Club 80-90 Forums

With respect Pete that will do F*ck all and bend miles more than the thick bar that bent next to it. If your going to whack it full on, on rocks those tiny little bars wont do any more exept get pushed through the gearbox casing. Then again I dont know that much about things but in this case I am quite sure how and where my van needs protecting abit more through my recent driving experiences, something needs to go over the cross bar as it bends to easy. I dont want to cause a tsunami effect and my gearbox get a blast from floating debris causing loss of life too...

I need at least to try something substantial out as I dont fancy shelling out for another new gearbox to often and I cant calm down with the other lads egging me on

jed

Now, before we go on. That cradle has been around for a long while. It's done the rock at SP, Chapel Gate etc.
It is not just tubes welded together, it is solid 3/4" rebar.

Apart from all of that, what I am concerned is with the heat issue, entrapment = heat.
Off road they may be the business, but you gotta drive onroad first to get there, what says, 100 mile there, weekend playing, 100 mile home, what's happened to the mud, clay,stones etc that you've collected? Do you really clean it all down properly afterwards?

Where is the heat going when you have enclosed it within sheet protection?

Fair comment but if it has bashed the thick bit of metal right in (as seen on my video and on Pauls van) on the engine bars into my gearbox those thin bits are not going to do much on the bit of lane we drove up. Its the same rock we did the engine bash test on going down last year seen here but we have never seen anyone drive up it so we had ago, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ywga883aTAM" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Believe me mate I would want it to work I just dont think it would in this case, I would be chuffed to bits if it did

jed

Then why not use rivnuts in the main engine tray frames and attach the ally plate when arriving at off-road sections and remove (easily) before 100 mile trip home?

Not ideal, but... ?

I think those bars look like they'd spread load across anything they get bent onto enough to support the vehicle rather than crack through the gbox casing. Ideally any bars would be longitudinal rather than lateral, but that means even longer and thus deeper/heavier/stronger.

Cooling's grim enough already, any permanent ally plate should ideally have assorted 1 1/2" to 2 1/2" deep swaged holes for aeroeli ventufibrillation relief, nay?

Good points well made by all. I figured that those six holes of 1 3/4 each would be enough to lose any pebbles or mud and allow a decent bit of airflow. Since I intend to change the oil every year, instead of the previous never in 25 years, I reckon it's better than a smashed casing if I get all over-excited or caught out by an exposed rock on a Landy-deep rutted track.
We can't lift that high or go for 33 x 16's and I'm not going to try either, so this is my solution. Maybe I'll knock up a quick-fit tarmac-duty air scoop for peace of mind, based on Pete's observations.
Let's see what results eh?

I really should get this data logger set up and recording some info shouldnt i..

Maybe I will have a butchers at it this weekend..

Ideal trip ahead to see whats going on.. Just got to put the sycnro back together first......

Maybe we should try being a bit less lazy and take the protection off on a long run, then spend 1/4 hour fitting before and after playtime?
Either that or be a bit more careful with these old wagons? Not easy if the trails have previously been excavated by a Solihull V8 beast

I'll pull my finger out and do some data logging...
Depending on how much thermocouple wire I have I think the logger ca do 12 channels.. more than enough to monitor output bearings, nose bearing, heat soak from engine etc etc, dont think I will be able to measure direct oil temps though.. so I''ll glue TC to case and stick a bit of insulation over it to minimise cooling effect..

What the hell are you going on about

jed

So lets get to the nitty gritty.... who's guna make me a diesel one to protect my recon box upon its return?

Gimme the overall dimensions and I'll see if I've got enough Chobham armour left to make it
You decide how it's going to be fixed and then weld on or rivnut your rails accordingly.

PC52 wrote: Have you considered how much heat your trapping in?
How are you going to shed the stones and gravel easily? (jed's vid, evidence of debris collection)

Now, there was a particular van that went to Syncro 25 with wads of protection on and then the owner had loads of spanner moments due to the heat and it had only been on the road getting there.
You need Air flow

There were TWO particular vans that went to Syncro25 with wads of protection, identical wads of protection in fact cuz I had them made!! One had 'loads of spanner moments' because its owner wanted spanner moments!! The other syncro, mine, is fine thank you. No gravel or stones catching as there is plenty of foam rubber between the shield and the transmission. There is plenty of airflow around the box and front diff. The shields do not hinder this at all. No overheating and plenty of protection ..... ideal. Someone even said that the front diff shield would effect the engine cooling .....

What's the deepest wading and/or mud your van has been through with the protection on Andrew?

His van saw mud once from about 100 feet.

I'm still with Andrew on this one. I always thought that the transaxle casing was heavily ribbed for strength, not to cool the oil. Ever driven an older Jaguar, like an E type or XJS? The 'box is famous for cooking the driver's leg even in the middle of winter
The transmisson of any car gets hot in use, the issue here is duty cycle. Heavy loads (Westys on tour), excessive torque input and multiplication (V6/TDi syncros) and giving it the beans in G (muddy playtime) all push the transmission up it's duty cycle curve, necessitating more frequent oil changes before it degrades excessively and reduced service life between rebuilds.
Look under front of any moderately modern car and you will find that they all have undertrays for aerodynamics and noise suppression; also very enclosed gearboxes* usually with the battery tray and fluid reservoirs positioned right over the 'box to make use of the volume. *This is the case whether front or rear (four) wheel drive.
This is something that particularly interests me for our quicker and lower buses might just pick up a few mpg and lose some dB in the cabin...