Club 80-90 Forums

Another problem ... Grrr i took off Pulley wheel and heres what i found (JOY)



Theres just the remnants of the old seal ...how do i go about getting that out

And this is what im trying to put in, is it right?



O and just to add another WOE the sump plug nut thingy is rounded off ....

Any takers for scrap metal please PM me

just dig it out
and fit the new one Like I said

Ok il get to digging tomorrow (cant wait )

I also think il take the thing to Kwik Fit to get them to do a oil change cos without a welder to weld a nut onto the sump plug im not going to be able to take that off.


Thanks

Novice in need wrote:Hi all yet another problem discovered an oil leak, ist that bad in respects to amount of oil but certainly enough to want to get it sorted if i can.







I have put in 20/50 Mineral oil to see if that helps where as before i was running on 15/40 Mineral
Basically just wanted to see if anyone may be able to give me more insight into what needs tightening or whether its a gasket failure before i attack the bolts underneath (potential fo making it worse maybe), Please.

Thank you

Similar issue here. Since changing the oil and filter I sprung a leak from the filter housing which I assume I dislodged given that the filter was wrenched on truly). Three bolts hold it to the block and one was weeping oil. This was not an issue as I simply removed the filter, cooler and the "flange" that attaches to the block and gasket sealed the bolts in. This solved this leak though the major one that developed at the same time was from behind the pulley cover. I had to remove the cover which involved taking off the crank pulley (had to drill out one of the Allen bolts for this, pain in the ass), clean the back of the engine thoroughly with break cleaner and run it to temperature until it leaked. It seems to be coming from either the oil pump pulley seal or the crank pulley seal. Either way I'd be happy to replace each seal for good measure but my problem comes from having to take off the timing belt to do either I believe. I'm not experienced with timing belts and may have to pay a packet for it as I'm not confident in my ability to do this without smashing the valves as a result.

Can anyone confirm the ideal oil to use and the possibility that I may have used too thin a replacement oil which would allow it to pass by the seals. If it were this simple to sort I would love it, and what grade oil should I use?

1985 1.6D non turbo

Started to dig today ... just a little then stepped back to think long and hard about my confidence to carry this repair out... i honestly believe even if i dug the old seal out successfully that there just isnt enough room to get a socket wrench in there or hammer to tap the new seal in (am i right in thinking that these seals were fitted by a compressor in the factory?)

Think i may put it back together and live with an oil leak, only til i put it in a garage


Adam 1979 sorry tohear you are having simular probs.. im feeling your pain Grrr what a pain it is. The oil you need fo summer running is 20/50 Mineral get it from Wilkos, theres alot of treads in respects of this on here! Good luck

If you undo the four engine carrier bolts you can lower the engine on a jack enough to tap home the seal,

just make sure you've diconnected the relevant wires and pipes

Erm Jack as in a trolly jack ... i dont have one

Honestly i do think il have to get a good garage that deals with T25's near Luton area as i can get them to do the sump plug aswell.
Iv had a mare today as i couldnt even get the oil filter off (brought a filter wrench from GSF and its just too big to get into the space to get a good enough turn on it as the space is limited)


Sorry to take up your time and not get anywhere Kev ... il be owing you a beer at this rate

I normally hammer a long screwdriver through the filter... then turn it

Tricks of the trade ... il keep that in mind for future, but how do you re tighten the new one? not in the same manner i hope

O by the way do you think this is why my oil breather tower was loosened (not sure if you remember but it was just hand tightened on) so that when oil pressure builds it has a way of escaping instead of threw the crankshaft seal? just a thought as its only since i tigtened it up have i noticed a oil leak.

Novice in need wrote:Tricks of the trade ... il keep that in mind for future, but how do you re tighten the new one? not in the same manner i hope

O by the way do you think this is why my oil breather tower was loosened (not sure if you remember but it was just hand tightened on) so that when oil pressure builds it has a way of escaping instead of threw the crankshaft seal? just a thought as its only since i tigtened it up have i noticed a oil leak.

oil filters are just hand tight
is the crank breather hose ok ? like not kinked or colapsed

yes high crankcase pressures will burst seals

Ok thats good to know otherwise i would hav been trying to tighten the filter good and proper with the wrench.

Crankcase breather pipe Wheres that? if its the pipes coming from the breather tower then they are all good not kinked or collapsed.

So high pressure will break seals but if someone wanted to do a bodge job and hide the fact that a seal is leaking would loosening the oil tower do this by releasing the amount of pressure as such?

Thanks

Only one pipe from the tower
take the tower off make sure its clean

In theory yes you could do that to the tower
but I think it was just old age why the seal failed

what happens if the crank breather hose gets kinked or collapsed ?

You get crank case pressure
which will damage seals

Oil pressure/crankcase pressure if it is not down to breather hose or tower what other possible causes could increase the pressure?