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Posted: 24 Jul 2006, 21:56
by HarryMann
ground it completely flush, then Centre punch, drilled out with 3mm, 5mm, then 6.8mm drills, pocked out what was left with a small screwdriver.

Top job then! I sometimes skip the first bit, or just file it flat, so I can better judge if I'm going right down the centre with the first small drill. Depends how much of the broken bit is left.

Re: tailpipe

Posted: 25 Jul 2006, 08:35
by Ian Hulley
angry vanagon wrote:
angry vanagon wrote:standard steel bolts come out dead easy if you use brass nuts as should be used on all exhaust components

i stand corrected

BUT the M8 stainless ones will still have a 13mm head on them after a couple of years,and if you use a copper (or 'Aerotype') locking nut it'll come off double easy next time. :wink: AND some silencers don't have the threaded flanges ... GSF 1.9 petrol ones don't.

Cheers,Ian.

Re: tailpipe

Posted: 25 Jul 2006, 14:14
by T2Andy
Ian Hulley wrote:
BUT the M8 stainless ones will still have a 13mm head on them after a couple of years,and if you use a copper (or 'Aerotype') locking nut it'll come off double easy next time. :wink: AND some silencers don't have the threaded flanges ... GSF 1.9 petrol ones don't.

Cheers,Ian.

The stainless ones I have look nice as well :)

Non threaded flange and nuts would be so much easier if even if corroded up, just cut the heads of and out they come.

Posted: 25 Jul 2006, 15:34
by HarryMann
Non threaded flange and nuts

Non-comprehende :oops:

Posted: 26 Jul 2006, 14:50
by T2Andy
:) A Silencer with no threads in the flange so you use Nuts & Bolts :)

Posted: 26 Jul 2006, 15:39
by HarryMann
Ah I see! As in just running a drill through it