know this is a keeper and even with new vc etc etc I still reckon you got a bargain!

Well the spannering has begun...
So Finally got my van back home yesterday. Having spent 3 days splitting and chainsawing logs to make room!
Gave it a good wash and blasted all the scabs off with the pressure washer.
There are a few areas of concern, but on thew whole I'm impressed at how solid it is.
So cab steps are knackered, various seam rust. I put my hand down inside the vent channel at the back of the door, and all feels smooth on the inside ? So hopefully not too bad. Pront panel behind the bumper has a hole in it and lots of stonechips.
The sills have been patched badly at the rear - seems like a pretty structural bit IMO, just where the radius arms connect.
And the front - it has an MOT ? but there is a hole you can loose your fingers in at the bottom of the door post (B post )

I took lots of photo's, but photobucket seems to have been hacked ATM ?

Anyway having washed and photo'd it I tried to reverse it back up the drive but no joy ! Wheel spin - put the rear lock on and got a light on the dash ! Whoopeee. still wouldn't get up the drive tho, kept spinning and slipping sideways towards the woodpile ! Crap tyres I guess ? They are an odd selection which I hadn't clocked before.

So managed to get it parked today and rip the front diff out - Eventually.
Lots of cursing. It looks sooooo easy in Jeds video ! but everything was seized. Driveshafts came off OK. Only 1 hammering in of the torx bit.
Having removed the diff lock actuator on the spare diff - I pulled the pipes off the one on the van - they came off real easy. Well one of them is split.
I'd tried to engage it on the dash and see if the light would come on. I think the switch is shot. I pulled and twisted and twisted and pulled, but it doesn't seem to budge ? just squish a bit.
So Jeds vid whizzes through all this bit, just remove the 3 bolts and the diff drops out. - No chance with mine
So I went for the front "doughnut" mount, and 2 long bolts across the tubular frame at the rear. The 2 rear ones came out ok. But the front nut came off, leaving the bolt seized in the bottom "doughnut" no amount of prizing beating or swearing would budge it. I freed the rear from the frame, but still not enough clearance to move the diff crossmember or get the top doughnut off below the steering rack.
So I removed the rear tube, shearing one bolt. Still no joy, shoved the diff back with my feet while clinging onto the front bumper ! I managed to get the diff back and the top doughnut off, but the bolt was still seized.
I attacked it with the grinder in the end - and the grinder went Phut ! Grrrrr
Out with the hacksaw and eventually the diff was free !
So where can I get new bushes and bolts ? Can't see any on the brickwerks ? Is it off to the VW garage and wait for them to come in ?
Or "Classic parts" - where do i find them ??

So I've split the diff and removed the holy VC.
Think I will try the 120 euro approach and see what happens ?
Seems like there is little to lose and alot to gain. So worth a shot.

So while lying underneath it all looks a bit sorry. I'd like to put some paint on the bits while I've got them off. What do you recommend ? A gloss black is my preference - I know smoothright just chips back off. So something more resilient.

I didn't like the look of the seam between inner and outer wheelarch in the front - the seams look like they have swolen under the underseal, so need to hack back and see whats solid ? Really I need to find some grit/sand/beed or shot to give it all a good blast. I've got a pot and compressor, just need some medium and a big tarp. Any ideas ? I can't see I'm gonna get a wirebrush into all the nooks and crannies.

I'll try and get some pic's up. hopefully you can tell me what you think and how urgent the welding is ?

Cheers for now
Rich

Rich
there's plenty good used bushes and bolts etc.. at the slock up I'll look some out, might not have a front bolt

the front diff lock know is meant to be hooked up to a spring so that you have to turn it 45 degrees till a lug lines up with the slot in the facia. it is so you dont accidentally engage it. a friend visited yesterday in his new reimo 14" 1990 purchase and i was showing him how to use the diff locks and the front knob would turn a little but not pull out properly. i took the facia off ( 4 screws) and sure enough it wasnt engaged with the spring, and the lug then hangs down where it gets blocked by a part of the facia when the facia is refitted. it is a bit of a fiddle re fitting the facia as you have to turn the knob clockwise a bit as you are refitting so that the lug clears the bit that was trapping it before. i know that sounds complicated but you should see what i mean when you have it apart. it is a good idea at the same time to make sure the bulbs all work as they are the clearest indicators of your diff locks engaging. ( the lowest bulb hole comes live when the dashlights are on so you can test the other bulbs in that one)
once refitted properly, the front knob needs a twist clockwise before it will pull out. thats how it should be. it then springs back to a locked position when you dissengage it.

my other tip is for the removal of the tough rubbery grey vw underseal stuff. i have found the best way to remove it is with a rotary wire brush ( i use the knotted ones) on an angle grinder. you do get covered in a fine rubbery dust so wear goggles ( obviously i hope) and a dust mask.