Club 80-90 Forums

yeah im not that bothered either-was just concerned that it might get worse, at present she always starts eventually and really well when cold.

blankv

If the root of the problem is the starter motor bush, eventually the wear might mean the pinion doesn't engage the flywheel fully. You'll be able tell when this has happened by the loud, grinding, clattering noise and the failure of the engine to turn over.

thanks, i'll play it by ear so to speak, our t25 is an automatic and it looks like buying a replacement starter motor and bush could be a bit tricky, all the ones i looked at online specifically say that they are not for autos...?? i found one i think it was on brickwerks but it was considerably pricier that the ones for manual transmission.


any suggestions?

cheers

If you were to fill in your profile so we know where you are.One of us auto owners might have a spare.You could try Or you can buy one from here..http://www.justkampers.com/shop/starter ... 10202.html Oh yes.So you know.The auto starter does not have a bush...

fab! i will get my detail filled in..thats interesting regarding the bush,..everyday is a school day

could the starter may be just on its way out then?....had another gander at the connections today and maybe a clean wouldnt go a miss.

our t25 is an automatic

Won't be the bush then.

well thats that eliminated then....will do a better inspection on all the connections..

cheers

Mocki wrote:ok...... it IS common.... there are a few reasons.....

1.the battery is a stupid long way from the starter, so voltage drop is a problem, specially with 20 year old cable
2.the "earth" for the starter is via the gearbox nose, one single "earth" lead..... age related corrosion probs
3. the bushing in the gearbox bellhousing may need replacing.
4. the starter may be getting past its best
5. the ignition timing maybe a little too far advanced
6. the battery "earth lead" maybe past its best of not connecting well....

remember... dirty connections get HOT, turning electric into heat uses lots of power..

+1
one of the above is my bet..........number 6 can appear fine but that connection point is prone to corrosion at the chasssis thread!

What you need to appreciate is the very high amperage draw from a starter motor especially from cold. On petrol engines thats anything between 140 to 175 amps (and considerably higher on a Diesel and the reason for the starter battery being located in the engine bay)
Compare this to say 10 amps demanded by FULL BEAM....then you realise just what a massive current is trying to flow.
It's not good enough that connections look OK, they have to be spotlessly clean, free from corrosion and very tight to carry this amount of current without significant voltage drop.
My advice would be to connect a volt meter across that battery and take a voltage measurement whilst the engine is being started.
The minimum cranking voltage after 15 seconds should be no less than 9.6 volts, and to be honest that is borderline, ideally it needs to be holding it's voltage over 10 volts after 15 seconds which indicates a good battery.
Make sure the battery is charged over night first.

Martin

Hi Folks, i spent the weekend cleaning all the connections on the starter and the earth cable, brushed them all back to the bare metal and greased them up. Van seems to be starting better after a run.

A big thanks to you guys
.................................now on to the other issues!!! lol

cheers

B