Club 80-90 Forums

Just read your post about the high revs. Before messing with the mixture screw or anything else you might want to try unscrewing the idle speed screw to bring the revs down. May solve your problem ...

Make sure its fully warmed up before you adjust it though

Hi im no expert by any means however as i understand it you have removed the idle cut off solenoid which in turn has created your over running problems of the engine when the ignition is switched off...

Double check that the cut off solenoid which is intended to stop over running of the engine is connected back properly and working as it should (switch ignition on and pull the plug out of the solenoid to see if an audiable click is heard) check the earth connection to the carb is ok aswell. Has the rubber seal come off the solenoid when you took it out? possible air leak.

Basically do yourself a favour and double check any areas which you have removed before adjusting the mixture screw!

hope this helps

Shaundon wrote:Just read your post about the high revs. Before messing with the mixture screw or anything else you might want to try unscrewing the idle speed screw to bring the revs down. May solve your problem ...

Make sure its fully warmed up before you adjust it though

Thought about that but it doesnt tend to high idle on start up but do a few mile and its really high revs again??? bizarre.

high idle revs suggest a weak mixture.
either from a leak on the inlet side, or poor settings, which can only be accurately reset with a gas analyser.

Sorry i confused the thread before i should learn to read the full thread first

Well as Kev states air leak would cause high revs or as another option i have encountered acceleration cable possibly sticking?
In my case the pedal mechanism/lever was bent and not fully returning to its full upright position.

So i was in a traffic jam today in sheffield at rush hour!

Not the most fun thing you can do in the best of vechicles but it was paticully bad in the bad idling T25! As the engine was getting hotter it was reving higher and because it was reving higher it was getting hotter! Luckly i managed to get back into the countryside before it got really bad! Thankfully my fan kept on kicking in and was working hard getting it cool again!

As anyone else come across this problem?

Thanks

As you well know things that get hot, expand... so if there was a small leak, heat would make it bigger, bigger leak means more air, more air means faster idle

just my thoughts.

kevtherev wrote:As you well know things that get hot, expand... so if there was a small leak, heat would make it bigger, bigger leak means more air, more air means faster idle

just my thoughts.

This leak being in the vacuum pipes somewhere?

Thanks

anywhere where on the inlet side

Hi,

Not sure if this is of any help but see if Kev agrees? I found that where the brake servo hose attached the manifold that there was a air leak and it was worse when engine heated up due to the expansion of the manifold. (when hot carefully using pliers give the protruding pipe from manifold a wiggle/twist to see if it moves).

Hope this provides a possibility to try

I agree
the servo vacuum hose is well documented as a leaker.

I filled mine with water and it did the flowers good

one other thing is the choke flap, make sure it's operating as per the book

So ive stripped the carb cleaned it out and replaced most of the things that comes with the repair kit from Brickwerks no stuck jets etc. Also replaced the HT leads and plugs with correct gap. Replaced the air filter and cleaned all that out. Replaced all the vacuum hoses and bolted the air ducting in better. And still high revs!! so annoying! i've unscrewed the idle screw all the way it came down but not enough....

Stuck please help....

Does it still rev high if you disconnect the throttle cable from the carb?

No but when i remove the vacuum pipe from the item thats attached to the side of the distributor cap the engine returns to normal idle speed but put it back on and it revs high again??